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Just had my left brake light fail last night. Fun!
I searched on the forums and it seems like there are some solutions on fixing the circuit board and talks about trying to get Aston Corp to Fix these things? Has there been any movement / progrss on this?
I was thinking about buying new taillights (clear) but it seems as if they have not fixed the issue. Is there someone who has fixed these and has instructions or step by step?
Any recommendations on the path forward?
1) Buy used and replace the one bc buying new will have the same problem.
2) Fix the circuit board if possible.
3) Buy a new red taillight (broken side only).
4) Buy a new set (always wanted to try clear with black surround)
5) Sell the car
If anyone has a picture of a tungsten silver with clear lights with black surround and carbon inserts, I would love to see your pics to see if that is the route I want to go. I wanted to purchase clears but never justified it until now.
* Kicker, cop gave me a work order so I have 30 days to fix this or replace before they suspend my registration.
I know its the same cost as replacement OEM lamps and you will incur some shipping costs, but this will most certainly be my option when mine eventually fail.
I know its the same cost as replacement OEM lamps and you will incur some shipping costs, but this will most certainly be my option when mine eventually fail.
Find a good used one to fix the 30 day ticket. I Believe that NEW red lamps cost more than the clears. Order a carbon clear set from Scud or AM bits don't forget the CHMSL to match when your ready for the upgrade. As long as they are installed correctly with gaps they should not fail.
Lat year I took a PCM (powertrain control module) to this group located in Greenville, SC. I drove down from Charlotte and can attest to this being a real business which treated me well. The PCM was not from my Vantage but, given the inevitable need for it, I did ask about a potential Aston tail light circuit board fix. They expressed a definite interest and had already tackled some other lighting board repairs, Cadillac and BMW I think. Ultimately I dropped the ball on passing on more info to them about the specific problem and helping secure a donor unit. I had also planned to steer them to some relevant 6speed and PH threads just to reinforce the potential market size not to mention the cost issue. FYI their cost to fix the PCM board was $225.
May not help your immediate situation but these guys should be worth a call.
Find a good used one to fix the 30 day ticket. I Believe that NEW red lamps cost more than the clears. Order a carbon clear set from Scud or AM bits don't forget the CHMSL to match when your ready for the upgrade. As long as they are installed correctly with gaps they should not fail.
Yes, that is what I am leaning towards or calling the MVA and asking for an extension so that I can order some clear taillights and wait for the long customs process. When you say "as long as your install them correctly", I've heard people say that if you torque the bolts too tight it flexes the plastic thus separating the seal. Is there anything else you recommend as the correct way to install them? I don't even know where the weak points are.
Lat year I took a PCM (powertrain control module) to this group located in Greenville, SC. I drove down from Charlotte and can attest to this being a real business which treated me well. The PCM was not from my Vantage but, given the inevitable need for it, I did ask about a potential Aston tail light circuit board fix. They expressed a definite interest and had already tackled some other lighting board repairs, Cadillac and BMW I think. Ultimately I dropped the ball on passing on more info to them about the specific problem and helping secure a donor unit. I had also planned to steer them to some relevant 6speed and PH threads just to reinforce the potential market size not to mention the cost issue. FYI their cost to fix the PCM board was $225.
May not help your immediate situation but these guys should be worth a call.
This is great news. Thanks for that information. With the amount of failure, one of the things that I was not happy about was that this still exists in 2017/18 MY so they obviously haven't fixed this problem since its inception in 2006. Once I get out of my situation of scrambling to find or order one (due to my 30 day work repair), I plan to reverse engineer this and try to fix this ****ty issue that Aston refuses to cover or fix. I will contact that company and see if I can send them my taillight as a donor. I know there are a few guys on the V8/V12 FB forum that are working on fixing the PCM and I was going to team up with them to see if we can figure this out at a reasonable cost for others.
The service manager told me that if the lights are going to leak, they usually leak right away. Mine have never leaked, but I have never driven in the rain and the climate here is dry. Hard to believe Aston never addressed this problem years ago. You will find the tail lights have a ridiculous amount of adjustment. The leaking problem could be due poor installation and over stressing the glued seams.
The service manager told me that if the lights are going to leak, they usually leak right away. Mine have never leaked, but I have never driven in the rain and the climate here is dry. Hard to believe Aston never addressed this problem years ago. You will find the tail lights have a ridiculous amount of adjustment. The leaking problem could be due poor installation and over stressing the glued seams.
Yes it is absolutely frustrating that they have not fixed this issue. I did hear that if you overtighten them it could pull apart the glue. I have also seen people add extra silicone to the housing prior to installing a new one because of the leaking. I may have to do that.
Install should have 3-5mm gaps to the bodywork and as mentioned go easy on the mounting torque of the lamp. Critical part is the leading edge to quarter panel to ensure it doesn't open the lamp seal.
Had one of the rear taillights on our 2007 die after driving through a heavy rainstorm. It got some condensation in it during the storm and about 2 months later it died. Took that as a sign to replace both sides with the clear lenses with black accent trim. Got them from Redpants
Before I put them in I did put an extra bead of silicone around the seam between the lense and housing.
And as a couple of mentioned, you want to be careful when tighting the fasteners, especially the one on each lense closest to the leading edge., where the lense starts to wrap around the quarter panel. Too tight and it will put pressure on the lenses causing it to separate from the housing.
Install should have 3-5mm gaps to the bodywork and as mentioned go easy on the mounting torque of the lamp. Critical part is the leading edge to quarter panel to ensure it doesn't open the lamp seal.
-JW
Perfect, this is what I am seeing a lot. I don't think my taillights were ever changed so it came factory from Aston over torqued? Thanks!
Originally Posted by kdm
Had one of the rear taillights on our 2007 die after driving through a heavy rainstorm. It got some condensation in it during the storm and about 2 months later it died. Took that as a sign to replace both sides with the clear lenses with black accent trim. Got them from Redpants
Before I put them in I did put an extra bead of silicone around the seam between the lense and housing.
And as a couple of mentioned, you want to be careful when tighting the fasteners, especially the one on each lense closest to the leading edge., where the lense starts to wrap around the quarter panel. Too tight and it will put pressure on the lenses causing it to separate from the housing.
That is my plan for the new ones, watch the torque on the lens, keep a small gap (the water that runs down the trunk line goes into the housing), and apply silicone caulk sealer around the lens/housing. Hope this works!
I've either read here or was told at the dealership the trick is in the install of the lights. At least if the dealer installs it, there's a 1 year on parts and service if it fails.
