Hello -

I'm new to the forums and have searched extensively, but can't find an answer to my problem. I'm hoping another user might have some advice. I'm sorry for the lengthy narrative, but I figure more info is better than less.

Here's what I'm dealing with:

When I actuate the switch to LOWER the roof, it works up to the point where the tonneau cover / roof lid / whatever you call it is supposed to open up and alllow the roof to fold into the storage space. The front of the roof is partially open and the tension bow is open to ~90°, but the lid won't open. In fact, the front edge of the lid appears to move DOWN, not up (though just a few mm).

I don't get a failure message or anything: the hydraulic pump continues to run, but the lowering process is stuck at this point.

It seems to me that the tonneau cover latches aren't disengaging, but the tonneau pistons are still trying to lift the lid. Since the pistons connect toward the rear of the lid, I'm thinking the the lid would pivot at the latch point, with everything forward of that point moving downward. Seem reasonable?

I've tried the following advice from other threads:

1. pulled the fuse in the rear boot, waited 30 minutes, replaced;
2. reset the windows; and
3. opened roof partially, removed key from ignition, tried to move manually (top moved but lid wouldn't).

No luck.

Based on other threads, possible culprits seem to be the CRM in the LR wheel well or the latch motors themselves, which are reportedly prone to water intrusion and failure.

Gauges, signals, etc are all fine and no odd messages popping up, which makes CRM failure less likely (I think - does anyone have experience to the contrary?).

BOTH lid latches are remaining engaged, so that seems to make a latch motor failure less likely, I would think. I suppose it's possible that they both failed at the same time, but seems odd.

So I'm leaning more toward an electrical issue that's preventing proper operation of the latches. That might be an uncommon problem with the CRM, where it's not sending voltage to the lid motor relay(s), failure of the lid motor relay(s), a grounding problem, or a problem with a sensor related to the latches or lid position.

I'm hoping someone has run into this specific problem before. But if not, I could really use some help tracking it down. Specifically:

1. If anyone has the tech manual for the convertible roof, please send me a copy? I have the 2005 shop manual, but the roof details are a bit thin;
2. Does anyone know where the heck the relays are for the latch motors? The AM details list a "Dual Relay Base- Tonneau Lid Lock", but I have no idea where that is. Scuderia says there's a relay under the bonnet, but AM doesn't agree.
3. Is there any way to manually release the tonneau cover latches? I see that 2008-forward says there are cable releases in the battery area in the RR seat, but there's no such advice for 2005-07 and I can't find anything back there.
4. If anyone knows, please confirm that the latch motors are located behind the rear seat side panels, and require removal of the aluminum plate to which the speaker, light, and window motor are mounted. I pulled the rear seats and side trim (the process for which did not at all resemble what the shop manual described) but wussed out when I saw all the crap on the underlying panel.

If you're still here after all that stuff, thanks for reading, and I look forward to anything you can tell me! This is making me nuts.

Thanks,
David

 

Sounds like your tonneau cover latch motors have failed. Unfortunately, there's no way to bypass them or operate them without removing all the rear quarter trim, rear quarter glass and regulators. Once you've gained access to them, the motors can be removed and latches manually operated. Most likely you will find water in the motor housings(or signs of water including rust). This is a common problem with older DB9s that sit in the rain a lot. What region is your DB9 originally from?

 

It's been in socal (Los angeles) since it was new. We had a pretty wet winter though.

Just seems odd that both should go out at the same time-- like getting two flat tires, you know?

The service manual shows a dual relay base with the relays for the latches, but I can't find a reference for its location. Any ideas? Is it behind one of the rear side panels, with the motors?


thanks,
david.

 

did you fix this problem ? As mine has now gone the same way

Thanks

 

I'm not sure I buy into the failed latch theory. I have a 2010 DBS but I think the mechanism is the same. I've been through the failed CRM issue (so I know what that's like) but have also had been able to resolve similar symptoms by charging/replacing the battery and resetting the windows. These cars are sensitive to voltage. And the convertible top will stop when the windows are not properly sync'd.

 

I replaced the battery and everything is running great except the tonneau wont open moves slightly and it makes the sound of unlocking but wont open.

do you think a CRM will fix this ?

Cheers Nigel

 

When my CRM was failing, another symptom was that the instruments would work sporadically. Anything like that happening in your case?

 

Yes have had that too just yesterday running fine and them the gas gauge dropped to zero for about an hour then came back and have had gear selector problems in the past

Cheers Nigel

 

In my case the instrument outages got progressively worse until they didn't even work (over the course of a couple weeks). If that happens to you, you can disconnect the CRM to see if it resolves the instrumentation problems. If so, it's your CRM.

