My 2008 Vantage Progress Thread
Midnight Blue

Fuel filler lid solenoid replaced
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Thank you!
Last edited by sirhodjibob; Oct 23, 2025 at 07:31 PM.
Did a quick one step polish with Sonax Perfect Finish + Avalon King ceramic coat. Came out nice, paint is in nice shape. Thought about pulling the PPF on the rear side sills, but left as I may change up to V12 side skirts in the future.
Purchased a set of N24/GT4 OZ Magnesium wheels from a local Aston owner. These had been kept in storage for years with no tires ever mounted, manufactured in 2008. Plan is refinish these in silver which I think will suit the car better.
These are 18x10 +45 front, 18x11 +48 rear.
These are 18x10 +45 front, 18x11 +48 rear.
Last edited by sirhodjibob; Nov 9, 2025 at 08:30 AM. Reason: found rear offset
Thanks! Yes super lucky find on the wheels, especially only an hour's drive from my house. Will of course have upcoming aesthetic modifications that compliment the wheels.
Back to less fun stuff:
throttle body cleaned, new gasket. Wasn't dirty at all really.

OE vs blueprint filter. I purchased some GT4 style airbox delete brackets, but held off installing after seeing the all the effort in the OE ducting. I'm just after induction noise, is it worth it?

Last but not least here's that pesky timing cover. Leaky, but not leaving drips on the garage floor. No photo but it's leaking a bit higher up as well, likely the "T" junction. Annoying for sure, but it can wait a little bit and I gave it a good clean for now. For what it's worth the cam cover seals don't appear to be even weeping a bit.
Back to less fun stuff:
throttle body cleaned, new gasket. Wasn't dirty at all really.

OE vs blueprint filter. I purchased some GT4 style airbox delete brackets, but held off installing after seeing the all the effort in the OE ducting. I'm just after induction noise, is it worth it?

Last but not least here's that pesky timing cover. Leaky, but not leaving drips on the garage floor. No photo but it's leaking a bit higher up as well, likely the "T" junction. Annoying for sure, but it can wait a little bit and I gave it a good clean for now. For what it's worth the cam cover seals don't appear to be even weeping a bit.
If you do replace the timing cover seals, can you take detail step by step pictures? I'll probably have to get to it at some point but I'd like to see if there's anything harder than expected on the vantage. Thanks!!
I suppose the other item to keep in mind is that you can not simply swap on a new gasket, the cover itself needs to be checked for straightness.
Yes I certainly can. I have replaced the timing chain cover gasket and guides on my M3, and this doesn't look fundamentally much different besides the extra headache on working on a V shaped engine vs an inline one. I already have an engine support brace. That said my spare time to be working on cars is much less these days.
I suppose the other item to keep in mind is that you can not simply swap on a new gasket, the cover itself needs to be checked for straightness.
I suppose the other item to keep in mind is that you can not simply swap on a new gasket, the cover itself needs to be checked for straightness.
Changing the timing cover is an Engine-out job, at least 15 hours work for a pro shop, longer for a DIY'er. Do not attempt to do the cover with the gnine in the car, you end up having to remove so much from the engine it actually takes longer than taking the engine out.
Here's a video explaining but the good news is, there's really no need to replace it unless it's a major leak, and you look like you have minor weeping at most. He even states not to use an engine brace.
I have bad new for you in that it is most definitely fundamentally different.
Changing the timing cover is an Engine-out job, at least 15 hours work for a pro shop, longer for a DIY'er. Do not attempt to do the cover with the gnine in the car, you end up having to remove so much from the engine it actually takes longer than taking the engine out.
Here's a video explaining but the good news is, there's really no need to replace it unless it's a major leak, and you look like you have minor weeping at most. He even states not to use an engine brace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tYLcq0VJNI
Changing the timing cover is an Engine-out job, at least 15 hours work for a pro shop, longer for a DIY'er. Do not attempt to do the cover with the gnine in the car, you end up having to remove so much from the engine it actually takes longer than taking the engine out.
Here's a video explaining but the good news is, there's really no need to replace it unless it's a major leak, and you look like you have minor weeping at most. He even states not to use an engine brace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tYLcq0VJNI
The major advantage for DIY to me is not cost savings, but rather to be more thorough than any shop would. Is a shop going to take time to vapor blast the front cover? Replace each nut and bolt with new (and deal with wait time of ordering all these)? Replace all the coolant hoses and fixings along the way? Probably not. Even some dealers replace it with engine in, although if I had the space, I certainly would choose to remove.
Relevant:
Anyways, the maintenance reset continues. Oil and transaxle fluid changed.
Installed:
Motul 10W-60 oil
9G33-6714-AA - oil filter
6G43-04-10082 - drain plug
6G33-9N228-AA - drain plug washer
6G33-6C861-AA x 2 oil bypass filter o rings
Redline MT-LV transaxle fluid
4G43-27-10491 - transaxle filter o ring
4G43-27-10245 x 2- transaxle drain & fill plug washer
Drain & fill plug torqued to 49nm.

Only made a minor mess. Took about 4.5 quarts or so. The fluid in there was fortunately super clean, but likely original. Note- I did NOT empty the cooler lines, per the member on here from Velocity AP's advice.

Don't forget the transaxle filter o ring:

Much more fun and interesting parts (from Poland!) on the way, just need to keep powering through on the maintenance stuff a little longer.
Installed:
Motul 10W-60 oil
9G33-6714-AA - oil filter
6G43-04-10082 - drain plug
6G33-9N228-AA - drain plug washer
6G33-6C861-AA x 2 oil bypass filter o rings
Redline MT-LV transaxle fluid
4G43-27-10491 - transaxle filter o ring
4G43-27-10245 x 2- transaxle drain & fill plug washer
Drain & fill plug torqued to 49nm.

Only made a minor mess. Took about 4.5 quarts or so. The fluid in there was fortunately super clean, but likely original. Note- I did NOT empty the cooler lines, per the member on here from Velocity AP's advice.

Don't forget the transaxle filter o ring:

Much more fun and interesting parts (from Poland!) on the way, just need to keep powering through on the maintenance stuff a little longer.
Last edited by sirhodjibob; Nov 21, 2025 at 10:19 PM.



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https://bernardembden.com/am/timingcover/index.htm