Reverse & 1st gear issue.
Reverse & 1st gear issue.
Owner 2014 v8v sportshift.with almost 40k miles. Daily driver.
Sometimes in reverse and in 1st gear as I accelerate slowly the car jerks like 1 time. I know nothing of clutches. Curious if this is a clutch issue. Doesn't happen in any other gears. Feels like something is not catching then does and drives normal. Seems to happen on cold starts. Seems to drive fine the rest of the day. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Sometimes in reverse and in 1st gear as I accelerate slowly the car jerks like 1 time. I know nothing of clutches. Curious if this is a clutch issue. Doesn't happen in any other gears. Feels like something is not catching then does and drives normal. Seems to happen on cold starts. Seems to drive fine the rest of the day. Any suggestions? Thanks!
ok. Seems to drive great. Just on certain days it may do this. Yes clutch relearn at start up. Does it itself.
Do you have any records of past maint on the car? Is it the original clutch or has it been changed at some point ?
I saw the dealership test my car for my ASM issues. If you want you can try and mimic to see if the clutch acts up:
Hope this helps.
I saw the dealership test my car for my ASM issues. If you want you can try and mimic to see if the clutch acts up:
- Go up a steep hill and come to a full stop. Then go again. See if the clutch slips.
- While driving 30 mph shift to 6th and floor it till 70-mph and see if the clutch slips.
- Shift constantly and if the car refuses or rejects a shift command.
Hope this helps.
Do you have any records of past maint on the car? Is it the original clutch or has it been changed at some point ?
I saw the dealership test my car for my ASM issues. If you want you can try and mimic to see if the clutch acts up:
Hope this helps.
I saw the dealership test my car for my ASM issues. If you want you can try and mimic to see if the clutch acts up:
- Go up a steep hill and come to a full stop. Then go again. See if the clutch slips.
- While driving 30 mph shift to 6th and floor it till 70-mph and see if the clutch slips.
- Shift constantly and if the car refuses or rejects a shift command.
Hope this helps.
FWIW my 2009 with ASM...I had new clutch installed about 1500 miles ago... Mine does this usually on first shift or two on cold start...I think iit's just still cold and fluid needs to warm up a bit... I've never had a concern because other manual cars I've had can also do this initially when cold...
FWIW my 2009 with ASM...I had new clutch installed about 1500 miles ago... Mine does this usually on first shift or two on cold start...I think iit's just still cold and fluid needs to warm up a bit... I've never had a concern because other manual cars I've had can also do this initially when cold...
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I went with the OEM clutch installed from my local dealer... it was about $3600 all in...a bargain based on other quotes that are on the board...
I don't track it, run it hard and is not a DD... just a weekend car for spirited drives
I don't track it, run it hard and is not a DD... just a weekend car for spirited drives
My local dealers in NYC quoted me at a staggering $8000 for an OEM clutch. $8500 if i went with an aftermarket option.
I was able to get it down to roughly $6300 ($4000 AP Velocity Clutch + $2300$ Labor)
i'm not from england but i've got four manual sports cars, and a manual 1/2 pickup truck. and on occasion someone will pull up right behind me (like three feet behind me), at a light at an intersection with a severe incline on it. when that happens, it can be panic time and the flyoff handbrake can be used to good effect to make a clean getaway without any chance at all of rolling back into the that car.
and if you've wondered why aston chose to NOT put the handbrake between the front seats, it's because using this technique can become awkward if the shift hand and the hand that must manipulate the brake as described above, are the same hand. try it you'll see the advantages of the flyoff handbrake and the reasoning behind its location.
and if you've wondered why aston chose to NOT put the handbrake between the front seats, it's because using this technique can become awkward if the shift hand and the hand that must manipulate the brake as described above, are the same hand. try it you'll see the advantages of the flyoff handbrake and the reasoning behind its location.
It's pretty normal for the single-plate Graziano gearbox from everything I've seen and read. Other cars of the era have the same issue with this box (early e-gear Gallardo most notably).
What you're experiencing isn't the gearbox, it's the engine approaching stall. Same as if you were in a manual car and slowed to a near standstill while still in gear.
It will happen when the car is cold most frequently because until the car warms to operating temperature, the idle RPM is significantly higher and therefore the automated clutch has to work a little harder to perform a low-speed shift, especially in reverse from a near standstill. The result is the engine approaching a stall. I've even had the car stall on me in reverse after a cold start on a winter day.
Give the car time to warm to operating temp and the RPMs will go down, and you'll notice smoother low-speed clutch operation. It'll never be perfect always, but it'll be much better. And definitely give the car a minute to do the clutch learn procedure on each cold start at the very least.
No reason to think you're approaching the end of your clutch life unless you're also experiencing slipping -- and you'll know it when that happens.
If you go back and read reviews of these cars when they were brand new, the low-speed operation of the clutch was always a major sticking point. It's a quirk of the car and from what I understand is remedied by an upgrade to a dual-clutch setup via the Velocity AP kit.
What you're experiencing isn't the gearbox, it's the engine approaching stall. Same as if you were in a manual car and slowed to a near standstill while still in gear.
It will happen when the car is cold most frequently because until the car warms to operating temperature, the idle RPM is significantly higher and therefore the automated clutch has to work a little harder to perform a low-speed shift, especially in reverse from a near standstill. The result is the engine approaching a stall. I've even had the car stall on me in reverse after a cold start on a winter day.
Give the car time to warm to operating temp and the RPMs will go down, and you'll notice smoother low-speed clutch operation. It'll never be perfect always, but it'll be much better. And definitely give the car a minute to do the clutch learn procedure on each cold start at the very least.
No reason to think you're approaching the end of your clutch life unless you're also experiencing slipping -- and you'll know it when that happens.
If you go back and read reviews of these cars when they were brand new, the low-speed operation of the clutch was always a major sticking point. It's a quirk of the car and from what I understand is remedied by an upgrade to a dual-clutch setup via the Velocity AP kit.
I would basically agree with thom_77, automated transmissions from this generation have certain problems to deal with drag torque during clutch operation. But this is of course a subjective experience, a certain jerking is perhaps normal. But if the problems get worse, there are three other components that are directly responsible for the clutch operation:
1. clutch solenoid valve (QPV) - a defective or slightly internally-leaking valve can result in delayed, jerky clutch engagement
2. leaking clutch slave cylinder (release bearing)
3. worn pressure accumulator - in this case, little or no hydraulic pressure can be called up from the pressure accumulator, the pump has to start up immediately and there is some delay and then jerky engagement. A worn pressure accumulator can be noticed by very frequent, short pumping cycles
1. clutch solenoid valve (QPV) - a defective or slightly internally-leaking valve can result in delayed, jerky clutch engagement
2. leaking clutch slave cylinder (release bearing)
3. worn pressure accumulator - in this case, little or no hydraulic pressure can be called up from the pressure accumulator, the pump has to start up immediately and there is some delay and then jerky engagement. A worn pressure accumulator can be noticed by very frequent, short pumping cycles
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