Continental GT Power Trunk Doesn't Stay Open on First Open
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I am thinking that it is not the motor, hopefully,
Maybe give the new lift struts some time to work in, or do as I did on a flotation pod lid, I had installed new lift struts and it was tough to push down to close, so I added a little silicone paste on the piston rods and opened and closed it a few times to get the lube to the seal, then wiped the excess off, all worked great for months, as this was a salt water pod I would have to keep applying the silicone, as some people would grab the pistons with their salt water covered hands...
You would just need 1 application.
Something like this guy did in his video.
Johnny
Maybe give the new lift struts some time to work in, or do as I did on a flotation pod lid, I had installed new lift struts and it was tough to push down to close, so I added a little silicone paste on the piston rods and opened and closed it a few times to get the lube to the seal, then wiped the excess off, all worked great for months, as this was a salt water pod I would have to keep applying the silicone, as some people would grab the pistons with their salt water covered hands...
You would just need 1 application.
Something like this guy did in his video.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Jan 7, 2021 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Replace link
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From: Naples FL
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Tried lubing the hinges and moving it up an down manually to work it in but still won't close with the new struts. Looks like it may be the motor. It appears that 3W7827332F is the part number that will fit an '09.
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From: Montgomery NJ
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Did you put some lube on the pistons themselves as shown in the video ?
Before I would spend the expense on the motor, I would do one last test to check the lifting power of the motor itself, I would remove the new struts to see if the motor could lift the bootlid on its own, if so, I would say the motor is fine.
It may be an other issue, when I return i will look into whether or not the motor has any adaption just like the windows do.
Johnny
Before I would spend the expense on the motor, I would do one last test to check the lifting power of the motor itself, I would remove the new struts to see if the motor could lift the bootlid on its own, if so, I would say the motor is fine.
It may be an other issue, when I return i will look into whether or not the motor has any adaption just like the windows do.
Johnny
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Thanks to Johnny I now have an acceptable solution to my trunk issue. Lubing the the strut pistons allowed me to use 1 new strut and one old strut with the existing motor. Before lubing I could only use one new one and nothing on the other side. If I use both lubed new struts it still won't close and flexes the right hinge when it tries as it did before. With a new one on the left and an old one on the right the lid now goes all the way up as opposed to stopping a few inches from fully open and still closes correctly. What remains to be observed is whether I still get the occasional slam down while going up. While I know having mismatched struts is not optimum, the trunk isn't opened very often so I'm hoping it'll be OK. If I have to I could switch sides periodically. The other new and old one will be kept as spares. I didn't check the lifting power of the motor without the struts since this seems to be working OK.
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Hello All,
As far as the "key not found" message, or the doors and boot not responding to the fob, I would suggest a Ross-Tech VCDS scan to check for faults of any of the KESSY (Keyless Entry and Start SYstem) antennas located throughout the vehicle, or a aging faulty key.
As to the boot lid not lifting in the first inches, again that could be weak struts, but could also be the lift motor clutch wearing out, I am not sure as to the Bentley, but Audi did have the same issues on the A8L with the lift motor, it would start to lift and then fall, the updated motor was the metal version vs the previous plastic version, which is what the B has, metal version, so, what some found after after upgrading to the newer lift motor was that the had the same issue, and the cause turned out to be it was weak struts, or the binding bootlid hinges themselves, so lube the hinges first.
Now as far as the bootlid not closing all the way and automatically lifting again, I have a few thoughts as mine did the same thing while the vehicle was up very high in the front for engine installation, my bootlid will lift, but not all the way to stop, and I could lift it a few inches, but after quite a few (many) disconnections of the batteries, the bootlid latching mechanism went through about 4 automatic calibrations, after, it would lift all the way to stop, but then failed to make it all the way down to close, and cycled the up down until I helped it latch in the last inch, now I can not recall right now, but I believe that after I reinstalled the engine and put the vehicle on 4 jack stands to now sit level, the bootlid lifted and closed on its own properly, I will double check and report back after 1-15-21, I will also check with VCDS to see if there is any adaptations as to the lift and close points for the motor.
Johnny
As far as the "key not found" message, or the doors and boot not responding to the fob, I would suggest a Ross-Tech VCDS scan to check for faults of any of the KESSY (Keyless Entry and Start SYstem) antennas located throughout the vehicle, or a aging faulty key.
As to the boot lid not lifting in the first inches, again that could be weak struts, but could also be the lift motor clutch wearing out, I am not sure as to the Bentley, but Audi did have the same issues on the A8L with the lift motor, it would start to lift and then fall, the updated motor was the metal version vs the previous plastic version, which is what the B has, metal version, so, what some found after after upgrading to the newer lift motor was that the had the same issue, and the cause turned out to be it was weak struts, or the binding bootlid hinges themselves, so lube the hinges first.
