Is this score to DMLT pump?
It's for Range Rover too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400725050420?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

If it fits a ranger rover sport, it should fit. It's a generic part from Bosch. The Aston one is highly priced because it comes with the filter and bracket assembly, you can't buy just the pump from Aston.

 

Ok I replaced the DMTL pump, in parallel I also replaced battery in alarm sounder module with VARTA 6V rechargeable battery.


After replacing the DMTL module (which BTW is exact same module as one which can fit BMW 750Li 2006 and many other bmws, for $ 62 shipped form ebay, see link above, all numbers on module are identical, connections are exactly same)


Emmission service required error persists


I am going to try put DMTL module I removed form AM in to my BMW and see if it throws the error and then I will remove New module form AM and put it in the BMW to see if error goes away in BMW.


Any other suggestions?


After replacing battery on sounder module alarm service required error is still there and my AM tech told me it needs to be erased with AMDS. But my question is If its working properly with new battery I Installed should I be able to trigger alarm somehow or it wont even trigger the alarm until error code has been removed.

 

The battery in the alarm is a backup battery for if the vehicle is low on voltage it can still function and be active. Yes the alarm code does store, sometimes it does clear after a couple ignition cycles..but there's no way to force the alarm test in the system for the CEM to disable the requested msg of Alarm Service...to force that msg off is a DTC clear with a dealer AMDS...just like you tech mentioned.


The DMTL..well, like I mentioned you can jump the gun and replace the DMTL pump or bring to the dealer to diagnose and verify its the pump is indeed faulty....The system will take over 10 hrs to run full DMTL drive cycle and fuel is needed between 15%-85%, no lower and no higher...did you clear the codes? What was the fuel level in the tank? How long after did it take for the light to come back on?


If all the above was done right and pump is now new...I'd bring it to the dealer so they can diagnose the system circuits (like I had mentioned earlier)..at this point you would need access to the wiring diagrams+AMDS and have a good understanding of how the evap system works and runs it's tests for the evap leak system.

 

Thanks Irish.
After replacing the DMTL module, I disconnected battery, waited few seconds , reconnected the battery, emission error went away. Turned off the car, restarted the car and with in few seconds I got the error message again.


I will check the fuel level and adjust.


Irish07 when you say it takes 10 hrs to complete DMTL drive cycle, that means I have to drive around off and on for 10 hrs, does car have to be running for total 10 hours or what it means?


Is it worth trying to use a different gas tank cap?


Also do I understand it correct that until AMDS erases alarm service required code I can not even trigger alarm module to make sound/noise even if its charged?


Thanks for you input

 

This isn't a first Gen OBDII system where you can disconnect the battery for a X amount of time and clear every fault code.. That's not going to work, especially when it's emissions related. The code has to be cleared with a scanner (usually the brand factory scanner, a dealer tool..in this case it's called AMDS). 99.9999999999% of aftermarket scanners are for generic P codes, that means it will scan a fault code in relation to Engine or Transmission that is generic among all brands of a passenger motor vehicle(Generic is usually codes that will affect emissions andin result turn on the MIL). Then we have the "brand" codes, which most generic scanners don't register, some can read them and some can't (these codes sometimes don't even turn on the MIL even though stored..they don't affect emissions) Anything to do with ABS/Body/Radio..etc can't be scanned by 99.999999% of scanners because there not made nor required too. This is why some ppl have done write ups and testing with X scanner that is found to work under a particular Volvo protocol or Ford protocol because Aston shares the same module.


By installing a new DMTL pump, the PCM would have to demand a test to see if it's working, then pass that test X amount of times to clear the code on it's own... on the newer model vehicles, even clearing the codes doesn't clear out the cache memory of the fault until the drive cycle has been passed X amount of times to verify the concern has been resolved....this is to avoid ppl from clearing there MIL light, passing a drive cycle to clear the P1000 and then doing a CARB test before the MIL light is triggered from the concern that is intermittent.


Yah a fuel cap will solve the issue if it was faulty and the issue for a small or large evap leak...the codes you posted are not for a evap leak, they were for a evap circuit issue.

 

Ok thanks so will drive around for 1-2 week or Sao and once I get appointment with AM dealer I will go there. Once that's done I will update the findings.

 

OK Problem is fixed
On passenger side wheel well area there are 2 plugs one of them was not completely pushed in, so once I did both error message went away. Parking sensors are beeping again, I don't hear chirps on locking and unlocking the car but not sure if AM needs to reset that.

 

Had the exact same problem and the culprit were the 2 plugs in the well, the clip holding them together were missing.

 

Hi,
Where exactly are these plugs located and what do they look like please?

 

Lol
I always say "problem you are having, you are not alone and there must be some one else who must have had the same problem." Hopefully they took time to post solution on Internet.

Happy to hear that it's fixed.

 

Once you remove passenger wheel and wheel well, just stick your head in there, look at roof say like 11 o'clock position. You will see I vaguely remember that there are 2 reasonable size plugs , with multiple wiring harness, they are black like many other plugs in our car. They go in to each other pretty tight.
Sorry I don't have picture.

 

You need to remove the inner fender, right behind it to you left. You cant miss it. The pic are mine, there is supposed to be a red clip holding the plugs together mine were gone

 

So what did you do about it?
I would probably use zip tie on both side of that plug so they stay together

 

Thank you. I'll check it out.