Misfire on all left side cylinders
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Misfire on all left side cylinders
This has to have a simple fix since it is only affecting cylinders 7-12. Flashing engine light ( obviously). What am I missing?
I've had multiple cylinder misfires before but never all on one side. I'm thinking something to do with the intake on that side? What do you guys think? A quick visual shows nothing out of the ordinary.
Thanks,
Ron
I've had multiple cylinder misfires before but never all on one side. I'm thinking something to do with the intake on that side? What do you guys think? A quick visual shows nothing out of the ordinary.
Thanks,
Ron
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Were all of your cylinders on that one side showing misfires?
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[QUOTE=2007Conti;4902049]This has to have a simple fix since it is only affecting cylinders 7-12. Flashing engine light ( obviously). What am I missing?
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
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[QUOTE=1eapplebaum;4902100]
Thanks.
I haven't driven the car but a couple of miles since I acquired it. Got a smoke machine on the way and will check the vehicle with that. Found out that the cat that I removed and cleaned is the secondary so no change there.
This has to have a simple fix since it is only affecting cylinders 7-12. Flashing engine light ( obviously). What am I missing?
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
Thanks.
I haven't driven the car but a couple of miles since I acquired it. Got a smoke machine on the way and will check the vehicle with that. Found out that the cat that I removed and cleaned is the secondary so no change there.
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[QUOTE=1eapplebaum;4902100]
The latest is that the intake appears to have no leaks. Of course my smoke machine shiite the bed and I didn't get to check the vacuum lines yet. Where did you tap into the vacuum line for your smoke test?
This has to have a simple fix since it is only affecting cylinders 7-12. Flashing engine light ( obviously). What am I missing?
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
Gdmorning,
Flashing CEL = stop driving the car. This condition can result in ruining catalytic converters.
With vcds or equivalent check the codes. Than delete them drive the car once more and see which codes return. Then park the car because of misfires and flashing CEL.
In conjunction with the above smoke test the vacuum lines. Focus on bank 2. Behind the intake manifold the larger vacuum line could be cracked above the steering rack where it isn't visible.
My BGT exhibited similar behavior on bank 1 years ago. We put in metal vacuum lines and solve that problem.
E
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[QUOTE=2007Conti;4902271]
First try an internet query "vacuum line smoke test Bentley Continental GT" will reveal several videos on this topic. Johnny Hotspur and Jason G. have produced good demonstration videos. Some of the videos cover the earlier models where the engine had to come out but the smoke test process is the similar.
Hopefully your lines are good. Your particular BGT will not require engine out if vacuum line conversion to metal is required. The repair is done by removing the steering rack and working from there. One member did this project without removing the rack but was unable to post a video and comprehensive step by step process. A few years ago member Adrenalinejunkie did a step by step posting on his repair of the vacuum lines, by removing the steering rack.
My smoke tester was connected to the large vacuum lines behind the intake manifold. The little black round thing is a check valve, connect after that. The factory clamps which are one-time use will need to be removed. Replace those clamps with fuel injection fuel line clamps or oitiker clamps. Don't use worm clamps (radiator clamps).
Then remove the driver side front inner wheel well splash guard. At the rear of the wheel well is a vacuum pump with a blue tank. Remove the line at the top of the tank that goes back into the engine abyss and connect the smoke tester there.
I'd recommend starting at the back of the manifold since if it leaks then you know what comes next..... vacuum line conversion to metal ie. all the lines.
First try an internet query "vacuum line smoke test Bentley Continental GT" will reveal several videos on this topic. Johnny Hotspur and Jason G. have produced good demonstration videos. Some of the videos cover the earlier models where the engine had to come out but the smoke test process is the similar.
Hopefully your lines are good. Your particular BGT will not require engine out if vacuum line conversion to metal is required. The repair is done by removing the steering rack and working from there. One member did this project without removing the rack but was unable to post a video and comprehensive step by step process. A few years ago member Adrenalinejunkie did a step by step posting on his repair of the vacuum lines, by removing the steering rack.
My smoke tester was connected to the large vacuum lines behind the intake manifold. The little black round thing is a check valve, connect after that. The factory clamps which are one-time use will need to be removed. Replace those clamps with fuel injection fuel line clamps or oitiker clamps. Don't use worm clamps (radiator clamps).
Then remove the driver side front inner wheel well splash guard. At the rear of the wheel well is a vacuum pump with a blue tank. Remove the line at the top of the tank that goes back into the engine abyss and connect the smoke tester there.
