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Is there a way to test the O2 sensor's to c if they are working correctly? Also are the heated sensor's? on a 2009 DBS with 16,500 miles. I was told they are probably Ford sensor's?
Yes, as V8VDrew suggests, the voltage pattern for the front sensors which control the fuel trims is an oscillating one traveling in the range of 0.1 to 1.0 volts, with .45v representing stoichiometric fueling (14.7:1).
One of the simplest charts I like to reference is this one. No O2 sensor will look like the suggested perfect pattern, but closest to it is a good sensor. Both engine and sensor must be up to operating temps.
Here is a real example of the O2 front sensor outputs. This came from a car I was tuning. In this particular live data screen catch, engine was idling. The O2 sensor STFTs outputs are shown in the fourth row as light blue and purple. Here I have the scale set to %s and not actual voltages but the pattern is the same. This is a healthy O2 pattern.
Thanks. when I get a chance I will have to drive the car around to get up to temp, then hook up to the meter when at idle and see what it reads. Thanks again
Is there a way to test the O2 sensor's to c if they are working correctly? Also are the heated sensor's? on a 2009 DBS with 16,500 miles. I was told they are probably Ford sensor's?
I do not disagree with the previous posts on how to test the sensors. But I have a different take on what I would do in your situation. These are standard Ford / Motorcraft sensors and there is a new universal part that fits them all - both upstream and downstream - DY1401. In order to test the sensors you have to access the connectors which is a bit of a PITA for the upstream ones. If you’re going to do that anyway, I would simply spring for a set of new Motorcraft ones and replace them all. You do not have to buy expensive Aston Martin parts for this.
I do not disagree with the previous posts on how to test the sensors. But I have a different take on what I would do in your situation. These are standard Ford / Motorcraft sensors and there is a new universal part that fits them all - both upstream and downstream - DY1401. In order to test the sensors you have to access the connectors which is a bit of a PITA for the upstream ones. If you’re going to do that anyway, I would simply spring for a set of new Motorcraft ones and replace them all. You do not have to buy expensive Aston Martin parts for this.
Edit - yes they are heated sensors.
This IS a very good idea. I access data via the OBD port, but I'm using hack SW and not everyone can do it that way. Maybe even better just starting out fresh.
I was thinking that was a lot of work to access the sensor's and test while running. I also read an article on the Ford O2 sensor's. On replacing the sensor's , would that be all 4 up front? Or are there 4 more near the cats? Thanks