Winter Storage Question
Winter Storage Question
In the past, when I store my Vantages in the winter, I would run them a few minutes from time to time when I cold pull the car out into the alley and run it. Last year I did not do that because it's unlikely to get warm in Minnesota winters just idling a few minutes.
What's worse - not running the engine at all for 4 to 5 months, or on occasion starting it and letting it run say 5 minutes every month or so?
What's worse - not running the engine at all for 4 to 5 months, or on occasion starting it and letting it run say 5 minutes every month or so?
In the past, when I store my Vantages in the winter, I would run them a few minutes from time to time when I cold pull the car out into the alley and run it. Last year I did not do that because it's unlikely to get warm in Minnesota winters just idling a few minutes.
What's worse - not running the engine at all for 4 to 5 months, or on occasion starting it and letting it run say 5 minutes every month or so?
What's worse - not running the engine at all for 4 to 5 months, or on occasion starting it and letting it run say 5 minutes every month or so?
Theoretically you don't want to run the engine for Short periods because the moisture in the oil doesn't get burned off. That moisture can both corrode internal parts and contribute to oil acidity. However, I've seen a couple of people do used oil analysis on cars that were used for very low mileage and started and stopped and the oil looked fine. On the other hand, I have a generator that self checks by running every Saturday for five minutes. After 6 months the oil looks like a chocolate milk shake from all the water in it.
I don't start my engine over the winter but I do turn it over a couple times with the gas pedal on the floor over the storage time to make sure the cylinder walls and bearings have a coat of oil on them.
I don't start my engine over the winter but I do turn it over a couple times with the gas pedal on the floor over the storage time to make sure the cylinder walls and bearings have a coat of oil on them.
I know the older DB's had it. Check in your manual under "Storing your Vehicle"
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Agree with all stated above, and I have posted on this subject on this forum, in the past.
The last thing you want to do is start your car from storage and idle it for a few minutes. Just let it be until the spring.
As noted, the S with Bosch ECU no longer has the spark inhibit function. Such a shame... I cringe every spring when starting mine up for the first time, as must anyone with an ounce of mechanical sympathy. Why more high end cars aren't fitted with this feature is beyond me, since a lot of customers must be storing them for extended periods in many parts of the world they are sold.
The last thing you want to do is start your car from storage and idle it for a few minutes. Just let it be until the spring.
As noted, the S with Bosch ECU no longer has the spark inhibit function. Such a shame... I cringe every spring when starting mine up for the first time, as must anyone with an ounce of mechanical sympathy. Why more high end cars aren't fitted with this feature is beyond me, since a lot of customers must be storing them for extended periods in many parts of the world they are sold.
For cars without the start-up suspend feature, pull the fuse for the fuel pump before you engage the starter and the car won't start. Crank it over until you get oil pressure and then put the fuse back in.
Totally agree with advice to let the cars sit over the winter. I usually inflate tires to 60 PSI to avoid flat spotting but my OEM tires have cracks so they're being replaced this spring. No need to protect them over the winter.
Totally agree with advice to let the cars sit over the winter. I usually inflate tires to 60 PSI to avoid flat spotting but my OEM tires have cracks so they're being replaced this spring. No need to protect them over the winter.
Working on it, right now we have a 3,600 sq.ft. home overlooking 5 acres of woods/wetland in St. Louis Park,MN no next door neighbors, a dual certified 'green' home with a 4 car garage, elevator, 5 bedrooms 4 baths, and every window and room coordinated with a view of open space - right in a dense urban setting! Winter utility bills are $50 a month, Craftsman with metal roof, with a modern flair, a home too large for us and a mortgage I'd like to retire - trying to convince my wife to sell our home this spring, take the $600K to 700K equity (we owe $500K), buy or more likely build a nice smaller home somewhat near the Ocean, perhaps Charleston or North Carolina - pay cash and still have $300+K in the bank. I designed Trasona at Viera, Florida that I'd love to live in, but mid-Florida gets a lot of rain, and traffic at Viera, especially rush hour around the 'roundabouts' is terrible. But Trasona is an incredible neighborhood (each home and lot shape of the 1,350 homes to be built there has the floor plan coordinated with the surrounding views) and the meandering setbacks streets and walks is like living in a piece of elegant modern art. But I'm on the fence about Florida vs. Charleston. I also have to travel a bit (about twice a month), so being by an international airport is handy (Trasona is 45 minutes from Orlando).
So thinking about it seriously.
So thinking about it seriously.
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