What I found in some cases is that there is a small surface defect/damage (crack or chip) and wax gets into that area and it is hard to get out. If that is the case, you can use a pin or dental pic if you are very careful. You can dig it out of the crack/chip, but be very careful not to scratch the surface of the plastic. Keep the point on the wax and slightly move it starting with light pressure. Some of the other methods mentioned above may not get it out in my experience.

Now if it does not appear to be surface defect, I have been very successful with using an eraser on black dull plastics. Plain old orange eraser does wonders, but it can take a bit of effort to get it off that way. Note I've not tried on lens type plastic materials, but would think it would do the same.

Also, I would be very careful with some of the products suggested here and make sure they are safe for plastics. Especially solvents. Some could damage the lens/plastic.

 

An old trick to get in small areas like that without damaging the paint is to use a toothpick. The wood is pointed but soft enough to not damage the paint. I'd take it easy on plastic still, but would go this route before using any metal tools, myself..

 

Good idea. I've used toothpicks a well. I would try that first. I have had some harder substances where a toothpick was not very effective too.

 

Hey all. It’s actually on the top of the tailight. I applied by hand the Griots One Step Sealant and then their Polywax and probably forgot to wipe off a small area and now can’t get it off.

 

Mr. Clean magic eraser.

 

If you want to scratch up the plastic...

 

So it's a sealant. It was chemically engineered to not come off easily. My advice is to take it to a professional instead of risking damage doing it yourself... replacing tail lights isn't cheap.

 

Hi....I am a little puzzled why you did not call the manufacturer of the product. Tell them what happened and ask best way to remove.
I am sure you are not the first person that had this problem. Many on the forum gave great opinions on removing but did not know you did not use a wax but a finish.
Good Luck...

 

I don't think a polymer sealant (not a ceramic coating, which is an entirely different animal) should be hard to remove. In fact, it's likely to be easier to wipe off than wax. Once again, it would be very helpful if you posted a clear picture. Not much more we can do to help until you do...

 

call Griot’s and ask them. I’m sure they can help seeing as it is their products.

 

Before they cure, they're easier to wipe off. But the benefits of a polymer sealant is that after it cures, it is harder to remove than a wax (which is why they last longer). If it wasn't, why would anybody choose it over a high quality caranuba wax?

 

I've been using polymer sealants for nearly 30 years. In my experience, the benefits of sealants over traditional carnauba-based waxes have been longer life (up to 6 months on a daily driven vehicle, 12 months on a garage queen), better protection, higher gloss, and that they tend not to leave as much white residue on black textured trim. Obviously the extent to which they benefits are realized largely depends on the product used. Personally I use Zaino, but there are many other decent alternatives.

Automotive coatings are completely different than waxes or sealants. When properly applied, the good ones offer much, much longer life, much better protection from the environment and chemicals, great gloss, are very hydrophobic, and can repel dirt in a way that's pretty amazing. Some are even semi self-healing (Kamikaze Zipang). However, they are much less forgiving to apply than waxes or sealants, water-spotting can be a problem, and if removal is necessary, it must be done mechanically (compounding). That said, I really like them on my daily drivers, and love them on wheels.

I'm really simplifying things here, but you apply a coating as a very thin and uniform layer, wait a few minutes for it to flash, then wipe off the excess completely. Removal of excess coating after it fully cures (referred to as "high spots") is pretty much impossible by wiping alone, even if the usual cleaners/chemicals are used. For this reason, the coating is typically removed from the affected panel (in most cases from the entire panel), cleaned, and reapplied.

If a coating was applied to the OP's taillight, and left to dry completely, I can understand how he'd have problems removing it. However, he says he just used some Griots paint sealant, which should not be hard to remove, even when cured, with the chemicals he's tried. Since we haven't actually seen what the problem is, about the only advice I can provide is to take the car to a professional detailer.