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Tips on wheel/tire/drop configuration for a 2013 V8V
I don't know much about cars so please have mercy.
I have a black 2013 V8 Vantage with Sports Package (photo below) that is my daily driver. I went to a reputable shop today and was given advice, but I'd like to cross reference the experts on here before I pull the trigger on the modifications. Please note, I'm not an aggressive driver by any means and do not track my car. My objective of these modifications below are for increasing aesthetics without compromising ride quality.
My Goals:
1. Install 20" HRE P101 wheels (photo below), with Front Offset on 9" is ET +40 & Rear Offset on 11" is ET +52 (Thanks to DoubleLow7 for his photos/configurations)
2. Install Michelin Pilot Super Sports 255/30 Front & 305/25 Rear
3. Lower my Vantage to reduce the gap (to a reasonable level)
4. Maximize wheel/tire size without any rubbing or RISK of rubbing
5. Gain an aggressive concave on the wheels
6. Replace OEM brake pads with Porterfield R4S's for front/rear to reduce/eliminate the wretched OEM brake dust/squeal (Thanks to KarlFranz for the advice)
My Questions:
1. I was recommended to stay with 19" wheels instead of 20" wheels as the configuration I want above will most likely end up with a bent wheel from a small pothole. Is this true?
2. I was told that the rear aspect ratio of 25 is too low for the same reason for above . . . a bent wheel is inevitable. He mentioned that the minimum aspect ratio he recommends for the front and rear is 30. Do you agree?
3. Coilovers or springs? The "correct" way to lower my car is to use coilovers, not springs? If this is true, why does it seem like so many users in this group go with the springs rather than coilovers?
4. Which coilovers do you recommend? I'm not an aggressive driver but I would like a comfortable ride with good dampening and adjustable height. The shop owner I met with was pushing KW on me (the reasoning in #6)
5. What is the maximum drop you would recommend for the 2013 V8V? The shop owner said 2" would be the most he would do, else I would bottom out frequently.
6. I have bottomed out on a steep driveway (4 times in two years) even while approaching it at a sharp angle with the OEM stance settings. I am concerned of the damage that would occur if I lowered my car 1.75-2", given I scraped even at normal settings. He recommended I add a hydraulic lift system in the front which would raise/lower my nose up to 1.5" in about 2 seconds with a simple push of a button (installed in the ashtray in the center console). The hydraulic system would be installed under the hood and would cost an additional $2,000 on top of the cost of the coilovers. He told me I should go with KW as they have a coilover set that includes the hydraulic system. Is this a waste of money?
7. I am planning to order the Porterfield R4S's and have the shop install them but the shop owner notified me that I would have to replace the brake sensors too . . . which seemed odd. The brake sensors didn't go off yet as I still have life in the front/rear pads. I just want to get rid of the OEM brake dust/squeal ASAP. I was told that I need to replace brake sensors every time I replace the brake pads. Is this true or is the shop owner just trying to milk me?
8. What are your thoughts on the configuration above in "My Goals"? Will this work?
9. Any additional comments/tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much in advance. I envy the members in this forum for the amount of knowledge of Aston Martins and cars in general. Thanks for spreading the education to newbies like me as I read this forum daily and learn something new each time. You guys rock!
Last edited by mantonkroh; Nov 13, 2015 at 04:11 AM.
My Goals:
1. Install 20" HRE P101 wheels (photo below), with Front Offset on 9" is ET +40 & Rear Offset on 11" is ET +52 (Thanks to DoubleLow7 for his photos/configurations)
I'd only recommend going this aggressive for a show car.
2. Install Michelin Pilot Super Sports 255/30 Front & 305/25 Rear
Same as above. Excellent tires, but the thin sidewalls worry me.
3. Lower my Vantage to reduce the gap (to a reasonable level)
Definitely lower it, but see my comments on Question 3 below.
4. Maximize wheel/tire size without any rubbing or RISK of rubbing
This is easy to do so long as you don't go silly aggressive on offsets and drop.
