LHD - what electronics are in the passenger side footwell?
#1
LHD - what electronics are in the passenger side footwell?
Hi,
What electronics are under passenger footwell? I had some flooding in the passenger area and trying to see if anything has damaged it.
What electronics are under passenger footwell? I had some flooding in the passenger area and trying to see if anything has damaged it.
#2
As I understand it, there's a wire loom there that can rot through if the water has been there a while and the drain blockage causing water ingress into the passenger footwell is a common point of failure. (plenum chamber for a/c blocked drains underneath the scuttle panel overflows into footwell)
So much so, that Bentley manufactures a wire loom splice to fix it.
Read a few guys were able to get insurance to cover the cost under flood insurance provisions.
So much so, that Bentley manufactures a wire loom splice to fix it.
Read a few guys were able to get insurance to cover the cost under flood insurance provisions.
#3
In the picture below you will see the black box in the passengers foot well, in this box are several relays and a body control module # 3D0 937 049 H.
The drivers side foot well has the KESSY module and 4 circuit breakers.
.
See my rebuild thread.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 09-13-2017 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Add picture
#4
Thanks Johnny for the pictures. Do you think passenger flooding would create any electrical issue related to the ECU?
I'm getting camshaft sensor signal low error and not sure if it could be related to my recent flooding...
I'm getting camshaft sensor signal low error and not sure if it could be related to my recent flooding...
#5
The 2 ECU's are located in the cowl area, and if in fact your cowl drains are clogged, the ECU's would likely be under water depending on the amount of rain and how fast it drained according to the amount of the clog, also to the left of the ECU's is a fuse/relay box.
Here are some pictures of the ECU's location, although mine are not installed in the pictures, but you can see the 2 black plugs to the right of the fuse/relay box.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 09-14-2017 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Add pic
#6
See the fuse and relay layout in the attachment.
.
#7
Two more questions if you don't mind:
1)Do I need to remove the wiper in order to remove the plastic plenum cover to in order to access the ECU and fusebox? If yes, which wiper removal tool do I need?
2)If fuse 7/8 is blown, would the car still even start/drive? Would the error code be intermittent?
I'm getting turbo bypass valve error in Bank 2 and camshaft sensor error in Bank 1. It seems intermittent and could be depends on engine speed.
I cleared the code and drove for 4 miles in 2nd gear with high RPM, the errors came back. I cleared the code again and drove 15miles under 2k RPM. No error code. I then raised the RPM again and the turbo valve error came back within few miles. I cleared again and drove another 20 miles in high RPM and no error.
I will re-do the test again and see if I can find a consistent trigger condition.
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#8
Hello Lilo,
Sorry but I am on holiday in Sicily/Italy, so I can not run out to the B and check, it would be a long swim, and I do not recall if the plastic cowl trim is two piece or not, if it is one piece, then yes you would have to remove the wiper arms, to do so just pop the little black cap on each wiper arm base to expose the nut that holds the arm to the shaft, after removing said nuts you will lift the arms (blades) off of the windshield to almost a 90° angle, doing this releases the arm off of the shaft, I know I fault with the arms for a bit, saying nice words while only lifting the arms only slightly off the windshield, but then I stood them all the way up and they popped off like butter......
As far as if the engine would start and drive with either 7 or 8 blown, I believe that it would, I have had this before on an Audi and a Jag Vanden Plas, the vehicle monitoring system does not know that there is a problem until that certain time when the cam valves are supposed to do their job, but don't, just like my bad electrical thermostat in my Audi A8L W12, it would throw a code if it did not reach proper temperature in the allotted time, even though it finally got to the proper temperature, the gauge would fall to "C" and the cooling fans would run full blast, but as soon as I cleared the code the fans ran at their proper speed and the gauge show correctly, then it would be all good sometimes for months, sometimes only a day, on the other Audi with the VVT (variable valve timing) problem, it was bad wiring along with a blown fuse sometimes, yet it did not throw a code all the time, iirc it was when my son held the engine in a gear for higher rpms and the cam or cams did not advance or retard as they should have, resulting in a fault code, so as numbers 7 and 8 fuses coincide with the faults you've stated, those would be my first checking point, next onto the condition of the ECU'S.
Sorry for long reply, just typing out loud....
Good luck to you !
I await your outcome..
Sorry but I am on holiday in Sicily/Italy, so I can not run out to the B and check, it would be a long swim, and I do not recall if the plastic cowl trim is two piece or not, if it is one piece, then yes you would have to remove the wiper arms, to do so just pop the little black cap on each wiper arm base to expose the nut that holds the arm to the shaft, after removing said nuts you will lift the arms (blades) off of the windshield to almost a 90° angle, doing this releases the arm off of the shaft, I know I fault with the arms for a bit, saying nice words while only lifting the arms only slightly off the windshield, but then I stood them all the way up and they popped off like butter......
