Would love to know on how these guys handle it and cost. This is my local stealer as well.

 

whats the cost of the clutch kit for those that are going to put it in by themselves? anyone here do the work themselves? seems pretty straight forward.

 

I should put an add in the classifieds but I have a Velocity twin plate for 6MT that was pulled out at 9500 miles to return to stock as the factory tried chasing a problem. I asked the tech how it looked and he said hardly any wear, although I did have a good 10 burnouts on it, without traction control which is what burns clutches. $1750 for the whole kit.

 

is this a drop in replacement? any downside? im sure it is in great shape if it is as new as you say.. what does the kit cost normally. i suppose that $1750 is a discount vs new.
thanks

 

It includes the whole kit, slave, slave spacer, I'm not sure I'd want to torque the same allens again, I don't know if they're reuseable or one time use only, but everything is there. I'd take pics of the discs but the tech put it all back together again to give it back to me so the disc pack is attached to the flywheel. It was $4300 shipped.

http://www.velocityap.com/Aston-V8-V...lateorgman.htm

 

I should add the clutch pack chattered alot from engagement to 2000rpm, the higher the load the louder it was. You'll find plenty of posts of me talking about it here. My car is stock quiet and I believe most of them have some chatter, I just hear it more that anybody else.

 

Someone needs to buy this for that price! Being a dual clutch, yes you get a bit of noise but they work and it would be a great help towards the cost cutting measure of installing a new one at full price. There has to be someone that could use this on here.

 

If somebody was paying $2000 [or the $5000 DC charged another here] for dealer installation I would put in a new clutch. If you're going to do the work yourself, that is where it becomes cost effective as your labor is "free". I really should put it in the classifieds though, spamming clutch threads is probably not board proper, but it's the only times I think about it

 

 

I can't speak for the alternatives, but the AMR clutch in my Vantage makes no hint of rattling.

 

You need a clutch when you drop it and the tires don't spin.

If you had the traction control on you were definitely roasting the clutch. It will let the tires break but it is trying to prevent slip by applying the rear brakes, wearing both the rear brakes and the clutch. If you ever want to roast the tires make sure to turn the nannies off first. Dropping the clutch from 4K isn't that much more disc wear than a firm launch, It locks up fast and all the slip is transferred to the tires. This isn't going to win you any races but if you need to throw up a Double 0 smoke screen that's the ticket. If you want to win the race, don't race a Pagani ! - and don't drop the clutch, feather it, roast it, from 4K [or more] only giving as much compression as the tires stay on the edge of grip. A hole shot. You want them hooked up as much as possible while applying the maximum amount of power, and you have to use the clutch to modulate that. You're not going to beat any fast cars by engaging at 1.5k and smashing the pedal. You have to wear it to beat your GT, or an SS, and you'll need the reaction and a perfect hole shot to beat an SRT8. A hole shot will definitely cost you clutch life!! Just as leaving your nannies on will.

Nannies are a crutch for incompetent or lazy driving! There. I said it. - On the track it's so sophisticated it's the ultimate advancement in high speed traction followed by high speed aero. On the street, be a driver. You're not taking any corners at 110, but at 60 you can float the rear out an inch or 2 without the inside rear brake yanking on you, or you can throw it out a foot and drift. Loss of traction is the goal if I'm hitting an offramp hard, braking or accelerating. Although I don't drive it near as hard as I did when I first got it. It's got a new engine, why beat on it LOL

Riding a clutch in reverse is just natural backing out of any spot blind, you ride it until you know you're clear. But I ride it as much creeping forward with the parking sensors until common sense or the sensors tell me it's close enough to concrete. It's a clutch, you ride it for lots of reasons, the most gentle engagement of a clutch is still riding it at the point of engagement to get that smooth take off. You smell the clutch in reverse more as the airflow directs the clutch smoke into the cabin through the console/footwell, which is why they devised that box mod to stop it from entering the cab. Reverse is a taller gear than 1 so R is going to wear it a little more, and you generally creep with it more in R, none of us reverse as confidently as we drive forward LOL, and you smell it in R so you think it's far worse than 1, but it isn't.

There are no clutch rattles, the chatter is more like a groan and it's from all the springs. I get a hair of chatter out of the dead stock V8 clutch they replaced my VAP with, it's the springs. 5/6? in the stock, and double that in a twin plate. If you ever pick up a pressure plate shake it and all the springs rattle. So the sound resembles a groan - but it's really spring chatter. And I do have a quiet car. The first gen 4.7's are the quietest of all the V8V's, [by what I've read and understand], the 4.3's had louder stock exhaust and it wasn't till the S the 4.7 got louder exhaust. Stock it's plenty loud for me passing 6k at full throttle, but at 15 in a parking lot it's a quiet car, so the chatter is much more annoying, and where I always notice it the most..

 

I'm going to make an amendment to my previous statement due to a discovery today. I generally can't hear the clutch chattering unless I get my head down at the ground next to the side of the car. It's not noticeable at all from inside the car or standing next to it. It' is not a groan, it's more of a chatter.

 

Recently had some problems with stalling in reverse with clutch problems on my 2009 V8V ASM...

finally getting new clutch installed... going with stock AM...was quoted $3600 from dealer.

 

Just got my vantage back with a new OEM clutch... drives and shifts like new. . even thought tech had more hours due to some seized bolts on exhaust, dealer charged me quoted price and also did a full inspection of car, brakes, etc... software updates. . great folks at Aston Martin Orlando

 

I figured from the price that had to be Orlando. I think they're the only reasonable dealer in Florida on service pricing.