5. Gain an aggressive concave on the wheels
Depends entirely on the wheels, should be doable and look good.
6. Replace OEM brake pads with Porterfield R4S's for front/rear to reduce/eliminate the wretched OEM brake dust/squeal (Thanks to KarlFranz for the advice)
They do exactly what KF said. Since you're not tracking the car, these are a good option.
My Questions:
1. I was recommended to stay with 19" wheels instead of 20" wheels as the configuration I want above will most likely end up with a bent wheel from a small pothole. Is this true?
I've dented 19" wheels with /40 sidewalls hitting potholes (two different times). 20" wheels with /30 sidewalls is going to be more prone to damage. You're also reducing ride quality by having a thinner sidewall.
2. I was told that the rear aspect ratio of 25 is too low for the same reason for above . . . a bent wheel is inevitable. He mentioned that the minimum aspect ratio he recommends for the front and rear is 30. Do you agree?
It's your choice if you want to risk it. Rear wheels are less prone to damage. Personally, I like a meaty looking tire (look at any race car and you'll see a thick tire), and think thin sidewalls look silly...
3. Coilovers or springs? The "correct" way to lower my car is to use coilovers, not springs? If this is true, why does it seem like so many users in this group go with the springs rather than coilovers?
Most people go with springs because it's far cheaper and the benefit isn't there for the extra expense. Plus, there really aren't that many options available for us. I'm running H&R springs on my car with the standard struts. Some people have complained of a "pogo" effect when pairing these springs with the sport pack struts. VelocityAP made a set of springs that are meant to better pair with those struts. The H&R springs are a more drastic drop (I scrape more than I care to admit) and the VelocityAP springs are more conservative but still lower the car.
Coilovers aren't necessarily "correct" compared to springs. They're probably better because the strut and spring are designed to work together rather than a spring being designed for the strut after the fact. However, if the spring is properly designed, there's nothing wrong with opting for those rather than coilovers. It also depends on how you use your car. I'll be swapping my OEM struts/H&R springs combo for actual coilovers in the future because I track my car and want the extra performance.
4. Which coilovers do you recommend? I'm not an aggressive driver but I would like a comfortable ride with good dampening and adjustable height. The shop owner I met with was pushing KW on me (the reasoning in #6)
There aren't many options... The only ones I can think of off the top of my head are from KW and Nitron.
5. What is the maximum drop you would recommend for the 2013 V8V? The shop owner said 2" would be the most he would do, else I would bottom out frequently.
I think I'm at a 1.5" drop and that's too low for most people. Any lower and I don't think my car would be usable.
6. I have bottomed out on a steep driveway (4 times in two years) even while approaching it at a sharp angle with the OEM stance settings. I am concerned of the damage that would occur if I lowered my car 1.75-2", given I scraped even at normal settings. He recommended I add a hydraulic lift system in the front which would raise/lower my nose up to 1.5" in about 2 seconds with a simple push of a button (installed in the ashtray in the center console). The hydraulic system would be installed under the hood and would cost an additional $2,000 on top of the cost of the coilovers. He told me I should go with KW as they have a coilover set that includes the hydraulic system. Is this a waste of money?
I wish my car had one. So long as it's reliable and well-integrated, I don't see why not.
7. I am planning to order the Porterfield R4S's and have the shop install them but the shop owner notified me that I would have to replace the brake sensors too . . . which seemed odd. The brake sensors didn't go off yet as I still have life in the front/rear pads. I just want to get rid of the OEM brake dust/squeal ASAP. I was told that I need to replace brake sensors every time I replace the brake pads. Is this true or is the shop owner just trying to milk me?
Those are a great street pad. So long as you don't track the car, they should be good for you. And they're very quiet with very, very little dust.
No, you do not need to replace the sensors. In fact, you don't even need to use them. Not having them hooked up with not give any errors or warnings. I haven't used mine since buying my car 4 years ago.
