No - I have a 6M - the workshop manual has a diagnostic process for bleeding the automatic (ASM). I won;t need any diagnostics unless the repalcment isn't functioning properly. I typically bleed BMW manual cars with my Motiv bleeder. I'll use the same process on this manual unless there is a better way or reason not to???

BTW - I did finally start to do a little research into replacement clutches. - Awful lot of info on here - very educational - lot's of good reading & the chap from Bamford Rose finally gave me an answer that makes sense (to me) as to why these OE clutches fail so soon. I'm reluctant to increase idle RPM's as a potential aspect of any replacement issue.

 

I've done the same. There's not much fluid in the clutch system, very quick and easy job. It's even easy to access the bleed valve.

 

Yep, bled mine with a motive, just like any other car. Super easy. With the ASM kit, you also replace the slave cylinder, so it take a bit of fluid, but not much.

Good to hear for those with ASM that it is possible to do without the computer. Looking at the service manual, it looks like the computer only resets the life indicator....

 

I have driven my '07 with my new AMR clutch for about 30 miles today in both heavy stop and go and on the highway. The lighter flywheel is definitely evident. I didn't have any problems setting off from a start but if you're used to starting off with no gas, you'd need to make a slight driving technique adjustment. The engine responds to the throttle more quickly and the car certainly feels like it accelerates harder. Heel n toe is easier and more fun. I really like the improvement and there seems to be no drawback, save for the lighter wallet

 

I've had the opportunity to do some spirited driving now with the new clutch. The engine is much more lively. You don't have to stab the throttle nearly as hard for the revs to come up for heel-n-toe and acceleration is much more brisk from low rpm. I'm really happy with the improvements in the nature of the drivetrain. If anything, it could actually stand to be a little lighter but this is pretty good.

I did fear that the clutch pedal force would be too low to my liking and to some degree, it is. I'd like it to be a little more heavy. My other cars have heavier pedals but it's easy to get used to.

 

I'm due for a clutch soon and emailed you Stuart. Definitely looking to go the twin plate route.

 

old thread, i know, i know.

between the heavy flywheel, tall reverse gear and heavy clutch, backing's so miserably difficult that i'm looking forward to the time i'll have a legitimate reason to replace the clutch with the AMR unit. bad news is i'm getting old and the car's only got about 18,000 miles on it, so chances are i'll be dead by that time. ...pity.

BTW, i just contacted peninsulaeuropean dot com and praveen gave me a estimate (in about five minutes!) of six G's, in case anyone's interested. (AMR unit included)

here's his prompt and polite response (hope he doesn't mind quoting him here) :

"Hi this is Praveen from Peninsula European, I saw your inquiry for either an Aston Martin duel plated clutch kit or a velocity AP clutch kit installed. Parts and labor installed with new misfire corrections would be $6,000. We normally change the transaxle fluid at the same time while the transaxle is out of the car, labor is no charge, you just pay for the fluids.
All the best,
Praveen
Peninsula European car service"

 

Another shout out to "the chap from Bamford Rose". I don't recall hearing about why the V8V was fitted with a single-plate to begin with. Topic starts at 11:45 minutes in.


BamfordRose Chat #38

 

So, has anyone here changed their own clutch to the two-plate with the sport-shift?

If so, how did you deal with the new mapping as they describe in the BamfordRose video, or is just doing the normal 10sec clutch learn repeatedly enough?

 

We have had lots of customers change their own clutch to the VelocityAP twin plate kit. It does NOT require reprogramming the TCU to work correctly.

The key things that have to be done on an ASM car when changing a clutch (not specific to AMR, VAP, would be the same for an OEM single disc) are:

1. Erase the clutch statistics - this can be done with a factory diagnostic tool, but there are also a lot of other aftermarket tools which will do this. Autel Elite, I believe some of the Snap-On tools will, Leonardo I think has it as well.

2. Misfire Correction Factor Procedure - on an earlier car, pre-2011 simply disconnecting the battery will wipe the misfire correction factors. On a later MY it requires an AMDS to complete this. Once they are erased, you subsequently follow the coast-down procedure (in short, repeated coast down from 70-30MPH in top gear, no throttler or brake application, no more than 4% steering angle and vehicle fully up to temp.) This usually needs to be done 6-8 times on a car with a lightened flywheel.

 

Not to stray too far off topic, but can the ASM be bled without using AMDS? The car is a 2009 V8V. I really like the idea of tackling the VAP twin plate install myself, and have a lift to ease the pain a bit, but still need to convince myself there won't be unforeseen complications. I'm in Columbus, the nearest dealer is in Cleveland...

 

$1 K for a diagnostic tool to erase the clutch statistics is pretty steep and removes the incentive to do the job yourself. I also have a lift, and a fairly deep collection of Aston Tools (from a closed dealer)

A rotable pool of a kit (diagnostic tool, clutch alignment, and clutch compressor ) that could be "rented, with sufficient deposit " for 1-2 weeks may make economic sense and promote clutch sales.

My clutch is still good (2009, 20K miles) but have been on the fence on getting the twin plate clutch for the improved performance and drive ability. But not willing to pay a dealer (no independent around me now) When I lived in VA I had a relationship with the Aston Dealer and they were going to allow me to replace clutch at their shop on a weekend. But I was stupid and did not do, before I moved to FL. Additional I do not confidence in most dealers that they wont screw something up, while performing the service, but I digress.

 

Yes, it can be done fairly well. If you get the car in the air and used the paddles to cycle in and out of gear and someone else locks off the bleed nipple.

 

Its something we have talked about (renting equipment) but to be honest it is much more challenging to manage than you think. Things get damaged, go missing, people hold onto them for far longer than they are supposed to. For example we currently have some loaner tuning tools we use for some of the Flexray Jag/RR tuning we do. One of them has been in possession of one customer since the first week of March. It's a $2000 tool that has a $100 per month annual subscription feed. Guy has gone completely AWOL.

 

Thanks Stuart, always appreciate the insight. Could you provide more detail? Is the process as simple as:

1. Get the car up in the air
2. Connect a hose to the bleeder
3. Turn the ignition on (without the car running)
4. Make sure the car is in neutral
5. Open the bleeder
6. Select 1st gear
7. Wait a few seconds?
8. Close bleeder
9. Select neutral
10. Repeat steps 5-9 a few times?

Also, since ASM has its own reservoir filled with Pentosin 11S, would you extract the old fluid first, replace with new, then perform the bleeding process until the fresh fluid appears?