Two weeks ago, I started my 2009 V8V roadster up for the first time in a while, and it ran great. I started it about three times and drove for about 30 minutes on some errands. Nothing unusual, and again, car ran great. About 3-4 hours later, I tried starting it again and it won't turn over. Everything is powered and works (including the top), but the starter isn't getting any power (the starter solenoid isn't getting power either). Brought it to a local repair shop that I trust, and they think that there is no power being sent from the key module to the starter. They figured out that if you apply 12V to the 25 amp fuse in the engine compartment, the starter works and the car starts. Once running, it runs great. I'm not 100% sure that the battery is fine either at this point.

Do you think this could all be caused by the battery, or do you think the key module is faulty too?

I'm going to start with the battery since it is probably the cheapest and easiest fix, but just wanted to get a sense from the collective brain trust.

Thanks!

 

Have you tried a spare or additional key?

 

I've only got one key that is programmed (the other key I have isn't). I replaced the battery in the key. The car is recognizing the key. Once inserted, everything works, it just won't turn over. Once 12V is applied to the fuse, the car starts and runs fine. I would *think* that if the the key wasn't working, then the car would never start?

 

If you replaced the key battery, there is a chance the transponder chip fell out. Open both of the keys and make sure they are identical. A new key module is expensive so I would rule out a few things first.

 

Just following up- you said 12 v to the 25 AMP fuse starts the car. Was startup that with the shops remote starter or a direct connection ? I recall another forum user commenting that a loose connection behind the waterfall cause a starting/key problem. Hopefully your spare key works. I would not try to many things at once giving you a better chance to pinpoint the issue and not waste $. Having a shop you trust is great. Hopefully you'll be on the road soon!
Eventually, I'd go ahead and clear up your doubt about the condition of your cars 12 V battery. Depending on it's age, considering replacing it or at least having it properly tested. It sounds like you car was stored for a few months. I'm guessing with a battery tender as you said it started after storage.

 

I should have been more clear. I replaced the key battery after it began not starting. I figured it was an easy thing to rule out. The key is complete.

Thanks!

 

There's no remote start installed in the car.

The current procedure to start the car is to insert the key into the slot like normal (making sure the car is in neutral). Everything powers on like normal (just won't turn over). Next, apply 12V to the 25 amp fuse using a 12V power probe. This causes the starter to engage, and the car starts. Remove 12V from the 24 amp fuse, and everything is fine (car keeps running like normal). Take the key out, and the car turns off like normal.

This past winter I was an idiot and didn't have the car on a tender (though it was only from Dec. through March, and I did start it once of twice and let it run for a while). What's throwing me off is that the car did start initially several times, and I would have thought that if the battery was bad, it wouldn't have started initially at all. Having said that, I've experienced enough weird battery issues in my life to not rule it out. Plus, the last time I tried starting it with the 12V probe, the battery voltage didn't seem correct and it wouldn't start, but did start as soon I used some jump cables and the 12V probe.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll let you know when I figure it out.

 

I understand, battery only controls lock/unlock, lights etc. to start it's just the key and transponder chip. Assuming you don't get a flashing red lamp in the cluster PATS lamp. Your most likely looking at a docking station fault. Unfortunately they fail just like anything else.

-JW