Greetings!

I'm going to be doing some cleaning on a V8 Vantage in Meteorite Silver. I was looking for posts on what a good wax would be so I can get a really great clean shine! Very excited to do this as it puts me in a zen like state cleaning cars . I'm planning on a regular hand wash/dry then wax cleaning (not doing clay yet).

I saw that Zymol Carbon might be a good wax to buy, but wanted to ask you gentlemen first before I commit. Can anyone recommend me something better?

As always thanks a bunch gents! Cheers!

 

I've had really good luck with Adam's Americana carnauba paste wax. I let that cure for a while, then the next wash I use the H20 Gloss Guard sealant (amazingly easy to use). My results have been this: the paste wax provides the depth and color saturation. Plus it provides the 'wax application / removal' experience. "The Zen" - I agree. H20 Gloss Guard can be done directly after a wash, or on a dry car. This is super easy to apply then finishes the carnauba wax with a high, hard gloss shine. The finish 'slip' feel is amazing and the car looks wet. There are so many great products to use, this combination just happens to be my favorite (currently). Have fun!

 

I use Chemical Guys JetSeal as a sealant and Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax which gives me great results. Unlike spf1410, I use sealant first and then wax the car 24hrs later.

 

checkout swissvax @ http://www.swissvax.us.

 

I also heard very good things about Zaino products but haven't tried it myself yet.

 

I had been using the 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste with good results prior to having my Vantage Ceramic Pro coated. I hadn't heard of that but saw it offered by one of the GTA Aston Martin Dealers. I didn't have it done by the dealer though but direct at the shop they outsource to.

It gives the paint an amazing finish and is warrantied for 5 years. Worth the investment and saving a lot of elbow grease.

 

I've heard great things about swissvax although haven't had a chance to use it on my car. Some of the very high-end detailers I know use it on. Same with the Ceramic coatings. They are pricey - i think somewhere in the mid 4 digits - but last forever and really take all the work out of keeping the car clean.

A good middle ground that I have been using on my car is CarPros HydrO2. Its a coating similar to the ceramic, but its a silica spray-on, rinse off. The shine and feel of the car is amazing afterwards, it can be used on all surfaces, and it is super easy to apply. It's about $60 a bottle, but is concentrated so for something like an AM, I think you could get maybe 20 applications out of a bottle.

Occasionally I'll do a wax and then the next day do the HydrO2 on top just for added protection. Right now I am using some Meguiar's Ultimate Paste that I need to finish up, but there is a good likelihood that I will get the swissvax standard or potentially the pinnacle souveran to try out next.

I don't know if SheriffDep still posts on here, but he has a wealth of knowledge on this topic.

 

Griot's Best of Show wax has always been my favorite.

 

Thanks so much all! Really great recommendations! Not hearing much about Zymol here so, I'm now leaning towards Swissvax as I've read a few posts on here about it. Only thing about that wax is that it has red warnings all over the site saying you need to apply cleaner regular first which I'm guessing is a polish? So, you need soap, the cleaner, then the wax i'm guessing? I'm thinking of picking up the sampler stuff so I can see if it's worth it. Looks to be about $100 for all three items (going with Mirage wax sampler).

 

Keep in mind that it's not the wax that's going to give you the shine, it's the polishing and preparation steps you take before the wax that will guarantee the best shine.

I'd consult a well-known detailer for more info on how to do. My go-to guy is Phil at Detailers Domain. Super knowledgeable and always helpful. www.detailersdomain.com

 

"What currently is the best wax to buy?"



How long is a piece of rope?

 

As noted... the paint should feel glass smooth to start. If not clay bar the entire car. (use half the bar at a time... incase you drop it and have to throw it away.) Or use a light polish if you have some legitimate swirling or overspray. This is really the big part to get right.

Zaino holds up very well... But I am getting sick of having to mix it before each use.. couple drops of curing agent go in with the wax. I may switch to another of their products.

 

Disclaimer----- I do not do this for a living, I do not solicit any work for paint corrections, I will not take responsibility if you buy a buffer and start sanding your paint off (yes thats been done by people), I just love passing knowledge to those who want to learn a wonderful skill that can show immediately and only you will get the full enjoyment out of it. I believe in the right way, or don't do it at all and save money and time. So here it goes....


