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Flying Spur 2015 - Batteries fine but car won't turn ON
I just drove it about 2 hours ago and now when I went to go restart the car, it wouldn't start. I tried with and without the key in the ignition. With the key in ignition, whether I try normal start or using the engine battery by first turning left, in either case the dashboard lights for the vehicle DO NOT come on. However, the cluster does show exterior lights ON message, door open, trunk boot open etc. I also do not hear the engine starter clicking or attempting to start the car. After some troubleshooting, this is what I know:
Both batteries seem to be fine and show as holding 13.2V
I did try hooking up a fully charged NOCO GB70 2000A to see if jump starting helped but no luck
Inside lights and exterior lights turn on just fine
When I try to connect RossTech VCDS, setup shows CAN system as Not Ready
Before, whenever I inserted the key into ignition, I would hear a this latching sound which meant the car accepted the key. I do not hear this sound anymore.
I did check ALL 3 IP cluster fuses near the steering wheel as well and they are all fine.
@pupdogg ,
The latching sound is the steering column lock mechanism unlocking, so now your steering column is locked, correct ?
It almost sounds like you have the wrong key...
Did you try a second key ?
Please update us as to your past issues, I have asked for updates on those threads, mostly your recent issue with both ECU'S not being reachable via scan.
Please try the holding down of the brake pedal for 20 seconds or more while attempting a scan, the holding of the brake pedal wakes up the system, therefore giving the required voltage to the obd port, while also waking up to CAN-BUS system, others have also said to turn on the hazards, turn signal, of pull the Hi beam stalk and hold while holding the brake pedal.
Have you had any water issues, as the KESSY module is located under the carpet, unless the 2015 has changed location, or have you checked for wetness around the engine ECU'S at the cowl under the hood, also please clarify which year vehicle you are referring to, as some threads you state 2014, and others 2015, so let's all be sure we are on the same vehicle if you have more then one Bentley.
I would also check for current on both sides of each mega fuse in the trunk.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Jun 27, 2021 at 05:40 PM.
Reason: Add question of second key
Hi Johnny, it’s a 2015 as I had fat fingered the post title and was unable to change later. Anyhow, I have both factory keys and I’ve tried both of them and neither one turns it on. However, the car responds to both keys in terms of locking and unlocking via remote and manually. As for the KESSY unit, I’m not sure how to get to it under the carpet. What sucks is that I have a hoist and majority of my tools at my company site and the car is stuck in this mode at my house. I’m going to try and attach some images of the rear trunk battery area for you.
The 2015 is certainly a different layout in the trunk then I am used to..
Is there any message in the driver information center screen as to "immobilizer active", if you lock the doors via remote button, does the keyless entry work with the keyfob in your pocket ?
Have you had any water issues, hard rains, car wash etc ?
If you lock all the doors with say your driver's window down just for precautions, do the security system lights on the door panels flash, that is if the 2015 has them.
No, no severe water issues nor do I see immobilizer active message. Last car wash was about a week ago. I drive this car daily and have been since the beginning. This is summer time in Midwest US and weather has been very nice. Hopefully this video will help you see my issue better: link to video
Last edited by pupdogg; Jun 30, 2021 at 09:11 AM.
Reason: cleaning up clutter
I would have to say that you start checking all fuses in the vehicle, that is check the fuses at the dash, as there are ignition fuses to check, not just the Instrument cluster fuses, then both sides of the trunk, and under the hood on the passenger side.
As all of the keyless entry is working for locking and unlocking, even the beep is working, let me ask you to do this, if you lock the vehicle with the window down, then leave the keys in the house, and reach in through the window to open the door, does the alarm sound, or if you leave the vehicle unlocked with the keys in the house, then get into the vehicle and turn the ignition switch with a nice clean flathead screwdriver to the right to see if Immobilizer Active shows up in the center of the Instrument cluster, the ignition switch has no tumblers, so you can turn it with any VAG key or a flathead screwdriver, it have tested this myself, but use a flathead or just the tip of any other VAG key.
I am not thinking it is a bad ignition switch because the keyless start should still work being that your keyless entry is working, so its like you have no ignition power.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Jun 27, 2021 at 08:03 PM.
I am unable to get the windows down as the car won't even go into the standby mode where all of the electronics turn ON without turning the ignition on. I think that is more of my problem before I can say it has something to do with the ignition. From how I recall it, the car would make that latching sound (which you said was something with the steering column) when I put the key in or lightly pressed the start button to to get into standby mode without turning the engine ON. It no longer makes that sound. Could anything possibly go wrong with the steering column or the electronics that control it?
