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My '05 DB9 is needing the A/C charged. I'll take it to an indy shop. Are there any quirks to getting this done? Any lessons learned from the group? Thanks.
Pretty standard R-134 system. 840Grams if memory serves. You could put a thermometer in the center dash vent, turn the system on full and record the temperature after about 20 minutes. Do the same after they are done. Mine blows 47 degrees and just did a full recovery, vacuum, fill.
I had to google it, but the 1940 Packard was the first car with factory air...
I would also recommend replacing the cabin air filters if they haven't been replaced lately. That will/can impact the efficiency of the AC quite a bit.
Yeah but you wouldn't be too far off expecting they'd put some special crap in it to make it cost $2500 for a recharge.
I have been meaning to check if it has a TXV (expansion valve) or if it is just a simple piston/capillary tube. It's old enough to be a piston (thankfully!)
Absolutely. There is a label in the engine bay that give the freon type (r-134) and the charge weight. 850 Grams of R-134. Sticker is on RHS shock tower.
If your servicer drains the oil, it uses 5 OZ of PAG-46
I've been having intermittent issues with my A/C in my 2009 DB9. If I am driving in traffic, on very hot days 85F and higher I notice that my A/C will sometimes all of a sudden stop blowing cold air until I turn off the A/C and turn it back on. Sometimes, it works again right away, sometimes it takes a few minutes. A shop had checked my A/C last summer and did not find any leaks and suggested that I not use recirculate as the condenser could be freezing over. The air is significantly colder on recirculate though. Any ideas?
I've been having intermittent issues with my A/C in my 2009 DB9. If I am driving in traffic, on very hot days 85F and higher I notice that my A/C will sometimes all of a sudden stop blowing cold air until I turn off the A/C and turn it back on. Sometimes, it works again right away, sometimes it takes a few minutes. A shop had checked my A/C last summer and did not find any leaks and suggested that I not use recirculate as the condenser could be freezing over. The air is significantly colder on recirculate though. Any ideas?
Condensers don’t freeze over , that’s where the heat rejection takes place . So if this is truly what the shop said then you need a different AC mechanic . The evaporator is the cold coil and if the AC is working correctly with proper airflow over it and correct refrigerant charge it shouldn’t freeze over either .
First thing I would check would be the cleanliness of the condenser . A dirty condenser full of bugs and road junk will quickly cut down on your AC’s ability to cool .
Condensers don’t freeze over , that’s where the heat rejection takes place . So if this is truly what the shop said then you need a different AC mechanic . The evaporator is the cold coil and if the AC is working correctly with proper airflow over it and correct refrigerant charge it shouldn’t freeze over either .
First thing I would check would be the cleanliness of the condenser . A dirty condenser full of bugs and road junk will quickly cut down on your AC’s ability to cool .
What’s the best way to clean the condenser? Use compressed air?