Finally a topic that I am good to help on!!! ....Hydro2 is a great product for any car. Very quick easy and simple, but good also. Great for spraying wheels, wells, underneath, and the car if desired. I have used it before and recommend it. But not as the only product used. As a topper and as a quick, want to make sure its protected type thing.

Several here have mentioned a process that should be taken into consideration first. A Paint Correction.

Micro particles on the surface will dull the gloss that the clear coat is capable of. That is one reason to use the clay bar, and there are many different types. Many people have no idea that even from Aston Martin a brand new car will have swirls, sanding marks, and orange peel. So even a brand new Vanquish still needs to be corrected before a sealant is applied. Unless this is done, the paint is not in it best possible condition for gloss or pureness. NO dealer does this, and from what I have seen they make things far worse. Even high end places use one bucket all day, one brush, or rag, or mitt, and dry with a chamois. (I watched an Enzo being done with a green brush in DC) If you use a chamois or California Duster you could not be more wrong. They are horrible for your paint. (they drag any and all specs of debris across every panel of your paint till you stop, hence marking it up) Throw them away and only dry the car with air blower (not your leaf blower) or a specific drying micro fiber MF towel (if i do this, I will use a product called Hydrate to lubricate the surface additionally so I don't mar it at all). Or you will continue to marr your surfaces unnecessarily. Just some advice, take it or leave it. Also, NEVER have them wash your car after servicing. They will ruin the hard work you have done to take care in ONE wash.

See bottom of this post for just a quick sealant. Otherwise read on!!!

Clay, then use a Polish, then a sealant, then if desired a carnauba wax. Polishing will only give good results if you use the proper equipment, such as a dual action buffer (Rupes, Flex, Griots, etc) and the proper pads and polish. With your hands, the products honestly cannot do their jobs correctly. You own a 100k or more vehicle, you can afford a $500 buffer and pads. Those without time to do this, pay someone for perfection. Not everyone cares this much and that is fine, however if you do want your paint the best, then learn. I have spoken to a well known forum member about maybe offering a free learning class on the whole process around DC late next year. So maybe that will work out.

MY typical regimen is to wash weekly with a proper wash such as Chemical Guys Mr Pink (there are many others, but, the ones with wax in them or other products are a waste of money), using one bucket with 10-12 MF towels in it. Use one towel per panel never touching the towel back into the bucket. Then rinse off and use the Master Blaster air to dry the vehicle. 25% of scratches and swirls come from washing, 75% come from drying. So less you touch, the better it stays.

Then if needed clay the WHOLE car including the glass. Then if needed a Rupes lr15 with a Meguires MF cutting pad using Menzerna FG400 or the Meguires D300 compounds (there are others, these just work perfect for me on Mercs, BMW's, Maseratis, and AM's). Then use the white or yellow Rupes Polishing pads and use first the Menzerna FS4000 polish starting with pressure then last strokes with little to no pressure. Then use a Black no cut final pad with Rupes Diamond polish that is cut with some DI water and use no pressure and jewel the paint.

Now, the big subject a Sealant. Sealants are chemically based unlike carnuba wax. Sealants last around 4-6 months pending your location and if garaged. Carnauba maybe 4 weeks and even less if in the sun.

Coatings----- I love coatings, and there is ceramic, like Carpro's, and some others, and a lot in the silica Glass category. I prefer the glass coatings. However, recent discussions has brought on some worry using them. Think of your paint on your car as skin. When it gets hot, it swells, when cool it contracts. There is movement in your paint, just like in your skin. If you put a hard shell glass or ceramic coating on the paint, then the paint cannot flex like it did. Or possibly, they are so new to the market, the swelling and contracting might start messing with things if the coatings are on the cars. This is unproven, but in 5 years, after time goes by there might be some issues. So.......... my suggestion for exotic cars is NOW to stay away. But..... there are some great uses for the coatings.

Wheels---- I will absolutely take the wheels off, clean and or polish what is needed and make as perfect as possible, both the inside and out, and apply 2-3 coats of 22PLE HPC glass coatings (you can use others, but this is what I find works the best for me). This will help prevent brake dust or dirt accumulating on the surface, but the real treat is washing. NO more APC (all purpose cleaners). Use just a MF towel and your soap that is in your bucket. It will just come right off. I will remove my well liners and use the Trim variant of 22ple for those also. keeps them perfect, unless you have felt. So Coatings for wheels, trim, liners, and brake calipers.

