2001 Continental R Mulliner, have factory alarm system, fob with two buttons.
when I close car with first button it beeps twice as should be, but then after ~10 secs it beeps 4 times, then after another 10 secs horn is on...
when I close car with second button (bypass sensors mode) all goes normal way.
dealer says no errors in memory. wants to disassemble door, console etc.. should I?
who knows what mean this 4 beeps?
why LED on panel can not blink?
maybe it possible to change it to something more modern? as I understand it is a very old Clifford alarm but Bentley modified?
Thanks in advice!

 

If guys here don't know, try http://www.rollsroyceforums.com/forums/

 

well, as always figure out by myself

first of all 4 beeps is not closed door/lid. this is common for most alarm systems.

about LED - when I take out circuit board with it - I saw soldering poing that cracked and was simply no connection - resolder it back and all good

when I disassemble passenger door, I saw oxidated closing motor plug, and door harness plug for it too. result was in non working motor and lights not turned on. decay of contacts was real hard, one wire just falls off in my hand. problem made by one who decided to use there notwatertight plug (all other plugs near are watertight). so I cut this off and use instead Tyco Superseal plugs with pins and rubber grommets.
drivers door has same problem and solution.

next thing was door locks. car have low miles but grease in locks was dry. whis caused follows: drivers door not fully unlocks by locking motor, so door button was hard to push, and door didnt open until 3-5 of pushing a button. passenger door lock opens well enough, but didnt switch lamps on. solution is to take off both locks, degrease and clean dirt from inside with brake cleaner spray, then after cleaner is dry - grease locks with universal synthetic grease spray. clik-clak lock back and forth to wash out any dirt, and then grease well. and door switch seems like will be forewer young ))) result - locks work good, lights go on and off immediately. book say that to take off lock need to take off door glass and frame - thats a lie.

and then I hear new sound. it was tic-tac from clock region but not clock itself. and inside lights blinks together with clacking sound. sound came from alarm control module. it is very hard to take off, needs to disassemble dashboard all from top, and slacken and move back center console. after this you can reach and unscrew two bolts. taken in hands - clack is from inside, disassembling is easy - found clacking relay marked D009-WB38. thought that it bad, tested, but it is good... when came to IC that clacks it - ULN2003A - Darlington transistor pairs, but is was looking good until I another time plug unit in... it smokes...

next - tomorrow, new IC is on the table, I will resolder it, and will look did it take anything else with, or all ended up easy... and will be some photos...

 

Hey when you're in there on the circuit board, check the small rechargeable battery that's mounted on the circuit board. It often begin to leak as it gets older and need to be replaced (hopefully before causing damage). Very easy compared to what you've done so far (once you get to it!).

 

hello! can you show where is this battery? didnt find...

found in internet http://robisonservice.blogspot.ru/20...-in-1990s.html - seems like mine is new version without battery

and another one - close but also earlier http://www.rollsroyceforums.com/foru...pic.php?t=1357

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worse of this - dealers wont do anything says "we cant check/program alarm unit in american cars, doesnt have access". If I buy this http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rol...z-uv32085.html do I need to code it after installation or it just plug-n-play?

 

If you're on Facebook, there are many professional installers who know that alarm system quite well www.facebook.com/groups/316492639892/

 

Hey- great finds. Think the battery must then be in the actual (clifford?) siren unit then. They are generally in the right side (american passenger side) upper wheel well area. Very easy to do. Sorry, don't have the service manual with me so can't double check. If you replace it, car should be put on a charger and key turned to start (not running needed though) and allowed to sit for some ridiculous amount of time... 6 hours I think so the battery can charge up. Alternatively, go for a long drive!

Regarding reprogramming, if it's a dealer, they have the scan tool and should be able to check the unit etc. It's the same scan tool world wide. Not sure what their deal is, but I don't know 100% what is required when replacing the ECU. I think it's just plug and play (ie no programming is REQUIRED-- that's why it comes with a key fob), but without a scan tool you won't be able to customize any settings and there are some that really should be changed if you're going to use the car!

Also, flyingspares is great, so asking them may be very helpful.

 

yesterday dealer told me that I cant fit euro unit instead US version. half'n'hour of blahblahblah about online programming. what can be online for car without can-bus even??? what tester they use for this car - anybody knows? is there information about programming in TSD6000?

two bad things for yesterday
first - resoldering uln2003a gives nothing. all become as earlier but now no interior light, and instead of it blinkers lit up constantly and dim once a second, relay still clicks, and plus rear lock always do work. so - something burn out together with this IC. I will continue to repair...
second - I stop to understand what do this unit with car key. antenna around ignition switch connected to this unit. what is this for? immobiliser? if unis is sells with fob - what to do with ignition key?

 

Did you ask the guys on www.facebook.com/groups/316492639892/ yet? Seriously, these are HARD CORE longtime car electronics installers who KNOW that system quite well.

 

There are two components- remote access/alarm (ie the box from flying spares) and the immobilizer. The immobilizer is linked to a chip in the key and ecu and that must be programmed using a j2534 pass-through tool with a connection to Bentley's website to get the programming. The immobilizer needs to be factory coded for the vehicle. This does not sound like your problem given the car starts. See this for the tool: http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rol...l-wt10240.html

The alarm/remote access component is what you posted a link to previously. These commonly go bad as evidenced by the fact that refurbished replacements are readily available. The service manual describes them as plug and play. It is important however to use the omitec scan tool to properly set up the customer options as there are some seriously annoying ones set as the default generally (maybe the refurbished ones are more helpfully set by default!). These come in two frequencies: 315 mhz (US) 433 mhz (row).

TSD6000 is available on CD and it is called "ASSIST." The current version sold by Bentley expires in about 28 days, so it may make sense to get a copy after then because it will be good for a few years (although you can adjust the date on your comp to open an older version). It's cheap and tells you everything you need to know. Get a copy. From what you're describing, it sounds as if your ecu may be bad somehow. May be worth talking to flying spares about what options they have...perhaps you could fit the replacement yourself and get the dealer to set the "customer settings."

 

enjoythemusic, big thanks, but I dont have facebook account...

fencera, big thanks!
TSD6000 is first that I downloaded, and of course I use it, wiring schematic etc, nothing to do without it. my version is cracked to avoid changing date and expiration.

flyingspares said that even earlier unit version will be good. they have one in stock, my partnumber - dont. but again - they have euro units, my car is american, are they interchangeable?

you say that immobiliser and alarm system is separate. maybe that correct on earlier cars? on my car according to wiring schematics it is one part, since that immobiliser antenna connected directly to this unit... maybe thats why flyingspares dont have them in stock? in TSD there is Exerption from Mastercheck that describes alot. there is description of learning new fobs to unit and keys to unit. mastercheck is available from flyingspares, and it is cheap...

repair goes slow way... found some diodes are dead, and one transistor...

 

anybody? can mastercheck from flyingspares program existing key to new unit?

 

not fun at all. flyingspares says that mastercheck is up to 1993. IETIS have description of working with 1997MY. whom to beleive???

 

))) if somebody is interested - in fact dealer use mastercheck for this car.

I repaired this unit but still need to reprogram it... will go to dealer.