Hi are these all clones I can't find a link for an original VAS5054A

 

I purchased my system from Rugged Computing in the UK.

https://ruggedcomputing.co.uk

I bought the system (hardware/software and computer) as a single fully-functional system.

 

Ok here we go.
Firstly what was done to the key during it's overhaul? The RFDI chip if damaged will not allow ignition authentication. The key will be locked in the ignition as stated. Also attaching the batterys with the key in the ignition can sometimes case a surge to the Kessy access module causing this problem. The Kessy module is on the left side under the carpet. Check if it is damp there. Also, take the spare key fob hold it close to the tumbler of the stuck key and hopefully authentication allows removal of the stuck key. Most likely either the chipped key is bad or the kessy module is. The kessy module can be saved by a guy in New York. An ecu scan is not possible if the key can not be turned to the accessory position. However look up Ross Tech VCDS for a diagnostic tool that is popular with fellow members. This is not an easy long distance fix.

 

Thanks everyone. I'm going to buy one of these. Will update soonest.

 

@jtec963
any update ?

 

Hi all, since jtec963 haven't been heard from for a while could I add a related question.. So my 2006 GT has its original starter batt (!!) and I replaced the house batt with the OEM Varta AGM batt some 3 years / 4000 miles ago. Been suspecting the starter batt of getting to the end of a long faithful life and was going to replace. However, so far Corona closures beat me to it, and now I have a problem.. So,
The other day took the car a couple rounds round the block just to move. Stopped it, and it would not start again, not on "emergency" procedure which does nothing, and not even with jumpers from a second car (but I made a mistake and connected both jumps only to the starter battery i.e. + and - on one battery) rather than one to each battery as instruction says, had I taken the time to check..). Charged the main battery overnight, and car started. So back in the garage, disconnected both batteries in correct order (except plus pole on house batt) and charged both batteries as usual (I use a CTek MXS 5.0 with quick-connection to the main/house batt connectors). Now, since this incident and despite charging both batteries, car won't start. Tried the reset routine a few times now, and same result.
Obviously I am going to order a new starter battery, planning on VARTA Silver Dynamic D15 63Ah-610A .. which I'm told is OEM. The house battery, replaced late 2016, is VARTA Start Stop G14 95Ah-850A .. So what are thoughts, is my problem as simple as just a weak starter battery (which is what I hope)? Both batteries charge to "full" on the CTek scale.
1. If so, why won't the house batt start the car via emergency start procedure?
2. Since I fitted the VARTA Start Stop G14 95Ah-850A AGM battery, the Bentley dealer has complained several times that the battery is not original and could be to blame for fault light..but I've been told the Varta is indeed the OEM (at least in UK / Europe) so cannot see what the paper label on the outside would change.. Am I wrong or have the wrong battery?
3. When I now try to start the car, the juice on the house battery dips quite a bit (to 2 or 3 lights on the Ctek, and it takes an hour or more to get it back to full charge.. is this normal?
4. It seems a check engine amber light is caused by a weak battery. It disappears after reset, until the battery is again weak.. makes sense?
5. Is it likely that the house battery would have been weakened via anold starter batt and might also need replacing again? It has about 3.5 years and some 4k miles, and has "always" been on the Ctek on AGM setting whilst garaged..

So I'm expecting a new battery to sort this, but am looking for some guidance if you consider I'm wrong ..

Many thanks, as always, and Happy Easter. Stay safe !

 

Have you put a simple volt meter across them , particularly the LHS ?
See my earlier post ^^^ .
This is 3 y ++ and seems fine even in a very cold climate .

Follow the Bentley dealer or ask what they use , this came from Jack Barclay London .


Looks like a595 95 ah AGM

It’s garaged at night on a trickle charger but sits all day some days outside , and sometimes in hotel car parks , marina car parks without a charger .

 

Thanks John,
Having had the main batt on charge and measuring 13.4V, and leaving it to settle down for an hour the main battery reads 12.95V and is stable there (negative disconnected). The starter batt had 12.55V and charged fully to 13.4V in an hour or so. So both batteries should have plenty juice to start and run the car.
Still suspect the starter batt to be weak and will change it. And, still don't understand why the car won't start. Will leave them off charge for a while and see if they drop voltage..Meanwhile I'm doing another reset i.e. negative terminals off for a while..starter batt first off and last on..
The fact that I tried emergency start, even without success, could that have "locked" the start sequence in a certain mode, or with jumper cables to the starter battery only could a relay or fuse have been blown or something damaged? Everything appear normal when switching car on either with key or with starter button, except the starter motor won't engage / kick in.. The CTEk being a "smart" charger, has never shown any problem with either battery and charges to step 7 "green" maintenance.. So it doesn't "think" there is anything badly wrong with either battery..