Paint--- I use AMMONYC for protectants. Larry has a new product thats wipe on and wipe off in 15min. ITs called Reflex. Its not a coating but it is a variant. It will provide the same shine as a coating but allows the paint to flex still. However it will only last 6 months pending conditions. This can be layered for increased shine. Then I would top that with Skin. Its a sealant that works chemically with Reflex and provides another layer to protect your paint. Finally, I personally would top that with Creme. Carnauba wax (you can use SwissVax, Soveran, Blackfire etc..) But using products that are specifically made to work with each other chemically makes sense. You can check out Larry on many videos under AMMONYC and learn all these processes to a point where you can do them also. He can also be reached by email and will answer anyones question. Very nice guy. Autogeek also has a bunch of videos, how-to's, and Mike Phillips is one of the best in the country. You can't go wrong learning from those guys. Kevin Brown is another to google. I wont come up so no sense in trying

My number one suggestion to people is if you can buy at your local Auto Zone, its likely a watered down, consumer grade cheaper product. You can pay mostly the same but get professional grade items at several locations online. I wont post those 2 places that I use. Remember, the above process that I explained would take me approximately 30-40 hrs of work if all done at once. Pricing would be $1500 to $2500 pending how many steps in polishing. So not cheap at all for a professional to do them. If someone says they will charge you $500 or so, I would start asking many many questions about products and equipment used. You would be surprised how many try to do this type work and fail. Time would increase if I started to work wood pieces in the interior. They are coated in clear coat just like your paint, so can be treated the same for incredible gloss levels. I don't have my DB9 yet, so cannot for sure remember if the waterfall is clear coated for the piano black. I think it is though. But all other cars you can do all the wood.

Okay for those who really want to just protect their AM paint you could use a process like AMMO's and use Reflex for gloss and protectant enhancement and will take you no more than 20-30 min. Add the Skin which likely would take an hour or so. Then the same for Creme. I actually will apply the Creme literally with my bare hands pending the type of car I am doing. This is only a hobby that I feel that I excel at and gives me therapy. So in an afternoon the car is protected for 6 months. The Reflex bottle will last 20 or so applications, so 2-3 times a year, will last a long time. Skin, likely 20 times and I apply once every 3 months. The Creme I apply whenever I want the car to be absolutely its best, Shows, Diner with two hot babes, cars and coffee, or whenever I need the therapy. But for less caring people, one app of Reflex, 2x Skin, and no Creme is fine also.

Those processes can be done with Pinnacle Sovran sealants and carnauba products, or SwissVax, or others. I have just tried so many and have moved to what I know is perfect and I don't look further. I am only trying to pass my experience to fellow enthusiasts and save them time, money, and grief. Hope this helps.

I am in Afghanistan right now, so can't reply quickly but am happy to help and answer any possibly question you guys would like to know. Will suggest things also if you want specifics. I think I covered most posts above product wise, but if I left out one like Zaino, I did on purpose. Hint Hint. Spend your funds elsewhere. Its fine for a camaro, or really any car, but to me its just not on level with the professional types of products you can easily purchase yourself.


Carnauba wax------- I am not the expert on these. I know SwissVax has like 10 types ranging from $75 to 10k. What I think or remember is the higher concentrated amount of Carnauba in the product, the better or allows for deeper hueing gloss. There is also yellow and white versions. I think the white is rarer and a lot more expensive. My gloss levels are so great, that I am not sure a wax will change it much more, so Creme is my go too, but would use Souveran or others if Creme was not available. Hope that helps specifically. I would be willing to try the Swiss products, just haven't at this time so cannot speak specifically on them.

 

Sherrif, you sir are awesome thank you for posting all the info! I'll be reading it thoroughly when I get home.

You did bring up a great point. A sealant instead of a wax. I have no clue which is best to use. I've heard unbelievable things about them. In particular I've heard about Collinite No.845 in another thread on here. But it's an insulator. I guess I'm probably making too big a deal out of this. I'm thinking of going swissvax for now, but the above product is also really interesting. I have no clue if there is a best as other have said on this thread. Too many brands/types out there.

 

I agree with the above. It's also knowing the right pad and goop combination and knowing how to use the machine the pad and goop are attached to. It's a skill as well as a time consuming process. And yes it's way more than wax. It's removing the current wax, using a clay bar, possibly compounding, polishing, glazing, and then finally waxing. Waxing is the easiest part of all that.

I think it's best to hire someone unless you know what you're doing.