Hi!

EDIT: I'm typing this on my phone and not an native english speaker, sorry about eventual spelling errors.

Also, this is a 2007 V8 Vantage but it's the same compressor in the DB9.

I had a problem with a real noisy bearing for the AC compressor. The AC worked fine and there were no other issues, so dumping about 1k in a new compressor + labour was out of the question.

I could not find any info about the procedure or bearing type for this compressor so I decided to take it apart and take a few pics for anyone else wanting to do this.

The job was VERY easy once I figured it out. Took about 30 minuites, a large part of that was to get the car on jackstands.

Tools required:
+ Torx (40 I think) & Philips screwdriver to remove front undertray cover.
+ 3/8 longer ratchet (mine was about 600mm) to remove feadbelt, easy from underneath.
+ Spanner for anglegrinder nut (yes, thats correct).
+ 7mm 1/4 socket and ratchet, it's a bit too tight for bigger tools and a ringspanner will not work since the "bolt" is countersunk.
+ External snap ring pliers, a small flat screwdriver (non of my pliers opened enough, a screwdriver helps a lot).
+ Some way to press or tap out the bearing, mandrel or hydraulic press.
+ Mandrel to deform the bearing seat after installation of new bearing or a good bearing retainer fluid.
+ And ofcourse, a new bearing. The bearing size is 35 x 52 x 20, and should be a sealed bearing (2RS).

After removing undertray, the AC unit is located to the bottom left on the front of the engine. Use the 3/8 long ratchet to release the tension of the feadbelt from underneath and remove the belt from the compressor pulley before releasing the tensioner again. I just put the belt to the side, did not remove it more than from the compressor.


Complete compressor


This is the funny part. The AC clutch is a bit nasty to get hold of to prevent rotating when loosening the center screw. Use the anglegrinder spanner to get hold of the thin plates on the clutch and then rotate the center 7mm hex clockwise to remove the clutch plate from the compressor. After a few tries I got the hang of it without slipping.




Sidenote: The center 7mm hex is actually the compressor shaft. When rotating this you push out the clutch plate, the clutch plate acts as a nut.

Next, there is a spring retainer ring that holds the pully and bearing on the compressor, remove this ring and gently tappity-tap on the pulley from behind to push it of the spigot on the compressor. Take it easy as the spigot is aluminium and you don't want to deform the pulley.


Pulley without cluch plate.

The bearing is retained in the pulley by pressed deformations in the housing. These deformations can be removed by rotating file or the like, but I just pressed out the bearing as it was and let the bearing outer ring push back the deformations. Took about 250 kg pressure so nothing crazy or scary.


Bearing removed from pulley, nothe the marks from the deformations.

Press out the bearing and clean the pulley before inserting a new one. I deformed the material as it was from original to retain the new bearing, but can be done with bearing retainer fluid aswell.


New bearing and pushed in deformations again.

Clean the clutch friction areas with breakcleaner before assembling again in reverse order. Take care not to spray the new bearing too much.

That's it!

Some misc. pics:


Clutch plate

All cluch parts removed.

Backside of clutch plate

New bearing with designation.

 

You typed all this on a PHONE?
Well done.

 

Excellent information! Thank you!

 

Good information, thanks for sharing and including photos!