DB9 Camshaft position sensor wiring
DB9 Camshaft position sensor wiring
My db9 is throwing a p0340. I have already replaced the sensor itself and the 2 wires to the ecu checked out OK when it comes to resistance. I want to check the earthing but not sure where it should connect to the earth point. Can any tell me where to check?
It also show p0356, which is ignition coil. I have swapped over the ignition coil with another and the fault remains. Since it shares the earthing with the camshaft sensor I suspect this might be the issue.
It also show p0356, which is ignition coil. I have swapped over the ignition coil with another and the fault remains. Since it shares the earthing with the camshaft sensor I suspect this might be the issue.
On my 3 pin 2006 ignition coil there is a ground on the intake manifold/head near the back of the block. The coil wiring comes from the block to the back of the block and then goes left (or right) to the left or right ecu.
FWIW, I was getting similar unrelated sensor errors on mine. I pulled the front fender liner and took a look at where the wiring comes into the ECU. There was a lot of tension on the connector as the wires were sagging down. I removed the connector, put pressure on the wires to put them back into their individual connector and then re-hung the loom to avoid putting tension on the 40+ connectors. Since then (knocking on desk), I have not had any errors.
I also learned on my M5 to raise the hood after use to let it cool off. The hall effect sensors don't like heat as the high temperature causes the magnet to lose it's magnetism. My V12 feels like a furnace when I pop the hood. If you park indoors, it's worth considering.
FWIW, I was getting similar unrelated sensor errors on mine. I pulled the front fender liner and took a look at where the wiring comes into the ECU. There was a lot of tension on the connector as the wires were sagging down. I removed the connector, put pressure on the wires to put them back into their individual connector and then re-hung the loom to avoid putting tension on the 40+ connectors. Since then (knocking on desk), I have not had any errors.
I also learned on my M5 to raise the hood after use to let it cool off. The hall effect sensors don't like heat as the high temperature causes the magnet to lose it's magnetism. My V12 feels like a furnace when I pop the hood. If you park indoors, it's worth considering.
Thanks for the response, I've checked the wiring to the ecu and this should be all fine. Also i made sure the connector plugs are properly seated.
Checking the wiring schedule, it shows having a shared earth point with the ignition coil. Any idea where this earthing point connects?
Checking the wiring schedule, it shows having a shared earth point with the ignition coil. Any idea where this earthing point connects?
There are 6 earth points on the fire wall, IIRC, 3 on each side, each with multiple small gauge ground wires attached. They are highly visible low down and then get progressively more covered by stuff as you get further up. Each of these can get corroded and the wires aren't particularly well protected. The wiring harness for the engine electronics uses these grounds. There is also one on the back side of the head/block on each side. If you look at a used wiring harness on ebay that can be helpful for figuring out how long the ground wires are and where they are located. Take a look, clean them up and make sure the wires are firmly attached.
Those are the grounds on the back of the heads. I wonder if you have a failing connector (the white ones in the picture).
So frustrating. I would be tempted to add an additional ground wire directly to the cps & coil. Splice it in with the stock ground. 16-18 awg, high temperature (automotive grade) would work well. If you can twist and then solder it would be best. Put a heat shrink tube, or plastic dip coating on it.
The other frame grounds are up and down the firewall on either side of the engine as described above.
Good luck - without a doubt the most frustrating type of gremlin to chase.
So frustrating. I would be tempted to add an additional ground wire directly to the cps & coil. Splice it in with the stock ground. 16-18 awg, high temperature (automotive grade) would work well. If you can twist and then solder it would be best. Put a heat shrink tube, or plastic dip coating on it.
The other frame grounds are up and down the firewall on either side of the engine as described above.
Good luck - without a doubt the most frustrating type of gremlin to chase.
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Sorry i know this is dated, but wondering if someone has resolved this? I just replaced my spark plugs/engine coils / injectors and just like the original OP, I am getting a P0340 for the CID sensor and also a DTC error code for ignition coil 1. I removed all the DTC codes and unplug the battery. Planning to reconnec tthe battery tomorrow ( doing a reset ) but unsure that will work..
I am getting crank position sensor issues. Replaced the sensor, cleaned the connections and the problem persists. Will mention groundings to my mechanic. He tends to think it may be ECM related.
Something like codes P0012 / P0013 / P0014 / P0019?
Do you need to remove the manifolds in order to replace the camshaft sensors?
I don't recall my DB9 (06) having camshaft position sensors as it doesn't have variable valve timing. The crankshaft sensor is located in the front of the engine block somewhere near the crankshaft
. This diagram shows them as part #6
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par.../151/668/23917
Note that only one is actually connected... Another mystery of AM that there are two. Presumably at some point both ECMs required the crank position to fire.
. This diagram shows them as part #6https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par.../151/668/23917
Note that only one is actually connected... Another mystery of AM that there are two. Presumably at some point both ECMs required the crank position to fire.
I don't recall my DB9 (06) having camshaft position sensors as it doesn't have variable valve timing. The crankshaft sensor is located in the front of the engine block somewhere near the crankshaft
. This diagram shows them as part #6
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par.../151/668/23917
Note that only one is actually connected... Another mystery of AM that there are two. Presumably at some point both ECMs required the crank position to fire.
. This diagram shows them as part #6https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par.../151/668/23917
Note that only one is actually connected... Another mystery of AM that there are two. Presumably at some point both ECMs required the crank position to fire.
i guess to access number 6 i would need to lift the car to access underneath, but at least i am glad no need to deal with the manifolds





