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Hi, guy's.
I did oil change on my car for the first time since I bought it. Before me it has been serviced only by Aston Martin.
Started to drain the oil from front to back. But when I loosened the last oil plug it felt weird. AND that feeling was right. The threading is almost gone...
Most likely from over-torque in the past.
So... I'm thinking Heli Coil. But then I am not a professional.
Anyone here that know the right solution for this?
You have a few options. The first (that will leave you feeling a bit dirty) is the rubber expanding drain plug from the autoparts store. It goes in and expands with a screw to firmly hold in place. I hate to admit that I have used these on two cars. Both bought used, and apparently both serviced previously by the same Jiffy-Lube.
I have tapped oil drain holes while still on the car both to just go up in size, and to use a thread insert. Either way, it helps to coat the tap with tapping wax or grease to catch the shavings. Do it in about 4 steps to collect as much debris as possible. I would run a couple of quarts of oil through to get the little bit that you missed with the grease.
My intention is to keep original plug. Searching the internet I found this: https://www.timesert.com
I think it look like a really good solution but it is expensive.
That sucks. What incompetence it must take to keep driving in a thread that doesn't feel right. They probably used a power driver, a no-no on aluminum threads.
The risk of tapping a new thread is generating debris that gets into the oil passages. Especially considering where this plug is. If you do end up using a timesert, try to have a vacuum nozzle pulling on the bit as it cuts. Personally, I'd just try recutting the threads a bit with the current thread pattern so that the plug can be easily installed and removed. The oring does the sealing so you just need the threads to be strong enough to hold the plug in with sufficient pressure.
Mm, debris is the downside of making new thread. As you suggest, vaccum is a must. I'm also thinking of pushing in a loosely wrapped piece of linen, as extra protection. And then (with some luck) vacuum both debris and linen out...
Regarding refreshing the original threads. Could absolutely work but sadly I don't think I could sleep well, knowing that it isn't 100 %.
Mm, debris is the downside of making new thread. As you suggest, vaccum is a must. I'm also thinking of pushing in a loosely wrapped piece of linen, as extra protection. And then (with some luck) vacuum both debris and linen out...
Regarding refreshing the original threads. Could absolutely work but sadly I don't think I could sleep well, knowing that it isn't 100 %.
If it can hold torque and doesn't leak, it's doing it's job. It's not like it's structural.
Repair it with the timecert, your other option is replace it, now that's expensive!
If you could "save" the existing thread, and I know it's not OEM but. Install a Funmoto valve and you will never have to open it again. Very handy if you DIY oil changes too.
Thanks for all info and good idea's, guys!!
I choosed to go for the time-sert solution. Just got my hand on a kit and I'm hoping to get it done later today.
Mm, debris is the downside of making new thread. As you suggest, vaccum is a must. I'm also thinking of pushing in a loosely wrapped piece of linen, as extra protection. And then (with some luck) vacuum both debris and linen out...
Regarding refreshing the original threads. Could absolutely work but sadly I don't think I could sleep well, knowing that it isn't 100 %.
The loose linen is a bad idea.
My suggestion, Put the plug back in and finger tight only. Put a couple of quarts of cheap oil in the engine. Prepare tap with liberal amount of grease. Remove finger tight plug and immediately introduce tap to oil pan threads. Any shavings debris should be forced out as the oil drains. Once tapped introduce your desired solution.
Good luck.
On a related topic (since you want to minimize drain bolt remove/install cycle) I asked Fumoto valve if they support the thread (it looks like M16-2.0 pitch), they don't carry it. Is this the right thread size, and anyone know of quick oil drain product that fit V8V?
M16-1.5 was too narrow thread pitch.
The loose linen is a bad idea.
My suggestion, Put the plug back in and finger tight only. Put a couple of quarts of cheap oil in the engine. Prepare tap with liberal amount of grease. Remove finger tight plug and immediately introduce tap to oil pan threads. Any shavings debris should be forced out as the oil drains. Once tapped introduce your desired solution.
Good luck.
That would certainly minimize the chances of debris getting up into the pan but I doubt someone could adequately line up, start, and run a tap while oil is spilling out on them. Let alone drill the larger hole for a timesert. I have no idea how that would work.
On a related topic (since you want to minimize drain bolt remove/install cycle) I asked Fumoto valve if they support the thread (it looks like M16-2.0 pitch), they don't carry it. Is this the right thread size, and anyone know of quick oil drain product that fit V8V?
M16-1.5 was too narrow thread pitch.
The original drain plug for AM V8V (4.7) have threading M14-1.5. Someone told me that it is a common size in German car's oil pan (BMW, Mercedes). If it is true, I don't know.
Last edited by Hookmaster; Jan 21, 2020 at 11:53 PM.
For some reasons I can't upload all the photo's.
There is a lot of videos regarding Time-Sert on Youtube for those of you who don't know about it already.