Now as far as the bootlid not closing all the way and automatically lifting again, I have a few thoughts as mine did the same thing while the vehicle was up very high in the front for engine installation, my bootlid will lift, but not all the way to stop, and I could lift it a few inches, but after quite a few (many) disconnections of the batteries, the bootlid latching mechanism went through about 4 automatic calibrations, after, it would lift all the way to stop, but then failed to make it all the way down to close, and cycled the up down until I helped it latch in the last inch, now I can not recall right now, but I believe that after I reinstalled the engine and put the vehicle on 4 jack stands to now sit level, the bootlid lifted and closed on its own properly, I will double check and report back after 1-15-21, I will also check with VCDS to see if there is any adaptations as to the lift and close points for the motor.
Johnny
When I ordered my build sheet off eBay, under the number 5D3 it says "Carrier frequency for remote control" and then "Carrier frequency 315 MHz with reduced transmitting power"... What in the world?! It is on the last page, 15ish posts from the bottom. Could this be why the key only works when I am standing next to the car?
You don't have that on the build sheet you attached, yours says 5D2 "Carrier frequency 315 MHz".
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Hello @xclens ,
Yes, part of my response was off topic, as I was trying to help you with your off topic comment in post #13
Now I hope @silvertonesx24 doesn't mind me continuing OT to answer your question about reduced power of your key fob.
Being that your Bentley is from Japan, it has the required 315mhz low power system.
Johnny
Yes, part of my response was off topic, as I was trying to help you with your off topic comment in post #13
Now I hope @silvertonesx24 doesn't mind me continuing OT to answer your question about reduced power of your key fob.
Being that your Bentley is from Japan, it has the required 315mhz low power system.
Johnny
This wasn't totally related to the original post here, but speaking of the key FOB..
When I ordered my build sheet off eBay, under the number 5D3 it says "Carrier frequency for remote control" and then "Carrier frequency 315 MHz with reduced transmitting power"... What in the world?! It is on the last page, 15ish posts from the bottom. Could this be why the key only works when I am standing next to the car?
You don't have that on the build sheet you attached, yours says 5D2 "Carrier frequency 315 MHz".
When I ordered my build sheet off eBay, under the number 5D3 it says "Carrier frequency for remote control" and then "Carrier frequency 315 MHz with reduced transmitting power"... What in the world?! It is on the last page, 15ish posts from the bottom. Could this be why the key only works when I am standing next to the car?
You don't have that on the build sheet you attached, yours says 5D2 "Carrier frequency 315 MHz".
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I also would try to solder the switch back on, I find a hot air solder station much better than an iron, hot air can get all the pins in one shot.
Also be aware that you can get a key service kit from a Bentley dealership for around $650-700 , and that kit will be 2 master keys, meaning 3 functions buttons and a panic button on each fob, no valet, these keys would be ordered by VIN which is used for cutting of the blade, the other cost is having them programmed to the vehicle, any where from $150-$300 depending on the dealership.
REMEMBER, if you get new keys, be sure to bring all the keys you have to dealership at the time of programming, if you leave a key behind, it gets removed from the vehicles memory and will no longer function as it is no longer paired to the vehicle.
And so I am clear, the forgotten key is not rendered useless forever, you would just have to bring it in along with all the other keys and pay the programming fee all over again.
Johnny
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Hello @silvertonesx24 ,
I also would try to solder the switch back on, I find a hot air solder station much better than an iron, hot air can get all the pins in one shot.
Also be aware that you can get a key service kit from a Bentley dealership for around $650-700 , and that kit will be 2 master keys, meaning 3 functions buttons and a panic button on each fob, no valet, these keys would be ordered by VIN which is used for cutting of the blade, the other cost is having them programmed to the vehicle, any where from $150-$300 depending on the dealership.
REMEMBER, if you get new keys, be sure to bring all the keys you have to dealership at the time of programming, if you leave a key behind, it gets removed from the vehicles memory and will no longer function as it is no longer paired to the vehicle.
And so I am clear, the forgotten key is not rendered useless forever, you would just have to bring it in along with all the other keys and pay the programming fee all over again.
Johnny
I also would try to solder the switch back on, I find a hot air solder station much better than an iron, hot air can get all the pins in one shot.
Also be aware that you can get a key service kit from a Bentley dealership for around $650-700 , and that kit will be 2 master keys, meaning 3 functions buttons and a panic button on each fob, no valet, these keys would be ordered by VIN which is used for cutting of the blade, the other cost is having them programmed to the vehicle, any where from $150-$300 depending on the dealership.
REMEMBER, if you get new keys, be sure to bring all the keys you have to dealership at the time of programming, if you leave a key behind, it gets removed from the vehicles memory and will no longer function as it is no longer paired to the vehicle.
And so I am clear, the forgotten key is not rendered useless forever, you would just have to bring it in along with all the other keys and pay the programming fee all over again.
Johnny
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So I ended up buying those trunk struts on eBay. Very easy to replace. My trunk also did not close fully on replacement. I ended up lubing the struts with differential oil I had lying around, and completely lubricated both hinges. Finally, my trunk operates as it should. Now I need to replace those horrible clips that hold the liner on, as while I was in there, I fixed up the spoiler drains.
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