As far as if the engine would start and drive with either 7 or 8 blown, I believe that it would, I have had this before on an Audi and a Jag Vanden Plas, the vehicle monitoring system does not know that there is a problem until that certain time when the cam valves are supposed to do their job, but don't, just like my bad electrical thermostat in my Audi A8L W12, it would throw a code if it did not reach proper temperature in the allotted time, even though it finally got to the proper temperature, the gauge would fall to "C" and the cooling fans would run full blast, but as soon as I cleared the code the fans ran at their proper speed and the gauge show correctly, then it would be all good sometimes for months, sometimes only a day, on the other Audi with the VVT (variable valve timing) problem, it was bad wiring along with a blown fuse sometimes, yet it did not throw a code all the time, iirc it was when my son held the engine in a gear for higher rpms and the cam or cams did not advance or retard as they should have, resulting in a fault code, so as numbers 7 and 8 fuses coincide with the faults you've stated, those would be my first checking point, next onto the condition of the ECU'S.
Sorry for long reply, just typing out loud....
Good luck to you !
I await your outcome..
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 09-14-2017 at 03:26 PM.
#9
Hello Lilo,
Sorry but I am on holiday in Sicily/Italy, so I can not run out to the B and check, it would be a long swim, and I do not recall if the plastic cowl trim is two piece or not, if it is one piece, then yes you would have to remove the wiper arms, to do so just pop the little black cap on each wiper arm base to expose the nut that holds the arm to the shaft, after removing said nuts you will lift the arms (blades) off of the windshield to almost a 90° angle, doing this releases the arm off of the shaft, I know I fault with the arms for a bit, saying nice words while only lifting the arms only slightly off the windshield, but then I stood them all the way up and they popped off like butter......
As far as if the engine would start and drive with either 7 or 8 blown, I believe that it would, I have had this before on an Audi and a Jag Vanden Plas, the vehicle monitoring system does not know that there is a problem until that certain time when the cam valves are supposed to do their job, but don't, just like my bad electrical thermostat in my Audi A8L W12, it would throw a code if it did not reach proper temperature in the allotted time, even though it finally got to the proper temperature, the gauge would fall to "C" and the cooling fans would run full blast, but as soon as I cleared the code the fans ran at their proper speed and the gauge show correctly, then it would be all good sometimes for months, sometimes only a day, on the other Audi with the VVT (variable valve timing) problem, it was bad wiring along with a blown fuse sometimes, yet it did not throw a code all the time, iirc it was when my son held the engine in a gear for higher rpms and the cam or cams did not advance or retard as they should have, resulting in a fault code, so as numbers 7 and 8 fuses coincide with the faults you've stated, those would be my first checking point, next onto the condition of the ECU'S.
Sorry for long reply, just typing out loud....
Good luck to you !
I await your outcome..
Sorry but I am on holiday in Sicily/Italy, so I can not run out to the B and check, it would be a long swim, and I do not recall if the plastic cowl trim is two piece or not, if it is one piece, then yes you would have to remove the wiper arms, to do so just pop the little black cap on each wiper arm base to expose the nut that holds the arm to the shaft, after removing said nuts you will lift the arms (blades) off of the windshield to almost a 90° angle, doing this releases the arm off of the shaft, I know I fault with the arms for a bit, saying nice words while only lifting the arms only slightly off the windshield, but then I stood them all the way up and they popped off like butter......
As far as if the engine would start and drive with either 7 or 8 blown, I believe that it would, I have had this before on an Audi and a Jag Vanden Plas, the vehicle monitoring system does not know that there is a problem until that certain time when the cam valves are supposed to do their job, but don't, just like my bad electrical thermostat in my Audi A8L W12, it would throw a code if it did not reach proper temperature in the allotted time, even though it finally got to the proper temperature, the gauge would fall to "C" and the cooling fans would run full blast, but as soon as I cleared the code the fans ran at their proper speed and the gauge show correctly, then it would be all good sometimes for months, sometimes only a day, on the other Audi with the VVT (variable valve timing) problem, it was bad wiring along with a blown fuse sometimes, yet it did not throw a code all the time, iirc it was when my son held the engine in a gear for higher rpms and the cam or cams did not advance or retard as they should have, resulting in a fault code, so as numbers 7 and 8 fuses coincide with the faults you've stated, those would be my first checking point, next onto the condition of the ECU'S.
Sorry for long reply, just typing out loud....
Good luck to you !
I await your outcome..
#11
Anything is possible, I would check it for vacuum leak.
#12
I did the fuse check and plugged my exhaust vacuum line with proper vacuum cap. Fuses #7 and #8 are ok.
Errors still persist. I've sent the car to the shop to get it checked.
Meanwhile, for informational purpose, I'm posting all the errors here:
1. P0367 Camshaft Position Sensor 3(G300) signal too low
2. P2261 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Detected Bank 1
C00658 Dump solenoid valve - bank 1
3. P3084 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Dected Bank 2
C00659 Dump solenoid valve - bank 2
Seems strange to have multiple simultaneous failure. I recently did an oil change, could that cause any issue?
