Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7
Price: $28000
Mileage: 18700
Color: Red
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): FL
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive

Location: Space Coast, Florida
Price: $28,000
VIN: JM1FD3337R0302632
Contact: cbonnerm(at)aol.com

1994 RX-7, R2 model
Vintage Red w/ Black interior (156 made in this year/color/trim)
18,7XX miles
2,720 lbs (1/2 tank of gas)



Chassis:
Swap done by me, including wiring (soldered)
Corner balanced
Hinson LS2 front subframe
Samberg transmission mount
Samberg rear diff mount
Full SRS (airbag) delete
Shorai Power 5lb lithium ion battery (relocated to rear bin)
R-magic Inner Fender Braces (w/ additional stiffening bar)

Engine:
2006 GTO LS2 (~21K miles)
412 WHP/398 WTQ (very conservatively tuned, but everyone says that)
Speed density tuned by Jeremy Formato (Fasterproms)
Corvette LS2 oil pan
Hinson long tube headers w/ merge collectors, ceramic coated black
Fully ported intake and throttle body
MKIV Supra Fuel Pump
Manley race valves (1mm oversize)
Cometic head gasket (.040, thinner than stock)
Comp Cams double roller timing chain with adjustable cam gear
Melling High pressure oil pump
ASP underdrive pulley
Katech tensioner pulley
Aluminum (solid) engine mounts
Custom 4" aluminum intake using Turbohoses velocity stack & K&N filter
Custom stainless exhaust using mandrel bent pipes, ceramic coated black
Burns stainless X-pipe
Dynomax bullets, dumped before axle
Edelbrock 2-piece timing chain cover (allows for easy cam swaps)
PCV system delete with K&N vented oil filler
Granatelli motorsports wrapped/shielded spark plug wires
Castrol 0W40 German Oil used

Cooling:
Spectre flexible heater and radiator hoses
Improved Racing oil cooler block w/ stock passenger side oil cooler
Howe Racing surge tank/swirl pot/ air separation tank
Modified Koyo N-Flow (triple pass) radiator, ceramic coated for heat exchange
V-mounted and fully ducted radiator (with ABS plastic)
Full AC delete

Drivetrain:
2006 GTO LS2 T56 (~21K miles)
New F-body slave cylinder
Remote bleeder
Hinson Aluminum driveshaft
Spec Stage 3+ clutch (6-puck unsprung, really not bad to drive with)
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Delrin diff mount bushings
Pro 5.0 F-Body shifter
MGW Mustang shift handle (allows use of any shift ****)
Mobil 1 ATF transmission oil used

Suspension/Wheels:
18x10 CCW Classics, black anodized/shot peened face, lightened, with ARP hardware
295/30/18 R888's (~500 miles of use)
Ray's lightweight lugnuts
Penske 8100-based double adjustable, remote reservoir aluminum shock coilovers
Pillowball upper shock mounts
Hypercoil springs (700 lb/in F, 550 lb/in R)
Suspension Techniques front and rear adjustable sway bars
Widefoot front sway bar mounts
Improved Racing front shock tower bar w/ brake MC brace
Mazsport rear shock tower bar
Maval manual steering rack
Superpro polyurethane steering rack bushings
Kei Office brake pads
Stainless braided brake lines

Interior:
Sparco R353 steering wheel
Sparco Pro 2000 seats on Sparco side mounts
G-Force 5 point harnesses
Alpine CDA-7894 Head unit
Lower DIN map pocket (rare)
4x Infinity reference speakers (hidden as stock)
JDM leather center armrest/ashtray
Passenger airbag delete (looks stock, ~10lbs lighter)
Redline Goods Italian leather shift **** boot
MKIV Supra shift ****
Carbon fiber ECU retainer plate (hidden)
Floor mat metal scruff plate
Carbon Fiber door sills (w/ RX-7 logo)
Dash plastics in great shape: no broken tabs, replaced all plastic and metal clips and fasteners
Replaced empty center console lights with blanks for cleaner look

