cduluk1, on your receipt please list the Bentley part # / price they replaced and any other parts used. Thx.

 

Well, here's an update: The car was and still is NOT fixed.

They (my Bentley dealer) originally said it was the MAF sensor, so they replaced it. But the engine light came back on a few weeks later. Took it back in, they said it was a bad air pump. Dished out $1700 to have that fixed. Well, the next day the engine light came back on. They now discovered MORE that's damaged. They said among the damaged is the vacuum hose--the dreaded engine out air leak problem you guys mentioned earlier in the thread. They also said some sensors have so much build-up they doubt they're salvageable. They believe the engine was like this for a year and couldn't believe i was driving it around like this.

WASN'T IT THEIR JOB TO FIND THIS MONTHS AGO WHEN I FIRST TOOK IT TO THEM?

Well they're charging me $4500 more minus 25% off, whatever that comes out to be. Ordering the parts from the UK which should arrive next week, then they said it will take 4 days to complete.

At least it will be like a new engine, right? I have 60,000 miles and it's an '09

 

What part of Florida are you in? Most don't know but the hose that breaks most of the time can be replaced by simply removing the steering rack. I've done dozens of them this way saving the customer on average 12hrs of labor sometimes more depending on parts that may need replaced.

 

Which dealer did you use and how much will the total repairs of this cost?

 

Really!?! Where are you located? How many hours does it take via the steering rack and how many hours should it take via engine removal?

I'm in Fort Myers, FL. My dealer STILL has the car because the part JUST came in yesterday. It's Bentley of Naples.

 

I'm in Fort Myers also. I worked for Bentley Naples for over 6 yrs. I left this past march after I bought into a shop. We do anything high end or high performance from oil services to custom fabrication.


If it is the line that connects to the vacuum pump and runs along the bulk head to the vacuum sensor on the passenger side (this is the most common failure) then it can be removed and replaced by removing the steering rack. This is not the way of the "book" but works well. common charge for this is 12hrs labor plus an alignment. In general if the engine has to be removed its going to cost between 25-30 hrs depending on what has to be repaired.


I still maintain a personal and professional relationship with the folks at that dealer. You will generally find they are honest hardworking people. Do they or can they make mistakes?..... absolutely we all do.

 

That's awesome! I live 5 minutes away from Five Bar Motorsports (in Gateway). My service advisor, 'Russ' (Rasti H.) just called me and said, "The engine is back in" and that it will be done tomorrow. I think he's over-charging me... Can you think of anything i should say when he tries to charge me for a complete engine removal when all he had to do was have the steering rack out?

 

Well I honestly don't know if he is overcharging you. The steering rack trick only works for the line that runs along the bulk head. This is the most common line but others do break and require engine out. You also mentioned something about build up, This may have to do with it? But remember engine out is the "correct" way so they wouldn't be over charging you, they are just not cutting you a break. I was hoping to inform you before the work was approved so you could discuss the options with whom ever serviced your vehicle. At this point I think the most you could to is ask which parts specifically they changed, and why just to clarify things. this should have been covered when selling the work to you though.

 

UGH!!

Bill was $4,700 for 18hrs labor plus parts. Got the car back 3 days ago. The day after, check engine light came BACK ON!

This Bentley is horrible! It really does spend more time in the shop than in the driveway--the rumors are true.

 

Last year had a similar issue car sputtered during startups then eventually gotten worse and sputtered while driving sounded horrible. Dropped it off to the dealer while still under warranty and was told maybe just bad gas because they could not find a issue. Now a year CEL is back after a drive from Philly to Maryland, check fuel cap light comes on and off after refueling. Sputtering started about a month ago or so during some startups with low idle but only lasts for a few seconds Wondering if I have the same problem.

 

Car throwing various engine codes, rough idle, suspected MAF...doing the bulkhead vacuum +++

Did the dealer perform a smoke test in first place????...probably not...I mean obviously not, because they changed the MAF first, then the air pump (SAI error), then all sorts of blame "sensors have so much build-up they doubt they're salvageable", finally, tried to fix the bulkhead vacuum.

There is probably another vacuum leak.

As common as vacuum issues are on VAG cars (not just Bentley's), smoke test should be performed a lot earlier in the diagnostics chain.

 

Potential Causes of P2187 DTC

Faulty O2 sensor (front)
Faulty gas cap seal
Leaky or loose oil filler cap
Air leaking into the intake manifold downstream from the Mass Airflow sensor due to the manifold itself, vacuum hoses off or cracked, leak MAP sensor, Leak at turbo bypass or it's stuck open, power brake booster hose, or a leak in the EVAP system hoses.
Faulty MAP sensor
EVAP canister purge valve
Fuel injector leak
Fuel pressure regulator faulty
Leaks in the exhaust system
Faulty variable camshaft timing
Faulty ECM (engine management computer)
Faulty O2 preheater (front)
Clogged fuel filter
Fuel pump wearing out and producing low pressure.
Faulty mass air flow sensor

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2187
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

....just to throw my two cents in...in the small print on back of a Bentley dealer work authorization form it says....the charge for labor is NOT related to actual time spent on job....consider yourself lucky, at least they apparently replaced correct item...one thing more...you are entitled to and should always ask for your original replaced part back...all to add to your learning process....when they replaced my spark plugs without my ok at 15,000 miles, I have my original plugs here...good as new...Can either Johnny or Zaos show us by picture where Mass Air Flow Sensor lives...JimB

 

There are actually 2 located at the air intakes. From my pictures they mount on top of the air induction pipes. right after the air filter boxes. If you wonder where the induction pipes are. Look on my pics for the towels I stuck into the engine (preventing crap from entering into the engine while working on it)

 

see the parts illustration from IETIS.