#13
Hello Lilo,
First as to your question above, so we all can get to full picture, did your problems start after the water intrusion, or after you did the oil change, when you went into the cowl area to check the ECU'S, did you see any water, or any sign of water, also did you use a garden hose to fill the center area with water to test the drains for flow, did you pull the ECU'S plugs to check for corrosion, next as to the oil change, vacuum leaks can cause many symptoms, I know this may sound ridiculous, but hey, I would check that the dipstick is seated, and it's o-ring is in place, also check fitment of the oil cap, it also has a seal, I would also check the plug on the CPS, also check plugs/wires on the others that are showing no turbo boost detected, be sure that none of the lines/hoses did not get dislodged during said oil change somehow, BUT, in reading the faults, it appears that neither turbo is building pressure and or the dump valves are open, so the question is, how does she run, correct power ?
Please let me know the turn of events that led to current situation.
Okay, I now see your PM, but still please inform us as to questions above.
As to replacing the ECU'S either master or slave (1&2) it is a lot to discuss right at this moment for me, but I will try to be brief, on my ongoing rebuild, yes I put the 07 parts car ECU'S in my GT, BUT, I put everything from the 07 in my GT so they are all matched together, Engine ECU'S, ignition switch, instrument cluster, steering column, KESSY module, I at first was trying to rebuild my KESSY module so as to use the key that came with my GT, but it turned out that my key was no good, I mention this because I know that all of the parts I just listed above are required to be matched from the same vehicle for the KESSY/IMMO to function properly, if one is replaced with a junkyard item, then the IMMO will kick in and the engine will fail to start, BUT there is a way to program the used parts to your vehicle, but you need your SKC= secret key code, this information resides in the KESSY's 93C86 chip, and the engine ECU'S (?95080?) chip, you need Carprog to read either chip and that program will give you the SKC, with the SKC you then use Ross Tech VCDS to change the VIN information on the replacement part, so it will match your vehicles VIN, NOTE: you must read both the original and replacement parts chips to have the SKC for both when using Ross Tech for installation of used ECU'S.
By the way, I have a pair of engine ECU'S 4 $
First as to your question above, so we all can get to full picture, did your problems start after the water intrusion, or after you did the oil change, when you went into the cowl area to check the ECU'S, did you see any water, or any sign of water, also did you use a garden hose to fill the center area with water to test the drains for flow, did you pull the ECU'S plugs to check for corrosion, next as to the oil change, vacuum leaks can cause many symptoms, I know this may sound ridiculous, but hey, I would check that the dipstick is seated, and it's o-ring is in place, also check fitment of the oil cap, it also has a seal, I would also check the plug on the CPS, also check plugs/wires on the others that are showing no turbo boost detected, be sure that none of the lines/hoses did not get dislodged during said oil change somehow, BUT, in reading the faults, it appears that neither turbo is building pressure and or the dump valves are open, so the question is, how does she run, correct power ?
Please let me know the turn of events that led to current situation.
Okay, I now see your PM, but still please inform us as to questions above.
As to replacing the ECU'S either master or slave (1&2) it is a lot to discuss right at this moment for me, but I will try to be brief, on my ongoing rebuild, yes I put the 07 parts car ECU'S in my GT, BUT, I put everything from the 07 in my GT so they are all matched together, Engine ECU'S, ignition switch, instrument cluster, steering column, KESSY module, I at first was trying to rebuild my KESSY module so as to use the key that came with my GT, but it turned out that my key was no good, I mention this because I know that all of the parts I just listed above are required to be matched from the same vehicle for the KESSY/IMMO to function properly, if one is replaced with a junkyard item, then the IMMO will kick in and the engine will fail to start, BUT there is a way to program the used parts to your vehicle, but you need your SKC= secret key code, this information resides in the KESSY's 93C86 chip, and the engine ECU'S (?95080?) chip, you need Carprog to read either chip and that program will give you the SKC, with the SKC you then use Ross Tech VCDS to change the VIN information on the replacement part, so it will match your vehicles VIN, NOTE: you must read both the original and replacement parts chips to have the SKC for both when using Ross Tech for installation of used ECU'S.
By the way, I have a pair of engine ECU'S 4 $
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 09-23-2017 at 04:45 AM.
#15
Thanks Johnny. That looks like a healthy balanced Italian breakfast
I did the fuse check and plugged my exhaust vacuum line with proper vacuum cap. Fuses #7 and #8 are ok.
Errors still persist. I've sent the car to the shop to get it checked.
Meanwhile, for informational purpose, I'm posting all the errors here:
1. P0367 Camshaft Position Sensor 3(G300) signal too low
2. P2261 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Detected Bank 1
C00658 Dump solenoid valve - bank 1
3. P3084 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Dected Bank 2
C00659 Dump solenoid valve - bank 2
Seems strange to have multiple simultaneous failure. I recently did an oil change, could that cause any issue?
I did the fuse check and plugged my exhaust vacuum line with proper vacuum cap. Fuses #7 and #8 are ok.
Errors still persist. I've sent the car to the shop to get it checked.
Meanwhile, for informational purpose, I'm posting all the errors here:
1. P0367 Camshaft Position Sensor 3(G300) signal too low
2. P2261 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Detected Bank 1
C00658 Dump solenoid valve - bank 1
3. P3084 Turbo Boost Pressure Not Dected Bank 2
C00659 Dump solenoid valve - bank 2
Seems strange to have multiple simultaneous failure. I recently did an oil change, could that cause any issue?
How did you make out with this ?