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CGT exhaust flapper mod?

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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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CGT exhaust flapper mod?

I am not sure what they call this on a CGT, but I want to do the mod people have referenced that allows the exhaust to stay "open" or in Sport sound mode all of the time. On a previous VW product I had, I just pulled a vacuum hose under the car and plugged it with a golf tee. How does it work on the CGT? Does anyone have photos so I do the right thing?
 
Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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Anyone?
 
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddilly
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I am looking at doing this with a remote operated 12v relay. Just need to work out the wiring - unfortunately in the CGT the vacuum switch is behind the rear bumper (in the flying spur it is in the boot next to the spare tyre).
When i work it out ill tell you how, i have the wiring diagram but cant seem to find the wire that goes to the vacuum switch, might have to put it up on ramps and take a look from underneath.
 
Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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Damn I was hoping it was underneath the car where I could reach it on a lift !
 
Old Apr 3, 2013 | 02:34 AM
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To replace the components the manual says to remove the bumper bar. But to do the golf tree trick you might be able to get to it from underneath - not entirely sure, maybe someone else has had their CGT up on a lift.
I crawled under last night and there was a big plastic cover in the way.
 
Old Apr 4, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Wish I had sports exhaust on my 2013 CGT
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 03:38 PM
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I got under the car this weekend with it on the ground to have a look around. Looking down the exhaust I could see the valve each side so I got a screwdriver and pushed it in to see if the valves moved which they did.

I crawled under the car and could see the spring loaded rod that opened and closed the flap and found I could move them by hand. I was just trying to find out if there was much resistance.

Anyway I found the vacuum line and followed it as far as I could until it disappeared into the rear bumper. It was obscured by the plastic tray that is bolted to the underside of the car. So a 8mm socket and Allen wrench removed the fittings and I dropped the tray. I could then see the vacuum line running across the rear to the other flapper. Rather than cut the line and plug it, I decided to simply clamped each one and zip tied the clamp, in case I had to reverse the procedure.

Started car and valves opened and have stayed opened. Drove car around 100 miles yesterday and no CEL lights and the open valve burble is there in D.

So there it is, it seems that the lines can be cut and capped off if you so wish or just clamped flat. It sounds great
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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That is great. Hopefully it is the same on the 2013. I will give it a shot! Thanks for letting me know.
 
Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:55 AM
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Thanks KS.

2 questions - could you see the vacuum relay that switches the vacuum on and off to the exhaust flapper valves ?
I want to connect a remote 12v relay to this relay if possible.

Also, how loud is it with the flaps always open ? Would it annoy the neighbours at night for instance ?
 
Old Apr 9, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Digger, I was not looking for a relay so couldn't tell you for sure, however there seems to be a lot of electrics under where the spare wheel sits so could it be there. You can remove the under tray very easily with the car on the ground and this reveals a lot, so it may be worth your whole having a look.

The exhaust sounds just like it is in sport mode all the time, and is no louder generally but just has that W12 burble on the overrun.

Have fun, Keith.
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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How I did my exhaust valve mod

I did the mod, but I believe in a simpler way.
I removed the bottom protective panel from the rear underside of the car.
Followed both vacuum lines from the valves to the back where they connect into a T-connector and into a single line.
I disconnected the single line from the T-connector and covered it and the connector.
Valves opened up and the sound is nice.

Though I am thinking I would like it a little louder, so now I am looking at removing the second set of CATs.

Originally Posted by ksbenz
I got under the car this weekend with it on the ground to have a look around. Looking down the exhaust I could see the valve each side so I got a screwdriver and pushed it in to see if the valves moved which they did.

I crawled under the car and could see the spring loaded rod that opened and closed the flap and found I could move them by hand. I was just trying to find out if there was much resistance.

Anyway I found the vacuum line and followed it as far as I could until it disappeared into the rear bumper. It was obscured by the plastic tray that is bolted to the underside of the car. So a 8mm socket and Allen wrench removed the fittings and I dropped the tray. I could then see the vacuum line running across the rear to the other flapper. Rather than cut the line and plug it, I decided to simply clamped each one and zip tied the clamp, in case I had to reverse the procedure.

Started car and valves opened and have stayed opened. Drove car around 100 miles yesterday and no CEL lights and the open valve burble is there in D.

So there it is, it seems that the lines can be cut and capped off if you so wish or just clamped flat. It sounds great
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:55 AM
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Very smart
 
Old Apr 20, 2013 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by priceactionguru
I did the mod, but I believe in a simpler way.
I removed the bottom protective panel from the rear underside of the car.
Followed both vacuum lines from the valves to the back where they connect into a T-connector and into a single line.
I disconnected the single line from the T-connector and covered it and the connector.
Valves opened up and the sound is nice.

Though I am thinking I would like it a little louder, so now I am looking at removing the second set of CATs.


Either way works, still only took about ten minutes. I also would like it a little louder so am interested to see if you remove the second set of cats and how that turns out.

Keith.
 
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:16 AM
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I'm going to do this but put a little shut off valve on the single line and maybe re route it so I can get to it without dropping the rear tray, I have lots of air suspension parts and I can do it using some push to connect fittings and 1/4" airline
 


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