So, you are not an enthusiast?

 

I will be

 

Depreciation might be a bit faster on the 08 for now, as the 13 will have a somewhat newer body style.

Also the nav/bluetooth etc. are much better than the 08 and I think the mulliner package is pretty nice too.

If you don't mind the price premium, I'd go for the 13 and I think both are reasonably good deals, but the 13 will look 'fresher' longer.

 

 

ps.. you may already know this and it's a nitpick, but the engines are referred to as W12s as opposed to V12s due to the configuration.

 

 

 

Good questions IMO. I'll offer my following perceptions (right, wrong, or otherwise) as food for feeding additional debate, hopefully to elicit input from others:

It seems to me that price/worth is based on a combination of age, mileage, condition, colors & options, and model. Seeings as both have the same mileage, and if presumed both are in relatively the same general condition, those two aspects could possibly be removed from the calculation. From what I can tell currently, "some" aspects might be less costly for the 2013 than the 2008... like sourcing a replacement front bumper for example and if needed "someday". I'd expect that in 5 years, the 2013 may have a relatively similar street value to the current street value of the 2008. And in 5 years, a 2008 may have a value similar to a 2004 today. I'd say some close checking of the two could serve well, in-that an impeccably maintained 2008 with a clean title and history (one owner who's willing to talk frankly?) could be a significantly better value than a 2013 with some or many skeletons in the closet (and an unknown or questionable history?). An east coast vs. a south or west coast (US?) history could have significant bearing. As a simple litmus test: I suggest taking a flashlight and check for debris under the windshield wiper cowl vent trim panel (under the hood just ahead of the windshield) as maintenance and build-up of debris there can be telling. Also check the wear on the brake discs... at 45K miles they should (IMO) exhibit negligible wear if the vehicle wasn't driven hard, highways miles vs. stop & go mileage, etc... Of-course check trouble codes if possible. Do the boot and bonnet shocks work properly? Do the tires match and are the correct size? Check the spare tire compartment for signs of water puddling. Does the vehicle come with all three keys? Simple checks like that can be telling.

Ultimately, what it's worth to you now is largely dependent on your and possibly a co-owner's (spouse?) personal preference. What it might be worth to a buyer someday if/when you consider selling it likely goes back to the age, mileage, condition, market conditions, etc... at the time.

 

I think Mr. Hellinger's information is good insight and well thought out.

I would add to his detailed information:

In recent years and because of the catastrophic flooding that has occurred in some places - Texas (Houston), Florida, NC, Georgia, hundreds of flood damaged cars are re-entering the marketplace and sometimes with "washed" paperwork. Some states (Kentucky comes to mind) have looser title requirements with enough loopholes regarding the topics of salvage, flood and rebuild or reconstructed, where a car can be shipped there, cosmetically refreshed and mechanically repaired to pass it off with a new/cleaned title.

I draw from the Corvette world where this has become a large problem for unsuspecting shoppers of used cars and in states where you wouldn't think to look for flood damage (such as Arizona where I live). If a car is flood damaged and no insurance report filed, then the car continues on to appear clean on paper. Cars are shipped to places where they can be dried out, masked, mechanically patched up and quickly sold.

In the Corvette world, I knew of some who intentionally purchased flood cars because they got them for nothing, were able to fix up and used themselves as track cars, etc. In that world (and from one salvage car sales site I found), I saw (see) lots of flood cars of all makes including Bentley.

With Corvettes, the community developed specific inspection criteria to look for unreported flood damage. In simple terms, if the car sustained water ingress that reached the interior at any level, and for any amount of time, carpeting would be mildewed, waterlines left and fragile electronics damaged or destroyed. Any damage like this, especially electronic damage to Canbus modules could continue to bring intermittent problems that can never be fully chased down and repaired.

 

Interestingly, I was thinking "Corvette" when I penned my previous reply... but applied to the OP's question of which will depreciate faster (be the better investment), the '08 or the '13 (or an 04/05?)?. Maybe a crystal ball question, but my Corvette thought as a possible analogy: Would a C5 Corvette be a better investment (today) than a C6 or a C4, with all else being reasonably equitable except age and respective price? I'm guessing the C5 will prove to be the better "investment" over time. Similarly, I suspect the '08GT may likely prove to be a better "investment" than the '13 (or an 04/05) over time... all else being reasonably equitable here and now. "Maybe likely" being just my hunch.

 

Yes, I drifted off the direct question, just thought I'd add the caveat emptor to whichever choice is made. I advise (pretty much always) get the newest MY that fits your budget. In the examples above, even if it had slightly higher mileage, (unless some other factor such as an expensive repair) I'd opt for the 2013.

 

 

Thank you once again. I went ahead and bought the 2013 model. very, very excited. thanks very much

 

Congratulations! Post some pics when you get a chance!

Great advice from the forum members to check out each car in detail by the way.