can you give details on how you did it?
remove exhaust pipes?
how removed the crimp fittings, etc
thanks

 

Tools/Supplies:
11-inch side cutters (Snap-On)
Shop lamp (Harbor freight)
Drain pan (Amazon)
Brake clean (BMW)
4 ramps (Harbor freight)
2 jacks (Harbor freight - Daytona Rapid pump)
3/8 Sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch hex impact driver with 3/8 adapter (Milwaukee)
New hoses and clamps (https://www.sequparts.com/product-ca...ge-sportshift/)
4 wheel chocks (Amazon)
Harbor freight hand pump (Orange set)
3 bottles of CHF 11S Long-Life Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid (Amazon)
Scan tool optional (Foxwell diag)


Steps:
1. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Jack the front up evenly with a jack on the front passenger and front driver side. Go back and forth to both jacks and do a few pumps on each side. Do not jack up the car from only one point (officially from Aston-the car must be jacked up evenly)
1a. Set the front wheels down on the ramps (One ramp facing forward and one facing the rear, this way the car cannot move in either direction. This is not required but added piece of mind being under the car)

2. Place wheel chocks behind each front wheel on the ramps. Jack the rear up evenly with a jack on the rear passenger and rear driver side. Go back and forth to both jacks and do a few pumps each side. Do not jack up the car from one point (officially from Aston-the car must be jacked up evenly)
2a. Set the rear wheels down on the ramps (One ramp facing forward and one facing the rear, this way the car cannot move is either direction. This is not required but added piece of mind being under the car) Put the rear wheel chocks back behind the wheels on the ramps.

3. Remove rear under shield (recommended: clean the bolts on a wire wheel before reinstalling if they appear crusty)I used my impact to save time but I'm sure the neighbors didn't enjoy that at 1am

4. Locate all 4 ends of the hoses and begin on the bottom line (the most straight hose) Place your drain pan under the hose you are about the work on. Cut both clamps off with sharp side cutters. I used a new Snap-On set. Remove hose and set aside. Most of the fluid will drain out.

5. Use the 11 inch side cutters to carefully reach up to the top most clamp and cut it (It takes longer if you have dull cutters or weak fingers because with how far up the clamp is, you don't have much handle length left on the cutters to squeeze.

6. Place new hoses in place for a dry fit, then begin tightening the clamps, I did the hard to reach ones first to get them out of the way. (Do not over tighten them, these are metal clamps tightening on plastic, you can crack the reservoir which will cost over $300 in the part alone.

7. Fill the reservoir with CHF 11S until full and replace cap, then either start the car or use a scan tool to initiate a bleed procedure. If using the car running method, only open the bleed screw for a second and close it then check the reservoir, it drains quickly using this method. Fill as needed and bleed it again then check the level and replace the cap.

8. Clean everything with brake clean that got dirty and wipe dirt as necessary.

9. Reinstall rear under shield.

10. Lower the back of the car first and put the wheel chocks back behind the rear wheels.

11. Lower the front of the car, Done. If your car leaks like mine did, you filled the reservoir too much. Just clean the mess, check the level and don't stress.


Notes:
Do not remove the exhaust
Do not lower the transmission
Do not remove the rear subframe support bar, just work around it

 

much appreciated!
so there was room for the side cutters for the top connections...
and the exhaust did not prevent the job
did you use all 3 bottles?
did you use a scan tool to bleed?

 

Yes there is just enough room to get the cutters up top, but make sure you have new if not almost new cutters. The exhaust was annoying but I worked around it. You can fit both arms around it (like a bear hug). I used 2 bottles but it's always good to have an extra since my local stores don't carry any. I could not get my scan tool to actually bleed it. I heard the pump activate but nothing came out so I just started the car instead and bled it for a split second at a time.

I actually just finished changing the transmission fluid, it's a good idea to do it at the same time if you're under there and going through all this on the garage floor like me. For the trans you need a new o'ring for the filter and two washers. One for the fill plug and one for the drain plug. Redpants sells a kit but rarely does he have things in stock so I grabbed the part numbers and bought them elsewhere.
​

 

NO sh*t!

 

Hello,
Great write up!
I purchased the hoses not long ago to do the ASM hose replacement and bleed on my 2008 as my old hoses were starting to crack. Unfortunately, while driving home tonight and waiting for a traffic light to change, i suddenly was unable to shift into 1st and got the dreaded " faulty gear light" and found myself dead in the water. After pushing the car to the side of the road i found a puddle of clear oil fluid where i had been sitting. After turning the engine off, it wouldn't start again. So my question is, could my Foxwell 500 scanner clear everything after i replace the hoses and filled the reservoir with chf11s and do the bleed? Im afraid that since it wont start, i will not be able to clear the codes, bleed it and start the engine without an AMDS. My local AM dealer has become notorious for price gauging.
BTW, a BMW mechanic friend has a Snap-on shop scanner and willing to try.
id appreciate any feedback.

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm not really sure what the clear fluid would be. I've bled the brake fluid, changed transmission fluid, and flushed/changed the clutch fluid and none of that was clear and wouldn't turn clear from what I've seen over the years. It's possible the fluid you saw was light yellow which would be old CH11S clutch fluid. Chances are your ASM lines blew out and what you saw is old clutch fluid. That would explain the faulty gear light and unable to shift.
But a no start condition shouldn't be related to bleeding the clutch in my opinion. Does the car have power when you turn the key on (lights on the dash and Aston sounds)? If not then you have two problems and that's probably your battery.
If you do have power, the Astons may have a safety fault for the gearing system (clutch and transmission).
In the event this is the case, you would have to clear the codes and may need to poke around in the special functions area of the scan tool and see if there is any ASM or clutch reset/safety fault section.
I'll wait to hear back about if the car has power but I would start by fixing the clutch lines filling the reservoir then bleeding it. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that you didn't just kill the clutch by running it dry. The process to replace these is not for the faint of heart.
I do not have a foxwell500 but if you have the Aston software on it then you should have no problem scanning and clearing codes but I would save the errors, screenshot, write down or save in the scanner so you can reference the errors later.
The Snap-On scanners, even the 10k ones need a $600 Aston module to work so unless your friend has that or is willing to pay it, or you are, that won't help. Lots of cheaper options exist. And keep in mind your car does not need to be running to clear codes, just key on.
Let me know how it goes.

 

Thanks for responding. I think it's the original AM fluid which I believe is clear colored, as chf11 was used later to service the system. I have to download the Aston software onto my foxwell 530 tonight then scan it. I'm pretty sure it's a safeguard that won't let me start it.
If anyone could provide insight i would greatly appreciate it.
Wish me luck!

 

I was successful at changing my ASM hydraulic hoses and re-filling the reservoir with new fluid on my 2008 Vantage. However when I hook I up my scan tool to bleed the system almost no fluid comes out when the "bleed process" is indicated on the scan tool. Does this process run the pump for the count down on the scan tool? I assume the pump should run for a brief time to clear the air and push the new fluid through. I hear nothing when the bleed process is running. I do have the parking brake on and ignition on, but not running.

Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Never mind. I was successful at bleeding the system with my Launch X31Pro.

I changed two things that maybe related. One the trunk was open, but more important I was also bleeding my brakes and had removed most of the old fluid from the master reservoir which caused a brake waring light on the dash. I closed the trunk and finished the brake bleed and the clutch bleed went perfectly.

The nice thing about the Pentosin CH11S is that is bright green so it is very obvious when you have removed all the old fluid / bubbles.

 

Glad you figured it out, was going to ask what scan tool you were using. At least it's documented so if anyone else has an issue.

 

Drop the rear underpan and you'll see the reservoir.