Changing brake fluid
Changing brake fluid
Heard that when you change the brake fluid every 2 years, it’s good idea to also change the clutch fluid and it uses the same fluid. I actually didn’t know clutch fluid was the same as brake fluid. For some reason I thought clutch fluid was a different type. Owners recommend Motul RBF 600. Although I don’t track my car, regular dot 5.1 might be good enough. I think I read about 3 bottles of the 500 ml so total 1.5L to do the brake and clutch fluid?
The brakes and clutch share the same reservoir, so when you flush one you have to flush the other (on the Vantage).
The manual calls for DOT4, but 5.1 is compatible and will raise the boiling point from 230 to 270 degrees.
I'll be using RBF600 when I have my clutch replaced next month. The better fluid is worth the extra $25, in my opinion.
Yes, 1.5L should be enough for a full flush.
The manual calls for DOT4, but 5.1 is compatible and will raise the boiling point from 230 to 270 degrees.
I'll be using RBF600 when I have my clutch replaced next month. The better fluid is worth the extra $25, in my opinion.
Yes, 1.5L should be enough for a full flush.
The brakes and clutch share the same reservoir, so when you flush one you have to flush the other (on the Vantage).
The manual calls for DOT4, but 5.1 is compatible and will raise the boiling point from 230 to 270 degrees.
I'll be using RBF600 when I have my clutch replaced next month. The better fluid is worth the extra $25, in my opinion.
Yes, 1.5L should be enough for a full flush.
The manual calls for DOT4, but 5.1 is compatible and will raise the boiling point from 230 to 270 degrees.
I'll be using RBF600 when I have my clutch replaced next month. The better fluid is worth the extra $25, in my opinion.
Yes, 1.5L should be enough for a full flush.
I haven't had mine 2 years yet, but yes, I will be doing that. It's part of the recommended service.
Rich at Redpants.lol sells 2-year service packages that include everything you need, minus the engine oil. As well as a bunch of other useful stuff.
Rich at Redpants.lol sells 2-year service packages that include everything you need, minus the engine oil. As well as a bunch of other useful stuff.
Brake/Clutch fluid is easy to replace with the right tools. I have both the pressure fill tank that fits on the brake fluid reservoir and the vacuum tank that you attach to the bleeder screw. Makes changing fluid a one person / painless job. Just never run out of fluid and let it run dry...
be warned, if you have ASM transmission, changing the clutch fluid is more complicated as the dealer has to use the AMDS to purge and operate the valves in the system.
my dealer is quoting me $200 for the brake and clutch fluid flush and replacement . im having it done this spring
my dealer is quoting me $200 for the brake and clutch fluid flush and replacement . im having it done this spring
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Do what the manufacturer recommends, which in this case is 2 years. You're not going to find anyone more qualified to make that call than the company that makes the car and supports the warranty.
Perhaps its a bit of an apples-to-oranges comparison, but I've been using HPS 5.0 on my daily 335i since they were first release a few years ago. From a [street] braking perspective, they're pretty awesome. Strong initial bite regardless of ambient temperature (very similar to OE BMW), linear, and easy to modulate. On the street, I've never felt like the car needs more brakes. However, they're nearly as dusty as OE BMW and the fronts squeal a bit....basically like a cross between the standard HPS and the HP+. Yes they were properly bedded and new OE BMW rotors were used.
For my V8V, I'll probably try Carbotech, as I want to retain as much initial bite as possible (something you give up a bit with the R4-S), but don't want to deal with excessive have-to-wash-my-wheels-after-every-drive dust. If Carbotech wasn't an option, I'd probably just use the standard HPS which generate much less dust, no noise, but have slightly less initial bite.
For my V8V, I'll probably try Carbotech, as I want to retain as much initial bite as possible (something you give up a bit with the R4-S), but don't want to deal with excessive have-to-wash-my-wheels-after-every-drive dust. If Carbotech wasn't an option, I'd probably just use the standard HPS which generate much less dust, no noise, but have slightly less initial bite.
I changed the brake fluid on my Vantage a few weeks ago.
I do it once a year with the regular oil change. The fluid is clear and looked fresh, compared to my M3 what was BLACK.
However to get to the point, I drained the clutch as well and really can feel a improvement in my clutch.
At least I think it feels better, what makes it already worth it.
I do it once a year with the regular oil change. The fluid is clear and looked fresh, compared to my M3 what was BLACK.
However to get to the point, I drained the clutch as well and really can feel a improvement in my clutch.
At least I think it feels better, what makes it already worth it.
Do it with the pads. As the pads wear, the fluid level goes down. If they flush fluid first, they'll top off the reservoir, and you'll have too much fluid in there when you depress the pistons for new pads. You don't want brake fluid spilling over onto your engine bay.






