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my suspicion is that the power supply to the m12volt needs to be continuous (they did mention it in the instructions IIRC) and many people knowlingly or unknowlingly install it to a switched power source. i know i did it knowingly. as i simply didn't want any additional power drain on the battery when the car wasn't running. it would have been relatively easy to add a switch but i didn't want to bother. i may, in the future, if the current performance issues, which are rare, reach an annoyance level with which i am not comfortable.
A question: Does to bluetooth disconnect automatically when you turn off the engine/lock the car whatever if it's connected to a continous power supply?
It's quite annoying otherwise to always have to manually disconnect the bluetooth when getting in/out of the car.
if the power supply is truly continuous then mr12volt would not be affected, i wouldn't think. it would lose the connection to the stereo but not necessarily to any device (usually one's cell phone i would think) connected to it. i DO think the only reason that the instructions call for a continuous power supply is that there are a few connection parameters that will be lost if power is switched off (the CD player that it's connected to comes to mind) and would necessitate what is essentially a re-boot when the power supply was restored.
and as i alluded to in my previous post, it's the rebooting along with one's bluetooth device that WAS connected to it that may be the culprit responsible for the occasional inability to perform correctly after a brief engine stop/start, and if so, i can only assume that volvo used a continuous power supply in their cars. ...again i'm just guessing.
to be honest, i don't use the mr12volt unit in my vantage much anymore. neither do i use the perfectly serviceable bluetooth option in another sports car as the aftermarket stereo system a previous owner installed is horrendous, not to mention the road noise created by the car itself. additionally, i own three other vehicles that have either poor stereos, no bluetooth and/or no stereos at all. as a consequence, i bought a set of bose noise-cancelling headphones. they connect directly to my phone and the fidelity is superior all others.
2007 Vantage with factory Bluetooth and factory navigation.
Wondering how the Mr.12 Volt Bluetooth installations turned out. Where there any problems with the factory navigation unit?
I ask because their website states.
"For radio that comes with navigation, the Nav module must be disconnected by using the loop connector. Otherwise, the P600 would not work properly"
Does this mean that the Mr.12 Volt Bluetooth unit cannot work with the factory navigation?
There are a few issues that I have discovered during my one year of use.
1. The bluetooth does not turn off with the car. So when you lock the car and walk away the phone is still connected, and that is annoying. Installing it on the ligther socket kind of work, but not really. The socket is powered for a while after shut down and keeping the unit alive a couple of minuites.
Alternative is to take power from a constant 12V source but then you have the option of either connect the phone manually each time you drive the car OR always have the phone connect automatically when you are in range (and in doing so always routing the calls through the car speakers, even while you're in the kitchen).
Alternatively find a power source that turns of with ignition.
Either way it's a neucence. I have it connected to ligher socket power.
2. Coupled with the above problem, the unit seem to be living it's own life and I have not recognized a exact pattern to the behaviour. Usually it works flawlessly. Start up the car, phone automatically connects and starts playing music.
Sometimes, usually after a short stop to refuel or the like, it just wont work. No sound.
What I *THINK* is happening is that if you turn the car of and do a quick refueling, the unit is not powered down (see point 1 above) but still loses connection with the fiber optic side.
After that it will not reset the fiber link when you start the car again and just be in limbo. If you take your time and don't start the car until the ligher socket has powered down (and in so the unit) then it works as it should.
3. I tried disconnecting the NAV unit, but no differance in preformance. I also tried installing the Mr12V unit in it's place and it worked like above, no differance.
So, in theory you should be able to install the Mr12V in the back with the NAV unit instead of removing the waterfall panels. Either way, I have the NAV unit installed as usual.
I will try to connect my Mr12V unit to a powersource that is turned off with ignition when spring comes. If it will work, I don't really know but I think it will solve all connection problems.
Is the unit worth it? Yes. Yes it is. I have premium audio in my 07 vantage and damn it really sounds premium now. The advanced audio features that the sound system has does not (at least in sweden) work with FM radio.
Thanks for the quick reply. I have front and rear cameras with those connected via a unit in the trunk piggy backed on the Nav unit, so installation would be behind the CD. Still not sure why the manufacturer recommends bypassing the Nav module.
I separated audio from video/ nav... the stock nav system! Screen resolution and location is rubbish.
I have front and rear camera into a rear view mirror. I have alexa for voice control and bluetooth streaming and phone all works flawlessly through premium stereo.
I have Mr. 12volt installed in my early production (no. 1799) 2005 DB-9 with the 950 watt Linn system. I use it for Bluetooth audio streaming and, via the analog aux input, to hook an old aftermarket Sirius XM receiver into the Linn. The sound quality is quite good and it’s definitely an upgrade over the stock system. However, it’s operation includes some irritating idiosyncrasies, the most prevalent being its refusal to stay connected with the Volvo-sourced MOST fiber optic infotainment network.
The installation instructions say it is “critical” to connect to an unswitched (continuous) power source. It’s not critical. In fact it’s useless as it neither causes nor solves the MOST disconnection problem. Within a few minutes of switching the ignition off, pretty much the entire CEM fuse panel (passenger footwell) powers down. Only the primary input fuses (40-60 amp) are permanently powered. I tapped into one of those to power the Mr. 12v and it’s made no difference.
