Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

PCV issues continue

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Old May 20, 2021 | 11:38 AM
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PCV issues continue

PCV is still buzzin after 3 changes.
I was advised that the cause is bad valves/O-rings/Seals
I already changed the breather hose valve and o-ring
The oil pipe is leaking slightly and apparently its not that hard of a job so I am planning to do. Another similar situation is this "John Guest" easy access and leaking slightly.https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/.../catridge-assy-john...
and last advice was the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE recommendation.
No clue how or where to access to do this.
not sure either what's the difference: https://www.astonmartinbits.com/.../...age/parts/2955 - - https://www.astonmartinbits.com/.../...tage/parts/534
Any other o rings or seals that can be easily changed to ordered while am at it?
Last important point is if you guys can shed a light on how serious or worry free having issues with PCV buzzing (old one didn't buzz but it was factory for the car from 2007)
would a catch can make life simple or i would still need to figure this out
 
Old May 21, 2021 | 06:14 AM
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these usually have a spring inside
and if the spring is defective, can cause a buzz... perhaps the new PCV is defective?
 
Old May 21, 2021 | 08:08 AM
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Abdullah Salem is infamous around these parts
That is an issue, as I stated the original one for my 2007 vantage did not buzz but I changed it since they said some can go bad without buzzing
this is the 3rd new PCV valve. the 3rd one was from a different supplier (scuderia parts) and it came clean as a whistle I can smell the factory plastics and not a single residue and the usual tests of blowing and shaking for noise were there.
 
Old May 21, 2021 | 11:09 AM
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You can check crankcase vacuum, should be 17-22in Hg with a steady needle. If needle is steady, means no reason for the PCV to buzz/pulsate the internal diaphragm/spring ..to buzz would mean the diaphragm valve is split open or spring weak.

Sounds like you've received a bad batch of pcv’s, AM/JLR/Ford have had a bunch that are faulty out the box for years!!

Even though you've fitted 3, I’d still recommend getting another new PCV from a different vender/brand.

If you have seals leaking, obviously it would be recommended to replace any seals/gaskets with an issue. If you had excessive pressure causing the leaks from say piston rings..etc, you wouldn't have 17-22in Hg of vacuum and odds are you might hear a whistle from the leaking areas of cam cover.

The John Guest is easy, the oil pan/sump feed/return hose o-rings I recall needing to remove an A/C line from compressor, meaning that might not be a walk in the park unless you can service A/C.

The PRV requires dropping the subframe and removing the front timing cover. If it was faulty, the crankcase would buzz/squawk until oil pressure increases, I've never seen a mechanical issue with the noise occurrence. The updated PRV was only to stop the noise concern, not to better regulate pressure. Believe the early part provoking the noise was made of a metal while the replacement is of a plastic/abs/nylon type of material.

I tried the links to Astonbits, however links do not function.
 
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Old May 21, 2021 | 11:23 AM
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Abdullah Salem is infamous around these parts
Appreciate the info filled reply!
I do hear feint air escaping sound roughly near the PCV area but I do not recall how frequent it was there with which PCV.
Do you suggest I keep the original factory one installed back that does not buzz.
Was wondering if the oil catch can saves the pain or do I still need to figure out the PCV?
where exactly would you connect the crankcase vacuum ? (inlet or outlet of PCV or some other site?)
Lastly I never saw blue smoke and so far the only problem is the buzz not that much oil consumption should I drive the car or get this sorted ?
 
Old May 21, 2021 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Abdullah Salem
Appreciate the info filled reply!
I do hear feint air escaping sound roughly near the PCV area but I do not recall how frequent it was there with which PCV.
Do you suggest I keep the original factory one installed back that does not buzz.
Was wondering if the oil catch can saves the pain or do I still need to figure out the PCV?
where exactly would you connect the crankcase vacuum ? (inlet or outlet of PCV or some other site?)
Lastly I never saw blue smoke and so far the only problem is the buzz not that much oil consumption should I drive the car or get this sorted ?
You can remove the hose at back of the left cam cover and fit your gauge to the port for testing vacuum (might need to block the sump tank port leading to this hose, depending on sump tank oil level bleeding vacuum from an open source).

Sure, if the old PCV had no issues, pinch the o-rings from a new one and transfer to the old unit that was not buzzing to re-install.
 
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Christopher Edgett
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Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com

www.velocityap.com



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