Exterior:
Shaved and painted engine bay
Full front harness wire delete/tuck (fuse boxes relocated to rear bin)
Powder coated many components (subframe, diff mount, ABS lines, master cylinders, engine accessories/components, valve covers, intake manifold/tube, etc.)
Painted what couldn't be coated (radiator coolant cap, wiper motor, ABS unit, brake booster, wipers, TB, etc.)
Holden Commodore VZ engine covers, painted (rare)
Smoked turn signals
EVO-R 90mm sleek headlights (HID)
'99 circular taillights
JKL Carbon fiber '99 spec front lip
Feed carbon fiber side skirts
Craftsquare carbon fiber rear add-ons/canards
APR Formula GT3 carbon fiber mirrors
VIS Scoot-style carbon fiber hood
NRG carbon fiber hood dampers
Aerocatch flush mount hood latches
Front and rear fenders rolled (not pushed out)


I have owned this car since 2007, purchased from the second owner. I did the swap at 18K miles and simply don't use it enough to keep it, so I'm willing to sell it for less than half of my investment. In the words of my tuner, the car runs outstandingly, and it's not given me any problems. My loss is your gain.
As you may guess by the seats, the spring rates, the A/C delete and the dumps, this car is not for daily driving or a plush cruise. It's got loads of grip, instant acceleration, exemplary driver feedback and a thoroughly stiff chassis, exactly as I'd planned the build for. The car was built for street and track use, but I simply haven't had enough time and interest to get in track time before now, and I don't see that changing in the near future.
Included with the sale will be all of the documentation I've kept on the car.

The bad:
The driver side headlight cover came off. I am including a new pair with the sale, so the new owner can replace one and have a backup for the other.
The front lip and passenger side rear canard have taken some bumps and have some cracks in the carbon fiber. They're each about a '10-footer.'
There are some scratches and two tiny drilled holes on the interior plastics down low, just behind the driver's seat. You really have to be looking for them.
The hood will rub a very tiny bit on the driver side engine cover. Touch it up with some red once in a while if you care.
The rain guard for the hood is a squeeze, so I wouldn't recommend driving with it. I only use it for washing.

More (larger) pictures available by e-mail.

 

Bump.

 

Where on the Space Coast is it actually? I'm in the area right now and this RX7 looks sexy.

How hard would it be to get more power out of the engine? Can a supercharger kit be fitted easily?

 

hey OP text me here 856 426 9607 have a few questions, thanks

 

I'm in the Palm Bay area.

Your power options aren't as easy as they are in some of the other cars, simply because there aren't easy-fit kits, and space is tight in the bay. You would have to lose the shock tower bar to fit a roots type supercharger, but a whipple type has been fitted to these swaps several times, which are a better all-rounder in terms of performance, just not as simple as the roots to install on a given engine. Single turbo and twin turbo installations have been done on these cars several times, but honestly, any option that requires piping would almost guarantee redoing the cooling system, FYI (not that those are very complicated or expensive).

In short, there's no drop-in options, but the car is currently tuned to be a track car, which means it's left very conservative on the top end. You could retune it for drag/street and have probably the highest HP stock cam/head LS2 ever (Mr. Formato told me he might have seen 1 or 2 more HP than I have now), or you could put in a solid head/cam package (LS3 top end can get you VERY far) and get over 500WHP. I'm a huge advocate of NA power, though. For under 10K, you could get a bigger motor altogether (built from this block to save money, even), and go over 600WHP if you'd like.

I will say that I've had the motor in and out once before, as I wanted to have everything 100% installed before I had the engine bay painted, and it's actually a pretty easy operation to take it out; the engine/transmission/headers/harness can drop to the floor and roll out from under the car as an assembly.

 

Weekend bump.

 

Bumping this. Forgot to mention, it has the upgaded 929 brake master cylinder, as well as upgraded rear toe links and trailing arms (allows wider wheels).

 

man i bet she scoots. clean car. its nice to see that you cared for the exterior as much as you did the motor.

 

Sold.