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Do you feel a paint protection wrap like clear bra is worth it? Is it true they only last 5-7 years?
I'm in the DC Maryland region, i have a 2011 rapide, and quotes are looking around $2.1k - $2.5k for front only, and $8k - $10k for full car - is this close to what others have seen?
I have it on my 997 (car had it when I bought it) and I can say that it does work. Lifespan will vary depending on the quality of the film and the environment the car sees. If it's out in the sun all day every day it won't last as long as one that lives a garaged life but the film does eventually need to be replaced.
That said, I am not really a fan of the look. On my Virage I opted for a good polish, ceramic coating and only a little PPF here and there on the rockers and other low, rock prone areas.
The price you were quoted seems a little high to me but you didn't say whether that included paint correction, which should absolutely be done before any kind of paint protection is applied.
If you don't mind driving to Sterling, VA then I recommend GlasWerks. They worked on 3 of my cars. Full PPF using Stek film. It's pricey but for me it is worth it for peace of mind. Actually the PPF saved one of my Macan GTS doors from needing a respray -- the PPF was damaged but the paint underneath was good as new so I just had GlasWerks reapply new PPF to the door.
I am not a fan of it. For the Rapide, consider the front bumper and headlights as a start. If you like it, do more. Those two areas are independent of the the rest of the car. I would also replace the factory pieces as they are already showing their age.
I think what turns a lot of people off with PPF is not the PPF itself but how it was applied. A lot of installers (and 99% of dealers) use PPF kits with model-specific, pre-cut pieces of film which they apply like decals to the different panels. With this application, you can see the seams of the film. The seams eventually trap dirt (which is visible on the paint as a dark line) and can lead to the film peeling.
When I had PPF applied to my cars, the installer custom cut the film for each panel, allowing them to tuck the film into the corner gaps in the car. There are no visible seams and one would be hard pressed to tell that film was even applied. This is the way to go. Yes, it is a bit pricier to get custom work instead of applying the pre-cut film but it is worth it.
I had PPF installed at Morries Aston Martin in 2015 before they had their own dedicated shop - it was done next door at the Cadillac shop - all the dust and grit was showing, line edges everywhere and the mirrors were not aligned - bubbles everywhere. About the same time I complained, they had bought a dedicated shop with a dust free room, new dedicated employees, and excellent training. The re-do (free of course) was perfect. My 2017 V12S was done by an independent shop in California that Beverly Hills AM used - no seams anywhere - you could not tell there was any film applied. That was SunTek which I never heard of before then - pretty impressive though.
I think what turns a lot of people off with PPF is not the PPF itself but how it was applied. A lot of installers (and 99% of dealers) use PPF kits with model-specific, pre-cut pieces of film which they apply like decals to the different panels. With this application, you can see the seams of the film. The seams eventually trap dirt (which is visible on the paint as a dark line) and can lead to the film peeling.
When I had PPF applied to my cars, the installer custom cut the film for each panel, allowing them to tuck the film into the corner gaps in the car. There are no visible seams and one would be hard pressed to tell that film was even applied. This is the way to go. Yes, it is a bit pricier to get custom work instead of applying the pre-cut film but it is worth it.
Agreed. I have all my cars done by an OCD installer with bulk film. No seams - invisible! STEK or Xpel Ultimate. 10-year warranty.
A bit of a dated thread, but I'd love to hear from others that have put ppf on their DB9. I recently did a ceramic coating on my '21 X5 and covered the front portion with PPF. Loved the look so much that I turned around and had them finish the full car with PPF front to back. It's a new car so the paint was flawless, but now it's trapped in a perpetual polish that looks like glass. Anyway - it kicked me in the butt to get the same ceramic coating & ppf on my DB9, which they are now doing. I'll do the full car again with PPF from bumper to bumper. Based on how the X5 came out, I am really looking forward to picking up the Aston in a few days.
Not a DB9, but I just had the Vantage in for full paint correction followed by:
Full XPEL Ultimate Plus on the outside, XPEL Prime window tint (70% on windshield & 35% on the rest), followed by ceramic coat. The Vantage looks spectacular and the paint looks like it has considerably more depth to it. Most importantly, the PPF is wrapped around all edges for a superior look that won’t collect dirt.
The key is finding a quality installer with lots of experience. I had to travel 90 miles to find an installer that I trusted with the car and had confidence that the final product would be perfect. The installers workshop had several brand new vehicles including Rolls-Royce, Bentley, McLaren, Ferrari, MB etc.
Not a DB9, but I just had the Vantage in for full paint correction followed by:
Full XPEL Ultimate Plus on the outside, XPEL Prime window tint (70% on windshield & 35% on the rest), followed by ceramic coat. The Vantage looks spectacular and the paint looks like it has considerably more depth to it. Most importantly, the PPF is wrapped around all edges for a superior look that won’t collect dirt.
The key is finding a quality installer with lots of experience. I had to travel 90 miles to find an installer that I trusted with the car and had confidence that the final product would be perfect. The installers workshop had several brand new vehicles including Rolls-Royce, Bentley, McLaren, Ferrari, MB etc.
For whomever reads this list of postings I hope the below helps.