 

David, Are you still subscribed to this post and able to share any info on how you solved this issue? Did you find the answers to those questions you posed in the OP? I am facing very similar symptoms.

I have one latch on my 2007 DB9 Volante not working and with mild force pulled it free; I now have the cover propped open with no way to close because the latch is stuck in closed position. I'm about to go into rear left wheel well looking for the CRM box and check out wire looms etc and look for water damage. Anything you can offer that helped you solved this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Update... I'm going for the latch motor assembly and have disassembled back seat trim but am stuck at how to make the quarter window regulator operate. Spliced in and applied 12V where I thought it was needed but I must have the wrong wires. My electrical drawings in service manual don't include the volante roof pages.

 

Resurrecting this thread for anyone who can help. I have a 2009 Vantage Roadster - identical problem. Roof opens 50% then I hear the rear latch click and pop open 1/4 inch then everything stops, as if the hatch wont open fully to allow the roof to retract. The motors seem to be okay.

What fuses on a Vantage control all these parts? I found a Cabin Fuse missing that seemed to operate the switch, but there are no diagrams telling me what fuses are what numbers for a Vantage, only a DB, and they are clearly not the same.

I really dont want to bring this to the stealership for huge repairs if in fact it could be a stupid fuse or something simple. What can I check?

 

This issue was such a pain on the db9 and is still only somewhat resolved. Symptoms sound similar to mine but I had one side release completely. 98% sure it's not a fuse issue for you. I might be able to find your fuse diagram tonight but I think it's on my laptop 1000 miles away.

I finally figured out how to get the rear quarter windows operating independently of convertible sequence... It involved power, up, and down wires all getting 12v and you ground the down wire to send the window down or ground the up wire to send the window up.

Your latch you said pops up just a little like mine did. Mine opened 2 inches though and not just 1/4 inch. I pulled on the tonneau cover until it popped free and I used a hood prop to keep it up so it didn't fall on rear glass. I think the issue ended up being the driver side tonneau cover motor and cable being misaligned somewhat or water causing abnormal motor behavior. I couldn't get the latch motor out because it involved completely disassembling the rear quarter panel exterior of the car!! However by some miracle, a potentially awful mistake I made had the latch motor operating beyond its intended setpoint and now it successfully latches. It doesn't sound quite right but it is operational again.

If I took it to a shop I'm predicting 10-12 hours labor and 1200 in parts because they can.

Db9 has a notice about water getting into the latch motor housings and causing abnormal behavior; I'm pretty sure this was the issue with mine. An official dealer fix was to drill holes in motor housing for water drainage if motor operates normally when dry. If vantage has same issue, maybe you'll get lucky and in a week the issue could resolve itself as the water drains out or dries up.

I'd consider thinking of your convertible as a coupe moving forward. 😉

 

Hi to everyone on this old thread. I originally started reading Lostinla / David’s plea of 6/2/2017 and then read the many wonderful and informative responses from everyone else. When all was said and done, I was unable to find a conclusive end to this convertible roof dilemma. It’s been so long since reading David’s original call for help, half of you guys have probably sold your Aston’s and moved on to more reliable transportation…… I wouldn’t blame you one bit, but I’m still stuck with my 2015 DB9 Volante that has been masquerading as a Coupe for too long. Did all of you on this thread manage to fix your roof problems? Or did you all give up and reluctantly take your AM’s to a Dealership? So I’m resurrecting this thread in the hope there’s still AM owners out there that have not only experienced what seems to be a common problem with Volantes, but have managed to solve the issue…. Please, please share your knowledge so the interior of my DB9 can experience direct sunlight once again! Sincerely, John Proctor. 941 915 1622 😁

 

Hello soccerdad and anybody else still looking here.
I have a 2005 model and the passenger side roof (uk) wont unlock. the drivers side does and rises a few inches so it is all at a cocked angle.Thats the problem, the latch is not unlocking. So having read about the "Convertible roof lid lock motors relay" I found the boot fuse box on the left behind the carpet, I had to unbolt the box to gain access to the relays that were said to be underneath the box. Mine were attached to side of the rear, just 2 in their own conector. I pulled them out and thoroughly cleaned the contacts. I operated the roof to check they were the right relays, neither side opened so must be the right relays, I placed them back into their connectors. I opened the roof again and only one side opened again so I swopped the relays round to see if one was faulty but made no difference.
I am now stripping out the rear interior trim on the passenger side to check out the "roof lid lock motors" which is said to be behind the rear quarter glass and regulator unit and suseptable to water ingress.
I will update this when I get further into it. filwalsh.