Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

Wish Me Luck!

Old Nov 15, 2021 | 05:10 AM
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Day three.....four months later. I tackled the springs. Front passenger side was first, happy that I didn't need to remove the front Liners off. Job was relatively straight forward following the step by step. Only issue I had was that my spring compressor was too large to fit into the small springs and just as a note, be very careful that you don't pull the brake line out after you remove the upper suspension arm. Another note, it says to torque the bolts after the car is at normal ride height which I assume is for a four post lift or something so I just jacked up the assembly until the pressure was off the QuickJack then did the final torquing. That is definitely an added PIA.

Driver side went in 1/3 the time as I knew what to do then it was on to the passenger side rear. Very easy other than having to really lever down the assembly to get the strut out. Guide didn't talk about the final torque being under load, but I figured that I would do it anyway the same as the fronts, by far passenger rear was the easiest.

Driver rear.......another story. That one was quite a ***** to work out with the additional stuff in the way but it came out eventually after lots of grunting and cursing.

Dropped the car off the QuickJack and noticed that the car was so low that the QuickJack was lowered all the way but still keeping the cars weight on it since I use the big rubber blocks it comes with and the machined jack point thingies that someone sells here. It was a Homer Simpson Doh moment. used a floor jack to lift the car an inch then removed the Quick Jack.
 
Old Nov 15, 2021 | 09:03 PM
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Nice work, thanks for posting. I am about to change the gear oil in my V8V and plan to use QuickJack and the same jackpads you used. This will be my first time jacking up this car and was wondering what I should put under the jackpads. I have 1" thick blocks of wood I cut to help lift another car without damaging the rockers with the QuickJack, but I think I'll copy you and use the rubber blocks that came with it. That should be stable enough.

If you can, please post pictures of the car lowered now, would be great to see. I am considering lowering my car, but do not want to have issues with scraping. Hope your father enjoys the new ride.
 
Old Nov 16, 2021 | 04:37 AM
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After you raise the car with the Quick Jack just put a piece of 2x6 under the tires so that when you lower the car it will be 1 1/2 in higher to get the Quick Jack off.
 
Old Nov 16, 2021 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by blue2000s
Unfortunately, a coolant system can't work that way. They have multiple passages so you can't vacuum or pressure bleed them like a brake system. If you wanted to pull off a bunch of hoses you might get most of the coolant out (not all though) but it's just not necessary. Again, the best way to do a flush to is to multiple changes.

I used this on my 996 turbo. Worked well:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...IaArMwEALw_wcB
 
Old Nov 16, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cadillacbart
I used this on my 996 turbo. Worked well:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...IaArMwEALw_wcB
I use these too. Mine's an airlift. These work great to purge air and refill. They don't drain.
 
Old Nov 16, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by blue2000s
I use these too. Mine's an airlift. These work great to purge air and refill. They don't drain.
Ahh- understood!
 
Old Nov 18, 2021 | 11:54 PM
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Great play-by-play here, I'm hoping you post some photos when you get it all done.

Quick question, though: I noticed in one of the posts you mentioned torquing the wheels to 80 ft-lbs. Are you under-torquing them because of the spacers?
 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalepsis
Great play-by-play here, I'm hoping you post some photos when you get it all done.

Quick question, though: I noticed in one of the posts you mentioned torquing the wheels to 80 ft-lbs. Are you under-torquing them because of the spacers?
For a 2010 I was under the impression that 80 ft-lbs was the spec.

​​​​​​https://www.sparkyexpress.ca/blogs/a...t-torque-chart
 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 06:04 AM
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80 ft-lbs seems very low, I usually put them at 130 ft-lbs and in most car I do 100-110 ft-lbs

 
Old Nov 19, 2021 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by usera
For a 2010 I was under the impression that 80 ft-lbs was the spec.

​​​​​​https://www.sparkyexpress.ca/blogs/a...t-torque-chart
The Aston shop manual specifies a run-in torque of 60 ft-lbs, then a final torque of:
100 ft-lbs for 22mm lug nuts
111 ft-lbs for titanium nuts
133 ft-lbs for 21mm nuts

I was surprised they are so high (I have the 21mm ones), but the 2-piece design of the stock wheel nuts allows them to be gorilla-tightened while still easily removable when you need to do maintenance.

I tried to attach the pdf of the workshop manual but it's too large a file. The downloadable version is floating around on the forum here somewhere...


 
Old Nov 21, 2021 | 06:19 AM
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Is this doc year specific? I know the 2006-2007 ones were to be torqued to 135 but everything else I see on line states 80 for 2010.
 
Old Nov 21, 2021 | 06:29 AM
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2009 Owner Manual

Wheel Nut Torque
Tighten every second nut until all
five nuts are tightened.
Tighten all wheel nuts in two
stages.
1. To 60 lb. / ft. (80 Nm.) in one
continuous movement.
2. To 133 lb. / ft. (180 Nm.) in
one continuous movement.
 
Old Nov 21, 2021 | 07:07 AM
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It's also in the 2010 owners manual available for free download on the aston martin owners site. Right next to tire pressures...

 
Old Nov 21, 2021 | 07:14 AM
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Thanks guys looks like I got some tightening to do!
 
Old Nov 21, 2021 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by usera
Thanks guys looks like I got some tightening to do!
No problem. I just didn't want you to have any wheel abandonment issues.
 
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