Ac takes a long time to finally produce cool air. Also getting water in gas box when it rains as gas cap faces the sky. Any one else having these problems in their Bentley gt and have any solutions?

 

Hmmm, have not seen the gas / water problem. As for AC, have you checked the level of the R134a as it is easy to check and fill yourself (DO NOT overfill!!!).

 

Gas box you mean fuel tank?

Check the drain holes near fuel cap are clear so water doesnt build up and possibly find a way into your tank.

J

 

Hi.

Take a look here; https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...unt-water.html

Scroll down a bit and you will find the pictures that I posted showing the drain holes.

Good luck.

Les.

 

My A/C takes a while to cool down as well. Once it cools it seems pretty strong so its probably not a R134a level.?

 

Ok, yes the AC does not blow dead cold (my wife's 2003 Jeep blows colder) and am of the mindset Bentley did this so as to gently move the temps down and not 'offend' by blowing extremely cold air out of the vents. Just a guess, I guess. The cr does cool down nicely and reach the desired temp and maintains it even during very hot outside days.

 

Good God man i would not "be offended" by cold air when it's 100 damn degrees outside, and over 120 in the cabin! I complained years ago on here about slow cooling and it is not a coolant issue but a computer control problem that i wish i could override. If my car got to cold to fast i could roll down the windows and offer so coolant to the state of Tennessee.

 

Apologies if my 'offense' comments about the 'inoffensive' Bentley AC offended you.


And yeah, soon i'll be begging for better AC in the B in FL weather. And here we thought we all paid for a true high-end luxury car with the proper heating and cooling in-cabin refinements.

 

We're good but the A/C is not top of the line.

 

Yup, and as I said my wife's 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee is far better and that has over 120,000 miles on it and we've never replaced anything on the AC system other than a typical normal 134a refill ($20).

 

I live in the southern Utah desert where it is typically 101-104 F during the summer. I would love some more cool.


Not sure the refrigerant in my 2008 GT has ever been checked but after all these years I think its worth a try. But I looked all over the engine compartment and cannot find the Schrader valve for testing/filling. Can anyone tell me where it is?

 

The valves are on the driver side under the cowling near the brake master cylinder. You must pull the seal off, and turn the two quarter turn fasteners.

 

Thank you. Great info. Threw some more fridge in there. Need to road test to see if there is a cooler difference.


Car is new to me so I have lots of DIY, etc questions. I guess I should take all the plastic out of the engine compartment so I can see what all is to be found.

 

Dealership used Bentley scanner to detect accessory codes normally not available to us. Got code C00341 for Air Recirculation flap potentiometer (faulty). So the recirc mode on the heater/AC is not working as the flap/air door does not open and close. Thus it takes too long for the car to heat up or cool down,


Service Rep says he's seen that problem a number of times and the tiny plastic gears in the actuator are the fault.


The actuator is a VW part. But it is buried quite well in the center of the dash. Cost estimate of $1170 + tax to replace.


Anyone else have this issue...or maybe you do but don't know it.

 

Got my shop repair manual EITIS software up and running and took a look at the possibility of replacing the recirculating air flap control motor myself.

YIKES! The repair procedure says you can't access the motor actuator without removing the entire dash and HVAC system. Further, removing the dash (a two man job) requires removing the seats, brake power booster, steering column, etc. Basically need to dismantle the interior of the car. Rest assured I'm not going to do it.

I'm amazed the dealer can do this for $1200 unless they have figured out an easier way.