Beautiful car in your picture..Silver Tempest like mine..

 

Update.. so after resetting, the car finally started using ignition key. Still won't engage starter via the start/stop button. Interestingly, plenty Voltage on both batteries, but unusually a "Low Battery" written warning comes up in the central instrument panel (not the usual red battery sign that always come on when ignition is on., and turns off after some seconds..). Would I be right in thinking that the battery (either really but still suspecting the starter battery) may have the voltage but still dont deliver enough power? Or is there something else going on?
Having switched off the car after 5 mins on idle, the main battery shows 12.85 V and the starter is a 13.45V .. Strange.. Anyway, ordered a new Varta starter battery from NorAuto..OEM supposedly..
What am I missing..

 

Any updates guys ?

 

Hello, Am still at a loss.. The batteries seem fine (the new starter batt is delayed and hasn't arrived yet), but having reset the car a couple times by disconnecting the negatives, the starter won't engage at all. Most things appear normal, but the car won't start either using the start button or the key, including the emergency start procedure. The car has started a couple times, and things have seemed OK, but then reverts to not engaging the starter motor on next attempt. I also notice some gremlins probably related (?) ..The car will not go to correct ride hight with ignition on, and also the doors all of a sudden won't engage the soft-close function. I can hear the door motor run, but failing to engage the door and pull it in. This started on the left side door, and has now also started happening on the right side.
Yesterday I tried again to start, with both batteries fully charged. Ignition on and all normal (car wouldn't lift though, sitting a little low), and the starter would not engage. Having tried a few times, I then measured the Voltage on both batteries, at 12.40 V (would normally stabilise at about 12.9 after being off charge for a while) . Should still be sufficient, so suspect some setting gone wrong or perhaps a fuse (but then again, a few times the car HAS started and I've run it around the block to reset settings - hasn't seemed to sort the issue) ? So am really at a loss and at this stage hoping the new battery will solve it. Any ideas?

 

The batteries can cause lots of gremlins and might take a few tries to get things back to normal things like the windows and soft close need to be re set I'm unsure of the procedure for sort close though.have you out it on a vcds ??? Or any type of diagnostic? As for the air suspension have you any warnings on dashboard? Sounds to me you might have a starter issue. Check your earth's clean them etc

 

Hi all, I am also new to this forum, and yes like most of you have a problem car. I have been reading the thread and it sounds very much like I have a similar problem with a twist.
Back ground. I have just imported an 06 Bentley Continental GT from the UK downunder to NZ. I had new batteries put in before it was shipped. It has just been delivered to me and with great anticipation I hooked the batteries back up not knowing about the correct procedure. I hooked the earth onto the starter battery first, and then the earth to the main battery second. (I realise now it should have been the other way around.) A strange thing happened.....as I touched the negative terminal to the main battery the starter cranked the engine and it started briefly and stopped as if the engine were out of fuel. I had to disconnect both batteries to get it to stop cranking! I left it for a while and having done some research and hooked the batteries up using the correct procedure.
With the key out of the vehicle, the minute the batteries are hooked up the dash lights appear as if the ignition was turned on. How can this be?
I put the key into the ignition and turned it to the right.....no crank....I held it left....no crank. I tried to remove the key...it wont now come out. Steering lock is on and suspension and windows down. What on earth is going on? Does anyone have any clues as to where to start?

 

I should add, both batteries are new and fully charged. I have repeatedly removed and reconnected the batteries and every time they are hooked back up the dash lights are on with the key in...or out. I worked out if the car is left for 30 mins or so with the batteries disconnected, the key can be removed. The engine cranking thing has not happened again.

Cheers!
Stephen.

 

@Mr Kiwi did the shipping Co disconnect the batts before containerisation?

Anyhow even though alleged new bat set , I would reconnect following the well documented procedure and run it around for 1/2 hr so all the ECU s ( E meaning electronic ,but equally mean “ Electrotwackerey ) can settle down , re learn and importantly both bats get a good dose of alternator top up .

Stuck key is symptomatic of loooooow domestic bat .
various relays to transfer power between the bats and differentiate the KESSY , the LHS cross over ignition from the std RHS start will all need volts and fail in low volt scenarios or maybe stick because of lack of use .....in which case if get it running find a bumpy road and set the suspension in sport the hardest mode to shake it down .....fingers crossed .

Then trickle charge it when parked up ......a must !

Do the bats look new ......where’s your hard evidence ? It’s not like you can pop back to the dealer NZ to U.K. .