I plan to replace the rear brake pads and rotors on my 07 CGT.

I've read through the bleed procedure from the service manual. The addition of pumping the pedal while also applying pressure at the master cylinder is strange to me. I've bled several cars before and simply used my Motul pressure bleeder, no brake pumping.

Any reason why they would recommend that? The bleed order is odd, but if that's what the manual calls for, that's what I'll do.

 

@silvertonesx24 ,
If you are only replacing the pads, then there is no need or reason for bleeding, as you will only be opening the rear calipers with the Ross-Tech VCDS, no bleeders will be opened, therefore no lose of fluid or air into the system.

I just power bled my GT brakes with the power bleeder at about 18-20PSI, but also pressing the brake pedal to bleed the ABS module, because eventhough I never had the calipers off the vehicle, I did replace the ABS unit, which means that the 2 supply lines from the master cylinder and the 4 lines from the ABS to each caliper were disconnected, I also just replaced the master cylinder as the original actually started leaking into the vehicle, the problem I had after replacing everything was a soft pedal, even with power bleeding, then after the pressing of the pedal with the ignition on while power bleeding is to actuate the valves inside the ABS unit, the pedal became firm.

Sorry for the long explanation, but just sharing the reason for pressing the brake pedal, I even used Ross-Tech VCDS - 03 ABS/04 basic settings/channel 1 / GO to actuate the valves in the ABS unit.

Also, if you are talking about the odd bleeding order of starting at the right front and then the left front, that is to get max flow and air out if the ABS unit, then a normal bleeding is done after, from right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.

Johnny

 

I did a thread on here recently.
I did not open the bleed screws or get involved with bleeding Not needed .
If you want to do a separate brake fluid flush then as J says power bleed + ignition on starting at the furthest away corner .Very gentle peddle pressure maybe a third of normal travel .

Traditionally with none ABS if you heavy foot all the way to the floorboards with the peddle aggressively there is a risk of damaging the master cylinder o rings / seals .That’s a place you do not want to inadvertently end in .

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ors-bgt-2.html

 

Thanks guys. I replaced the front rotors and pads late last year and plan to finish up with the rear rotors and pads soon (parts on the way) so I figured to complete the job I'd do a full brake bleed anyway.

I've never depressed the brake pedal before while using the power bleeder on other cars, but that's a good warning on the pedal pressure here and good to understand why.

I don't have Ross Tech but I do have a Autel HT200 which has a setting to put the EPB in service mode for Bentley.

 

Curious if anyone can tell me how many liters of brake fluid are required to change the fluid on my 2013 GTC? And I assume DOT4?

 

Yes you should use DOT4, although 5.1 is acceptable if being changed sufficiently frequently.

Unlike almost every fluid in the car, it’s impossible to say precisely how much fluid will be required when renewing the fluid and bleeding the brakes, for it depends on the equipment being used, how many times each circuit is bled and how much fluid is wasted.

If a dealer is doing it, using a pressure bleed system with a pre-filled tank that simply requires replenishment after the task is completed then the answer is probably 1 litre, but if I am doing the job using my vacuum bleed tool then I wouldn’t commence the task without at least a couple of unopened one litre bottles sitting on the shelf.

Also, consider that unless one is changing brake fluid regularly, the fact that it is hygroscopic means that old fluid shouldn’t be used, so anything remaining in the bottle after a change is effectively scrap.

HTH

 

Thank you.