PPF is a tricky deal. If you read the comments to this thread you will see answers vary between owners. Many forum members have taken my advice on many of the topics discussed here. Do what you want and hopefully you will be happy. Do what I suggest and you will be happy for sure.
1. S-Tek film is the best for clarity on the market and lasts as long or longer than the others on the market. I would use no other, but Xpel is good also.
2. Get a paint correction done first on the whole vehicle. $1K for single stage correction, $1500 for a two stage correction done PROPERLY and by an expert is very very reasonable. Someone needing some business or is an expert part time like I was prices can be a bit lower. I have seen experts who had no clue to what they were doing and owned the business. You typically get what you pay for. Cheaping out on paint correction or PPF is NOT the way to go. They are not cheap and only and expert should be touching your vehicle.
3. Just get PPF done on the front end. Bumber, Hood, fenders, lights, mirrors. I would suggest rocker panels and behind the rear wheels that will add around $450 to the price for the front end. Nothing else. Use the savings for paint correction and ceramic coatings. 2-3k for a front end done right is absolutely the correct pricing. 8-10k for a full vehicle absolutely priced right. IF you are priced way below those numbers there are reasons why. I have seen in the DC area a brand new McLaren with film installed for at least 12k and the car was totally cut up by an installers knife. 99% of people would never know if that happened and it would be the second or third owner who would find out. Too late then. Remember the film is disposable, supposed to be removed 7-9 years after install and reapplied. Its not perfect. But what you are paying for is the installer themselves. They are the most important part about the process. There are also people on this forum who didn't take my advice and they paid a cheaper price, didn't ask proper questions, and they realize after the fact that had they asked or paid a higher price they would have had a better job done and a cleaner install. IF you just do what I suggested you will still need to properly wash and dry your vehicle to prevent swirls on the non PPF panels. My RRS had a Suntek filmed hood, STEK filmed rest of front end. Within 6 months the hood had light swirls on the film and I washed ONLY with microfiber towels and blew dry the paint with a Big Boi blower. I was very surprised. I polished the PPF and recoated with 22ple and it was perfect again. Point is you will have to take care of the rest of the vehicle without PPF.
4. Poster talking about pre-cut film not wrapping edges is misinformed which most customers are. I prefer to NOT put a knife anywhere on a vehicle that I don't have too. If your an expert (which many installers are not) cutting film on a vehicle is not a big deal. But a pre-cut plotted piece for a panel can be oversized for the pattern so that all the edges can be tucked, and then no knife is even needed except to trim in small areas. This is the most preferable way to install. Where bulk filming a panel means cutting all the edges. --------There are areas on a AM where I suggest to NOT wrap the edges. ie...wheel well edges; the edge is too tight and film tends to lift over time. Have the edge of the film come to the edge of the wheel well panel area and stop there. you wont see it and it wont lift. I also suggest removing badges and having them put back on over the film for a cleaner look. On older vehicles that have Ppf and dirt is at the edges, use a MF and Gyeon Prep and work the edge to remove dirt and wax buildup. If the dirt is under the edge then your film lifted and got dirty. Installer MUST avoid silvering, stretch marks, lift lines, and dust particles when installing. Ask those questions and ask their policy if you see them when picking up the vehicle. Also ask about bringing the vehicle back 2-4 weeks later for them to trim edges or fix lifted areas. (ie trim them up). IF you find silvering or lift lines do they replace the panel of film??? Ask these questions.
5. PPF Warranties ---- LMAO. They do warranty yellowing of the glue holding the film down for 10yrs now. It is NOT an issue and you wont likely own the vehicle that long anyway. So the Majority of the warranties cover defected film which the installer will catch before installation. So basically there is no warranty to worry about for purchasing. DO NOT base any decisions on warranties. They DO NOT cover installation and the manufacturers will just tell you to work it out with the installer.
10. Ceramic coatings ---- There are a TON of different coatings on the market. Glass, Ceramic, Quartz, they are all the same just different names. BUT, the product themselves are not the same, don't last the same time length, don't give the amount of gloss that is possible, and don't apply the same. Honestly if you are capable you can apply the coating yourself. Its not hard but it does take a bit of time and yes experience does help. Mistakes done by an installer sometimes are easily fixed, sometimes they are more difficult which you may or may not be able to without repolishing the panel. I suggest ONLY 22ple coatings or Kamikazee coatings. They are the absolute best on the market but proven over time. MAKE SURE you have the film, paint, trim, and WHEELs coated. Wheels off coating for the barrel and outside is mandatory!!!!! It will keep them perfect for years. IMHO the most critical place to coat on a vehicle.
I hope the above helps. There are many many years of reasons, experience, tested products, and knoledge gained by learning from some of the best in the country and owning a DB9 for years. Below the RRS has 22ple HPC coating on all surfaces after a perfection 30hr paint correction. The DB9 has STEK film on the front, 60hr paint correction, and Kamikazee coatings.
For whomever reads this list of postings I hope the below helps.
PPF is a tricky deal. If you read the comments to this thread you will see answers vary between owners. Many forum members have taken my advice on many of the topics discussed here. Do what you want and hopefully you will be happy. Do what I suggest and you will be happy for sure.