8. What are your thoughts on the configuration above in "My Goals"? Will this work?
Posted in the My Goals section.
9. Any additional comments/tips/advice is greatly appreciated.
Your goals are entirely based on your own taste. Personally, I'm not a fan of 20" wheels on a V8V. It's often done for people that want to show off their car and say they've got 20's. But in practice, it's really taking a risk and reducing the usability and drivability of your car. Same thing with slamming it to the ground. Your car is going to get plenty of attention and admiration, there's no reason to go overboard with it. Just my two cents.
Thanks so much in advance. I envy the members in this forum for the amount of knowledge of Aston Martins and cars in general. Thanks for spreading the education to newbies like me as I read this forum daily and learn something new each time. You guys rock!
I would use the same offsets you propose, but with an 8-1/2 and a 10-1/2 wheel instead. This will bring them in a little. Instead of lowering the car, go up one aspect ratio, which will have several benefits: it will reduce the gap, will give you a little more ground clearance, and give you a better ride.
telum01 and XJRS both have good points. Porterfields work great ... no sensor issue; reuse the old. Brake pad question solved.
I'll say that I have no problems with the look of 20s and like the idea myself. So +1 on the 20"rim votes if its for looks. (Just a data point... taller sidewalls give the driver a little more feedback and warning when breaking loose in a corner... thus F1 has tall tires, etc. But if you aren't pushing the car hard on a track.. .its not a big issue. ) I too DD mycar so it has to have 'some' utility. My personal fear of lowering is not scraping the front as much as it is bottoming out 'in the middle' over speed bumps or even some parking garage ramps. I only clear some by maybe 1/2". I have stopped and looked even in my neighborhood at the speed bumps and its close. I can just imagine teeter-totering the car in a busy parking garage... Yuck!
On other cars I have had good luck with changing wheel offsets to push the tire face out and it greatly reduces the 'perceived' wheel gap without actually lowering the car. (a lot of V8V owners do the spacers for that reason) I like XJRS's idea of a slightly higher sidewall on the 20" rim. Maybe works out to similar sidewall height you have now? But would close the wheel gap by 1/2" ... And increase clearance. Probably little speedo difference.
If you can swing it, the actuated KWs sound like the hot ticket. I understand your question set as I don't think there is a perfect prescription out there that I have seen yet.. I'll subscribe to this and see what else comes in. Good luck!
Last edited by RolexDaytona1; Nov 13, 2015 at 11:36 AM.
I would do 20's all day long as long as they're forged. I'd also urge you to look at other brand wheels like Brixton Forged or something else. HRE's are very nice, just a bit more name tax than other brands IMO.
Here's what my car looks like with H&R springs, slightly larger tires (0.3" taller in front, 0.4" taller in rear), and custom wheels (same width and diameter as OEM 19" 7-spoke wheels, but with a more aggressive offset). The taller tires definitely help me get over speed bumps with less risk of scraping in the middle. Yes, I've noticed lol.
It doesn't take much to improve the stance on these cars.
Thank you so much for the excellent advice! You all bring up great points and ideas. The idea of increasing the aspect ratio a bit does make sense. Thanks for the insight on the brake sensors. I knew something didn't sound right when they were telling me I need to purchase new sensors when the alert hasn't even come up yet. You guys are awesome and anyone who reads this, feel free to provide your input as I will be reading those suggestions too. Plus, I'm sure many others are facing the same dilemma I'm in. I looked on other threads in this forum and this topic is lightly covered in separate postings, so I hope this helps due to the consolidation of concerns. I know I've learned a lot from the feedback already and thank you for the help!
I have KW coilovers with the KW universal lift system on the fronts only. I have the coilovers set towards a softer ride. It is more comfortable on rough roads but it still offers great control when pushing. I did set it to a stiffer setting at Laguna Seca.
I couldn't find a location under the hood that was large enough for the hydraulic reservoir and pump. It is very compact but needs to be kept level and accessible to check the fluid level. I have mine tucked in the trunk area on the left side alcove. I was able to run the hydraulic lines and electrical wires without drilling any holes.