The “erratic” nature of the connection is actually quite predictable. Once the MOST network powers down, the connection is lost until the Mr. 12v is reset, which is done by switching the power to the Mr. 12v off and then back on. The MOST doesn’t switch on and off with the stereo. On my DB-9 it powers down after a couple of minutes, at the same time as the courtesy lights. So if I turn the car off and then back on again, the MOST and Mr. 12v stay connected. Wait too long, and the connection disappears.
To reliably restore communication, the Mr. 12v has to be reset AFTER the MOST has powered back up. If Mr.12v is just left on, the display appears to show a connection but there is no sound. With my car the sequence is start the car, turn on the stereo (if not on already), and then reset Mr. 12v. After a few seconds the music starts playing.
To conveniently reset Mr. 12v I installed a small button switch inside the power port cubby in the center console (see pic).
I have Mr. 12volt installed in my early production (no. 1799) 2005 DB-9 with the 950 watt Linn system. I use it for Bluetooth audio streaming and, via the analog aux input, to hook an old aftermarket Sirius XM receiver into the Linn. The sound quality is quite good and it’s definitely an upgrade over the stock system. However, it’s operation includes some irritating idiosyncrasies, the most prevalent being its refusal to stay connected with the Volvo-sourced MOST fiber optic infotainment network.
The installation instructions say it is “critical” to connect to an unswitched (continuous) power source. It’s not critical. In fact it’s useless as it neither causes nor solves the MOST disconnection problem. Within a few minutes of switching the ignition off, pretty much the entire CEM fuse panel (passenger footwell) powers down. Only the primary input fuses (40-60 amp) are permanently powered. I tapped into one of those to power the Mr. 12v and it’s made no difference.
The “erratic” nature of the connection is actually quite predictable. Once the MOST network powers down, the connection is lost until the Mr. 12v is reset, which is done by switching the power to the Mr. 12v off and then back on. The MOST doesn’t switch on and off with the stereo. On my DB-9 it powers down after a couple of minutes, at the same time as the courtesy lights. So if I turn the car off and then back on again, the MOST and Mr. 12v stay connected. Wait too long, and the connection disappears.
To reliably restore communication, the Mr. 12v has to be reset AFTER the MOST has powered back up. If Mr.12v is just left on, the display appears to show a connection but there is no sound. With my car the sequence is start the car, turn on the stereo (if not on already), and then reset Mr. 12v. After a few seconds the music starts playing.
To conveniently reset Mr. 12v I installed a small button switch inside the power port cubby in the center console (see pic).
This is exactly my experience with the Mr12v bluetooth unit and why it is no longer installed.
I forgot to mention that the nav system doesn’t seem to be a factor, positive or negative. My nav system has been removed entirely from the MOST network ( I use a Garmin stand-alone unit) and still have the connection issue.
While I am fortunate to not need the Mr 12 Volt in my Aston, i have their newest unit installed in my BMW Z4. It uses the MOST connection for audio instead of the aux input and works flawlessly. My guess is that it might need continous power to a component on the MOST ring. perhaps you should try connecting thy 12v continuous wire to the power lead to the MOST component, that way when the MOST ring powers down it also 'resets' the Mr.12 volt box.
While I am fortunate to not need the Mr 12 Volt in my Aston, i have their newest unit installed in my BMW Z4. It uses the MOST connection for audio instead of the aux input and works flawlessly. My guess is that it might need continous power to a component on the MOST ring. perhaps you should try connecting thy 12v continuous wire to the power lead to the MOST component, that way when the MOST ring powers down it also 'resets' the Mr.12 volt box.
That’s a great idea. Unfortunately, I have no clear idea where the MOST primary brain/router is located and the factory shop manual is silent on this subject. My guess is that if the CD player was left on, I’d probably never lose the connection. However, the last time I messed with the wiring in that area I lost my windshield wipers and it took months to track down the weak connection pin in the wiring harness that caused it. The wiring in that area now is behind a mental/virtual barricade labeled “no entry.” 😀 plus, I’d be drawing the battery more than I’d like.
That’s a great idea. Unfortunately, I have no clear idea where the MOST primary brain/router is located and the factory shop manual is silent on this subject. My guess is that if the CD player was left on, I’d probably never lose the connection. However, the last time I messed with the wiring in that area I lost my windshield wipers and it took months to track down the weak connection pin in the wiring harness that caused it. The wiring in that area now is behind a mental/virtual barricade labeled “no entry.” 😀 plus, I’d be drawing the battery more than I’d like.
i would guess you just need to find a MOST device and tap that power lead. Maybe Go to Aston1936 site
i would guess you just need to find a MOST device and tap that power lead. Maybe Go to Aston1936 site
oh, I now understand what you’re thinking. It doesn’t work. I first powered the Mr 12 by tapping into the nav display power, which has the delayed power off . Still had the disconnect problem. I thought you were suggesting I should leave the MOST network permanently on, along with the Mr. 12, which would mean they never have the opportunity to disconnect. Problem is that I’m not sure which power wire in the harness that I’d have to splice into and I’ve banned my clumsy hands from messing in that area any more.
But thanks for the idea.