1. S-Tek film is the best for clarity on the market and lasts as long or longer than the others on the market. I would use no other, but Xpel is good also.
2. Get a paint correction done first on the whole vehicle. $1K for single stage correction, $1500 for a two stage correction done PROPERLY and by an expert is very very reasonable. Someone needing some business or is an expert part time like I was prices can be a bit lower. I have seen experts who had no clue to what they were doing and owned the business. You typically get what you pay for. Cheaping out on paint correction or PPF is NOT the way to go. They are not cheap and only and expert should be touching your vehicle.
3. Just get PPF done on the front end. Bumber, Hood, fenders, lights, mirrors. I would suggest rocker panels and behind the rear wheels that will add around $450 to the price for the front end. Nothing else. Use the savings for paint correction and ceramic coatings. 2-3k for a front end done right is absolutely the correct pricing. 8-10k for a full vehicle absolutely priced right. IF you are priced way below those numbers there are reasons why. I have seen in the DC area a brand new McLaren with film installed for at least 12k and the car was totally cut up by an installers knife. 99% of people would never know if that happened and it would be the second or third owner who would find out. Too late then. Remember the film is disposable, supposed to be removed 7-9 years after install and reapplied. Its not perfect. But what you are paying for is the installer themselves. They are the most important part about the process. There are also people on this forum who didn't take my advice and they paid a cheaper price, didn't ask proper questions, and they realize after the fact that had they asked or paid a higher price they would have had a better job done and a cleaner install. IF you just do what I suggested you will still need to properly wash and dry your vehicle to prevent swirls on the non PPF panels. My RRS had a Suntek filmed hood, STEK filmed rest of front end. Within 6 months the hood had light swirls on the film and I washed ONLY with microfiber towels and blew dry the paint with a Big Boi blower. I was very surprised. I polished the PPF and recoated with 22ple and it was perfect again. Point is you will have to take care of the rest of the vehicle without PPF.
4. Poster talking about pre-cut film not wrapping edges is misinformed which most customers are. I prefer to NOT put a knife anywhere on a vehicle that I don't have too. If your an expert (which many installers are not) cutting film on a vehicle is not a big deal. But a pre-cut plotted piece for a panel can be oversized for the pattern so that all the edges can be tucked, and then no knife is even needed except to trim in small areas. This is the most preferable way to install. Where bulk filming a panel means cutting all the edges. --------There are areas on a AM where I suggest to NOT wrap the edges. ie...wheel well edges; the edge is too tight and film tends to lift over time. Have the edge of the film come to the edge of the wheel well panel area and stop there. you wont see it and it wont lift. I also suggest removing badges and having them put back on over the film for a cleaner look. On older vehicles that have Ppf and dirt is at the edges, use a MF and Gyeon Prep and work the edge to remove dirt and wax buildup. If the dirt is under the edge then your film lifted and got dirty. Installer MUST avoid silvering, stretch marks, lift lines, and dust particles when installing. Ask those questions and ask their policy if you see them when picking up the vehicle. Also ask about bringing the vehicle back 2-4 weeks later for them to trim edges or fix lifted areas. (ie trim them up). IF you find silvering or lift lines do they replace the panel of film??? Ask these questions.
5. PPF Warranties ---- LMAO. They do warranty yellowing of the glue holding the film down for 10yrs now. It is NOT an issue and you wont likely own the vehicle that long anyway. So the Majority of the warranties cover defected film which the installer will catch before installation. So basically there is no warranty to worry about for purchasing. DO NOT base any decisions on warranties. They DO NOT cover installation and the manufacturers will just tell you to work it out with the installer.
10. Ceramic coatings ---- There are a TON of different coatings on the market. Glass, Ceramic, Quartz, they are all the same just different names. BUT, the product themselves are not the same, don't last the same time length, don't give the amount of gloss that is possible, and don't apply the same. Honestly if you are capable you can apply the coating yourself. Its not hard but it does take a bit of time and yes experience does help. Mistakes done by an installer sometimes are easily fixed, sometimes they are more difficult which you may or may not be able to without repolishing the panel. I suggest ONLY 22ple coatings or Kamikazee coatings. They are the absolute best on the market but proven over time. MAKE SURE you have the film, paint, trim, and WHEELs coated. Wheels off coating for the barrel and outside is mandatory!!!!! It will keep them perfect for years. IMHO the most critical place to coat on a vehicle.
I hope the above helps. There are many many years of reasons, experience, tested products, and knoledge gained by learning from some of the best in the country and owning a DB9 for years. Below the RRS has 22ple HPC coating on all surfaces after a perfection 30hr paint correction. The DB9 has STEK film on the front, 60hr paint correction, and Kamikazee coatings.
Additionally I would consider film above the windshield and A-pillars depending on the vehicle. I did have a MB E-class that fell victim to paint chips at the upper edge above the windshield.
Sheriff, thanks as always for sharing your specific recommendations. Very helpful as my Vantage ppf is coming up on 7 years and I’m working out what the optimal replacement process should be.
And my leaf blower finally died so I have no excuse not to take your previous advice on that subject 😏