Ok, sorry, I should have said to put the key-blade in the drivers door lock cylinder and turn and hold to the left, that will put all the windows down, just as turning and holding to the right will put all the windows up, possibly even open and close the sunroof if you have one.
BUT, lets check the relay missing it's cover in the trunk, that is relay #47 for the ignition, as is the 40 amp fuse # 2 power for the ignition.
Ok I will check those tomorrow. However, I’m thinking it could be the relays onboard the steering column actuator that could be fried…I have no problem finding replacement and re-soldering them…do you happen to know if this actuator is easily accessible? Btw, I came across this video on How to fix the Steering Locking Actuator and this link to a service offering the same which I thought were interesting.
Hello @pupdogg ,
I am not sure that is your issue, because I swear that when I had my steering column lock mechanism unplugged, my ignition and instrument cluster still powered up, I will check that theory out again later today after meetings, as I am working on my steering column lock adaptation, as I replaced the steering column as it was a damaged unit from the parts vehicle, it had some in and out play, and a grinding noise...
Oh wow! Well that’s very useful information to have. I’ve been trying to find time between working and being home to troubleshoot and it did not help yesterday as our power went out due to storms. I was able to go through all of the fuses with the exception of fuses inside engine compartment and they were all good except one. The 12V adapter/lighter 15A fuse was blown. I personally ruled that out as the cause of my problem but again I’ve been surprised by many odd things in the past. Another thing I will check today is the ignition relay to make sure it works while apply 12V externally. Outside of that, I saw a video on YouTube where someone was working on repairing the ignition key switch and showed that there were some relays inside it (another possibility out in the wild I guess).
Ok, here’s some update on my issue. So, @Johnny Hotspur GT i tried your window method and got the message “Key not found” when trying to start the vehicle. Another local helper advised that I wake up the CAN just long enough to read error codes on 05 - Auth module and this is what I got:
Code:
Tuesday,29,June,2021,22:58:21:32422
VCDS Version: Release 21.3.0 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 909 137 G HW: 3D0 909 137 G
Component and/or Version: C0 Kessy 6850
Software Coding: 0405741
Work Shop Code: WSC 00083 790 00189
Additional Info: XXXXXXXXXXX ELV XXXX
Additional Info: Geraet 00189
VCID: 2B5503008E7B96D346-807E
4 Faults Found:
00288 - Steering Column Lock Actuator (N360)
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2021.06.27
Time: 13:04:22
00185 - Control Circuit; Relay for Supply Voltage Terminal 15
009 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 41
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2064.00.00
Time: 00:00:14
00576 - Terminal 15
006 - Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100110
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 41
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2064.00.00
Time: 00:00:14
00955 - Key 1
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 41
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2064.00.00
Time: 00:00:14
I then went onto clearing these codes thinking I might get lucky but no, I did not. Instead this time, I just got this code below:
@Johnny Hotspur GT I'm trying to take the trim panel below the steering column off (panel surrounding the Fascia fuses and attached to the lower airbag) and followed this video but it's not snapping off the same way as it did in the video. This is after taking off 5x torx screws on the face and 2x 10mm torx screws underneath it. Do you happen to have a diagram or instructions yon how to get this panel to release? I do believe all of the necessary screws are off. I do not intend on disconnecting any of the wire harnesses to this panel due to the airbag. I just need to get the panel out of the way so that I can access the steering column lock/actuator. Thank you!
Never mind, I got the damn thing out fairly easily. Here’s pix of the steering column locking module in a Flying Spur 2015 https://bit.ly/3hmoGR1…of course, an Audi stamped part. On to the next part of this venture…
Updates
1. Here’s a video of testing the module motor to verify it works and sure thing it does: https://bit.ly/3juuhqZ
Hello @pupdogg ,
Very sorry for my late reply, and I was wrong, I just unplugged my steering column lock mechanism and I then have now power to the dash, just the center display showing the door and trunk open, if I plug in the locking mechanism that is on the replacement steering column I recently installed and turn on the key, I get immobilizer active message...
So, as we all know that the steering column lock mechanism, engine ECU'S, and the KESSY module must all match, be sure to just rebuild your lock mechanism board, as it's chips contain information that pairs all parts together, I mention this because I recently replaced my steering column because it had in and out play, and a grinding noise when turning the wheel, so because I had my vehicle's secret key code I did the adaptation of the replacement column's lock mechanism, WELL, each time I do the adaptation, it lasts for one start of the engine, thank God I did not turn off the vehicle before returning to the shop to discover this issue, I adapted it again, and still only lasts for one start, so I am here now to swap out the mechanism.
Just a note, I did not have to un-solder the two motor leads as shown in the video, my board just popped out.
Great video on testing the motor, I did the same test, motor good both directidirections.
