The battery is brand new, that is the first and only thing I have tried. I received a brand new OEM FOB with the purchase of the car, but it wasn't programmed for the car, so I am going to do that as soon as winter is over. Hopefully that one will be better.

I'll replace the struts this winter when I'm doing all other planned projects, thanks!

 

Hello All,
As far as the "key not found" message, or the doors and boot not responding to the fob, I would suggest a Ross-Tech VCDS scan to check for faults of any of the KESSY (Keyless Entry and Start SYstem) antennas located throughout the vehicle, or a aging faulty key.

As to the boot lid not lifting in the first inches, again that could be weak struts, but could also be the lift motor clutch wearing out, I am not sure as to the Bentley, but Audi did have the same issues on the A8L with the lift motor, it would start to lift and then fall, the updated motor was the metal version vs the previous plastic version, which is what the B has, metal version, so, what some found after after upgrading to the newer lift motor was that the had the same issue, and the cause turned out to be it was weak struts, or the binding bootlid hinges themselves, so lube the hinges first.

Now as far as the bootlid not closing all the way and automatically lifting again, I have a few thoughts as mine did the same thing while the vehicle was up very high in the front for engine installation, my bootlid will lift, but not all the way to stop, and I could lift it a few inches, but after quite a few (many) disconnections of the batteries, the bootlid latching mechanism went through about 4 automatic calibrations, after, it would lift all the way to stop, but then failed to make it all the way down to close, and cycled the up down until I helped it latch in the last inch, now I can not recall right now, but I believe that after I reinstalled the engine and put the vehicle on 4 jack stands to now sit level, the bootlid lifted and closed on its own properly, I will double check and report back after 1-15-21, I will also check with VCDS to see if there is any adaptations as to the lift and close points for the motor.

Johnny

 

Thanks for all of the recommendations, I think I'll tackle this in the spring. Not taking my car out with salt on the roads now, so no rush

 

Speaking of the key fob that's another issue that needs work..my lock door button gave way and I have to try and solder the switch back on the board. I'm sure a new key is a grand or something so it's worth a try

 

Thanks for the answer, Johnny! I will give it a good look when I get a chance to get it in the garage for winter storage.

 

Had the shop put them on. Just what the doctor ordered. Nice and tight, hold up both the trunk and hood now.

 

They were not cheap, but they worked perfectly, I can recommend them.

 

Thanks, ordering now!

 

Got the new lift supports from TopEuro Machine (same company as Alpine) and installed today. They included a very nice Flying B key chain too! The problem is that now it won't close. It tries and stops but if I put my hand on it it'll close. So I took off one of the new ones and put one of the old ones back on with the same result. What DOES work is using only one of the new ones. That tells me the new ones are too strong or that the motor is too weak. Luke at TopEuro is sending me another pair to try in the unlikely even that the ones I received are defective before diving into the motor. Questions: Will using just one strut cause any problems? Do these have any break-in period to loosen up a bit?

 

Sounds like the motor is tired and cant work against the power of the new struts. Bad idea to use 1 new and 1 old as that will result in hinge problems. As you say, in the unlikely event of the new struts being faulty, your looking at the motor.

 

My trunk has a problem opening all the way up. I can manually pull it up about 10-20 cm higher after it has stopped. Is that normal?

Sometimes when I open it, it gets about 75% of the way up, then stops and goes back down again. It's like it feels like it has struck something. It also sometimes closes 95% of the way, probably feels like something is in the way, and then goes back up again. To me this feels like a motor problem, not a strut problem?

 

Is replacing the trunk lid motor a simple bolt-on/plug-in job or are there any special tools or calibration required that might better be left to a pro? I'm expecting that after I try a second set of struts due later today I'll be replacing the motor.

 

Is the boot lid motor located inside the boot lid cover or elsewhere. Looking at parts diagrams it's not clear to me.

 

Always start with strut replacement as the symptoms you're describing are precisely typical. The motors safety cut out is confused by the inconsistent pressures of the failing strut/s. Also check for obvious hinge misalignment due to unbalanced forces from the struts, they can become loose.

 

​​​​​​Hello @BruceR ,
See my rebuild thread for the boot lid lift motor location, post # 159.

BUT, before you get into removing the motor, please try lubricating the hinges, or if you do pull the motor, I would check for free easy movement of the bootlid up and down, I would probably also pull all the struts off to test the hinges movement without the friction of the motor or the struts, just a thought.

Johnny

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