I'm trying to bleed the clutch and nothing but drips is coming out of the bleed nipple. I tried removing the bleeder all together and it still drips so the screw isn't plugged.

I'm currently using the pressure bleeder on the reservoir and it worked flawless to bleed the rear brakes just a few moments ago. It's set to 20 PSI. Should I start the car for a few minutes then try again? I'm very confused why this isn't working, does this mean I have no fluid in the clutch?

Note I only jacked up the passenger side to perform the clutch bleed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
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This can be real challenging... my dealer does this for a couple hundred bucks and is worth it.

 

I actually found my solution shortly after posting this so I hope my solution helps others as well. If you watch the video by redpants.lol on YouTube, he doesn't have his car running and it works fine for him using the pressure bleeder. For me I had to start the car with the pressure bleeder on the reservoir and bleed the clutch with the car running. Maybe this is because I have the "automatic" and his was a manual. I know they are as close as a transmission can be since the auto is just the same manual with an gear module slapped on the side.
Long story short, start the car and bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder on the reservoir.

 

You realize that there are 2 different fluids and different reservoirs between the two transmissions. So if you depleted your ASM system of green fluid it's probably going to leave you stranded, or it already has. There is a procedure to bleeding the ASM and hopefully you haven't run it dry.

 

According to this it's the same fluid:

​​​​​​From what I see the procedure to bleed the clutch is the same for the manual and the auto sport manual. I did not touch the transmission, only the clutch bleed screw. The fluid that came out what not green, it was the same as the brake fluid. I spoke to my BMW mechanic who said the clutch is usually shared with the brakes. I did not do anything with the transmission located in the rear of the car, only the clutch bleeder near the front of the torque tube. Do you have any photos or documents that show or explain a second reservoir for the clutch only?

 

Here is the actual write up from the workshop manual. The only difference I see is that instead of using my scan tool, I started the car and bled it for maybe 3 seconds to make sure the fluid was clear and contained no bubbles. During this bleed I had the same pressured bleeder with brand new fluid in it that was shown in the video I attached. Since the clutch in this car is the slave cylinder I feel confident that the master cylinder reservoir was the correct reservoir to attach the new fluid bottle. I also observed the pressure on my bleeder decrease from 20psi to 18.5 psi so I know the pressure decreased by loosening the clutch bleed screw. If I have done something wrong I would appreciate if someone would correct me with some photos or instructions on what should be done. I don't want to damage this beautiful machine. I just completed replacing the rear pads, rotors, and parking brake pads yesterday and bled the rear brakes which prompted me to also bleed the clutch since I had all my equipment out.

 

That video is for a 3-pedal car. Sport Shift has a reservoir mounted to the LH side of the transmission that uses CHF 11s.

 

All of this complexity is why I opted for dealer to do this

 

I just want to make sure I understand, so your saying on the left side of the transmission in the rear of the car there is a reservoir? I've never heard of that before. Any chance you have a picture of this so I know what I'm looking for?

 

the hoses go to an electric hydraulic pump, I think it turns on to pressurize the system when you unlock and open driver door. it may hold enough pressure to perform the bleeding without putting the key in. i have not performed this task. there is a section here about bleeding https://www.colortvset.com/aston-mar...lutch-upgrade/
as well as this excerpt from a DIY clutch change procedure

I then asked my wife to sit in the car turned the ignition on (without starting)
made sure that the gear indicator was showing “N”, then loosened the slave
cylinder bleed valve and asked my wife to pul the paddle to engage “1”. As she
did that immediately a strong flow of fluid rushed out, clearing any possible air
left in the line.
I then lightly closed the bleed valve, asked her to press “N” and let me know once
the indicator showed neural. Then we repeated the process three times and I can
say that at most two would have been enough. You need to make sure that the
reservoir is kept full as very easily the level will fall below minimum.
Closing the bleed valve between strokes is a habit that I have had to make sure
that air is not drawn back. It might be unnecessary but takes no effort so good
insurance.

 

That is perfect, thank you for the picture. I'll pickup some CHF 11s on the way home. The bleed screw for this is still the same one from the video at the front of the torque tube right?

 

Not as clean underneath but here it is.

 

Thank you very much for that picture. It looks like there isn't much room to get any reservoir pressure tools on that, I'll pickup a transfer pump too. Is that circled picture I posted the correct bleeder screw? If it is, then I'm concerned that what came out when I bled the system incorrectly looked like yellow brake fluid and not green CHF 11s.

 

Not much room at all, you can unbolt the bracket to lower it somewhat. The fluid turns yellow as it ages, so it probably hasn't ever been changed. Unless it's had a clutch replacement and they felt like giving some extra.

 

I'm fairly sure this is the original clutch so I bet your right there. Just to confirm, that is the correct bleeder I circled in red? I apologize for all the questions as I just want to do this job right and I enjoy learning about these cars, and working on them.
I see that another guy used the Foxwell NT530 for this job in the post @ragingfool35 mentioned however I do not see a new one listed as working with Aston Martin so I'll begin research on which current Foxwell will do this job.