Fuse 8 keeps blowing - Vantage S '13
Fuse 8 keeps blowing - Vantage S '13
My Sportshift V8 Vantage S had a new ASM pump 3 months before I bought it. Fitted by Aston Martin main dealer.
Every time I put the key in, start the car and try to select a gear I get a gearshift not possible warning.
Every time I look at Fuse 8 it as blown, if I replace it with a new one it immediately blows again.
Garage has told me that the ASM pump looks new, but is not making the sound an ASM pump should make therefore probably needs replacing.
My clutch is showing at about 85% worn and showing no signs of failing.
You can drive the car but probably get about 3 miles before the fuse and sometimes relay blows.
Has anyone had this issue or have any theories on what it could be?
Thanks
Every time I put the key in, start the car and try to select a gear I get a gearshift not possible warning.
Every time I look at Fuse 8 it as blown, if I replace it with a new one it immediately blows again.
Garage has told me that the ASM pump looks new, but is not making the sound an ASM pump should make therefore probably needs replacing.
My clutch is showing at about 85% worn and showing no signs of failing.
You can drive the car but probably get about 3 miles before the fuse and sometimes relay blows.
Has anyone had this issue or have any theories on what it could be?
Thanks
Depending on how long you have owned it (under 1year)? It should have a warranty thru a franchise dealer on the pump replacement. The response from the diagnostic saying the pump sounds funny actually sounds like a funny experiment. Has the relay for the pump been changed also? You stated it had blown along with the fuse.
Depending on how long you have owned it (under 1year)? It should have a warranty thru a franchise dealer on the pump replacement. The response from the diagnostic saying the pump sounds funny actually sounds like a funny experiment. Has the relay for the pump been changed also? You stated it had blown along with the fuse.
I swapped the unused relay with the ASM pump relay and that got the car working again for a few miles. But then I ran out of relays.
I'm wondering if there is a hydraulic leak somewhere.
Focus on the problem - the fuse is a protection device - it is telling you there is a short. Don’t put more fuses in or drive the car until you have accessed and inspected the suspect pump and its connector. Given it is already reported as having been replaced, this has to be prime suspect as the root cause. trailer the car to the original main dealer and ask they resolve as it’s clear that they have not properly fixed it. It is quite likely the pump remains fault - the dealer may not have been entirely straight about fitting new, or they may have misdiagnosed (it could be the connector). Either way it’s an electrical short. Don’t risk more serious damage by continuing to swap relays and fuses and trying to drive.
The dealer has a duty of care to resolve an issue that they have clearly and evidentially not properly addressed prior to sale. It is likely not an expensive part or an expensive fix (unless they have to drop the trans) - but either way, this is on them. They should not argue at this stage so soon after sale - but get the car back to them pronto.
The dealer has a duty of care to resolve an issue that they have clearly and evidentially not properly addressed prior to sale. It is likely not an expensive part or an expensive fix (unless they have to drop the trans) - but either way, this is on them. They should not argue at this stage so soon after sale - but get the car back to them pronto.
Last edited by calinours; Apr 23, 2024 at 01:44 AM.
Focus on the problem - the fuse is a protection device - it is telling you there is a short. Don’t put more fuses in or drive the car until you have accessed and inspected the suspect pump and its connector. Given it is already reported as having been replaced, this has to be prime suspect as the root cause. trailer the car to the original main dealer and ask they resolve as it’s clear that they have not properly fixed it. It is quite likely the pump remains fault - the dealer may not have been entirely straight about fitting new, or they may have misdiagnosed (it could be the connector). Either way it’s an electrical short. Don’t risk more serious damage by continuing to swap relays and fuses and trying to drive.
The dealer has a duty of care to resolve an issue that they have clearly and evidentially not properly addressed prior to sale. It is likely not an expensive part or an expensive fix (unless they have to drop the trans) - but either way, this is on them. They should not argue at this stage so soon after sale - but get the car back to them pronto.
The dealer has a duty of care to resolve an issue that they have clearly and evidentially not properly addressed prior to sale. It is likely not an expensive part or an expensive fix (unless they have to drop the trans) - but either way, this is on them. They should not argue at this stage so soon after sale - but get the car back to them pronto.
The issue I have is that I didn't own the car when the previous owner got the work done.
I definitely agree that there is something causing the pump to short like a connector.
Ownership should not matter if the work by the dealer was recent and nobody else has buggered about with the car since. Just don’t let anyone else mess with it - it gives the dealer an out. Get on the blower to the main dealer ASAP, explain the issues and politely demand they investigate.
Have the person who paid for the repair deal with the dealership if they say the dealership says they'll only deal with customer who paid. I am sure the previous owner does not want the car back.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