KW told me that the AM coilovers and the universal lift kit were never designed to be used together and the coilovers would have to be modified. Modifying the fronts were easy. It required cutting the smaller helper springs to accommodate the thickness of the lift kit. It may be impossible to do the rears because the lift kit will not slide over the rebound adjustment **** which is mounted directly on the piston rod.
The coilover set is great because it allows the ride to be modified, something that the earlier cars did not have.
Great points from everyone. I went with a good 20" wheel. They handle perfect and fill the gap a little better. The APVelocity progressive springs drop the vehicle 7/8 of an inch. Not a big drop but enough to create a nice stance, and a good ride. Keep us posted on what you are doing.
Vcollection and RSC are both selling 1.25" lowering springs, how good are they? 1.25" seems quite low compared to H&R's .75"
@telum01: Nice wheels you have there, do you mind sharing the brand/specs?
The H&R springs are more than a .75" drop. I think that's a general number used in boilerplate promo material for an "average" drop from their springs for all cars.
There's a thread somewhere, called New Wheel Option, it's in the FAQ, too. All the info is there.
I kept them OEM width and diameter because I didn't want to add weight by going to a larger wheel and tire package. That said, my next set will be +0.5" wider on each wheel.
For performance, sticking with those sizes did work. I dropped a few pounds per corner. Those weights are in my Time To Get Nimble thread.
Sorry I don't have links, I'm posting from my phone.
I have just preformed this on my V8VS so you can learn from my mistakes.
Do not use the H&R springs on the Vanatge S as they ruin the handling dynamics of the car when matched with the sport pack dampers. I am now researching Coilover options from Nitron and Motion Control. VelocityAP should have new springs custom tailored for the Vantage S. If you want springs only I suggest you talk to Stuart as he will not do you wrong.
The HRE are beautiful in design but I would certainly recommend other brands like Brixton, Forgeline, Etc. PM me if you desire further details.
I am not sure I would go with 20's again. The Michelins were unobtainable in the 20 inch size I needed and are still hard to come by... to my knowledge currently the 19s Michelins are easier to source. I feel the 20's are more of a show car approach and 19's are more functional but will still provide a good look. I am having some 19's built very soon.
I am very satisfied with the Porterfield pads but the fitment of the sensors is not spot on.. That is not an issue for me as I don't really need that functionality so some were just zip tied and tucked away so a code would not be sent.
Have fun modifying your Vantage!
Last edited by Montana107; Nov 14, 2015 at 09:01 AM.
I have just preformed this on my V8VS so you can learn from my mistakes.
Do not use the H&R springs on the Vanatge S as they ruin the handling dynamics of the car when matched with the sport pack dampers. I am now researching Coilover options from Nitron and Motion Control. VelocityAP should have new springs custom tailored for the Vantage S. If you want springs only I suggest you talk to Stuart as he will not do you wrong.
The HRE are beautiful in design but I would certainly recommend other brands like Brixton, Forgeline, Etc. PM me if you desire further details.
I am not sure I would go with 20's again. The Michelins were unobtainable in the 20 inch size I needed and are still hard to come by... to my knowledge currently the 19s Michelins are easier to source. I feel the 20's are more of a show car approach and 19's are more functional but will still provide a good look. I am having some 19's built very soon.
I am very satisfied with the Porterfield pads but the fitment of the sensors is not spot on.. That is not an issue for me as I don't really need that functionality so some were just zip tied and tucked away so a code would not be sent.
Have fun modifying your Vantage!
What a beautiful car! I love your setup! Thanks for the input Montana107. I see you went with the HRE P40S? Beautiful! I don't have a Vantage S, but I have the sports pack and I will be going with full coilovers.
Q: Why wouldn't you go with 20" again? Is it only due to tire availability?
Q: If you don't mind, can you post your specs on the configurations? Offsets, how much of a drop, what brand and aspect ratio on tires, etc.