I'd recommend starting at the back of the manifold since if it leaks then you know what comes next..... vacuum line conversion to metal ie. all the lines.
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[QUOTE=1eapplebaum;4902279]
First try an internet query "vacuum line smoke test Bentley Continental GT" will reveal several videos on this topic. Johnny Hotspur and Jason G. have produced good demonstration videos. Some of the videos cover the earlier models where the engine had to come out but the smoke test process is the similar.
Hopefully your lines are good. Your particular BGT will not require engine out if vacuum line conversion to metal is required. The repair is done by removing the steering rack and working from there. One member did this project without removing the rack but was unable to post a video and comprehensive step by step process. A few years ago member Adrenalinejunkie did a step by step posting on his repair of the vacuum lines, by removing the steering rack.
My smoke tester was connected to the large vacuum lines behind the intake manifold. The little black round thing is a check valve, connect after that. The factory clamps which are one-time use will need to be removed. Replace those clamps with fuel injection fuel line clamps or oitiker clamps. Don't use worm clamps (radiator clamps).
Then remove the driver side front inner wheel well splash guard. At the rear of the wheel well is a vacuum pump with a blue tank. Remove the line at the top of the tank that goes back into the engine abyss and connect the smoke tester there.
I'd recommend starting at the back of the manifold since if it leaks then you know what comes next..... vacuum line conversion to metal ie. all the lines.
Thanks. Just got my new smoke machine. Getting ready to go.
First try an internet query "vacuum line smoke test Bentley Continental GT" will reveal several videos on this topic. Johnny Hotspur and Jason G. have produced good demonstration videos. Some of the videos cover the earlier models where the engine had to come out but the smoke test process is the similar.
Hopefully your lines are good. Your particular BGT will not require engine out if vacuum line conversion to metal is required. The repair is done by removing the steering rack and working from there. One member did this project without removing the rack but was unable to post a video and comprehensive step by step process. A few years ago member Adrenalinejunkie did a step by step posting on his repair of the vacuum lines, by removing the steering rack.
My smoke tester was connected to the large vacuum lines behind the intake manifold. The little black round thing is a check valve, connect after that. The factory clamps which are one-time use will need to be removed. Replace those clamps with fuel injection fuel line clamps or oitiker clamps. Don't use worm clamps (radiator clamps).
Then remove the driver side front inner wheel well splash guard. At the rear of the wheel well is a vacuum pump with a blue tank. Remove the line at the top of the tank that goes back into the engine abyss and connect the smoke tester there.
I'd recommend starting at the back of the manifold since if it leaks then you know what comes next..... vacuum line conversion to metal ie. all the lines.
Thanks. Just got my new smoke machine. Getting ready to go.
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Well how about that. I have smoke pouring from the back of the engine just like in this video.
Does Jason sell the lines for the 2007? Researching on the best way to R&R them.
Once I had a decent smoke machine going it only took me 30 minutes to lift the car, remove the wheel and splash guard then find the leak . Thanks SO much @1eapplebaum for the help.
Does Jason sell the lines for the 2007? Researching on the best way to R&R them.
Once I had a decent smoke machine going it only took me 30 minutes to lift the car, remove the wheel and splash guard then find the leak . Thanks SO much @1eapplebaum for the help.
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Well how about that. I have smoke pouring from the back of the engine just like in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiSaUcqewDg
Does Jason sell the lines for the 2007? Researching on the best way to R&R them.
Once I had a decent smoke machine going it only took me 30 minutes to lift the car, remove the wheel and splash guard then find the leak . Thanks SO much @1eapplebaum for the help.
Does Jason sell the lines for the 2007? Researching on the best way to R&R them.
Once I had a decent smoke machine going it only took me 30 minutes to lift the car, remove the wheel and splash guard then find the leak . Thanks SO much @1eapplebaum for the help.
Glad you isolated the problem although disheartening.
Use copper nickel brake line which is quite malleable compared to steel brake line. Hand form each line as per the section removed, one at a time. The 5/16 brake line is close enough to 8 mm. The 3/16 brake line works for the smaller line as well. I used oitiker clamps and high-quality rubber fuel line to adapt the metal lines to the factory metal junctions. The various fuel lines & oitiker clamps are available on eBay and Amazon.
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Glad you isolated the problem although disheartening.
Use copper nickel brake line which is quite malleable compared to steel brake line. Hand form each line as per the section removed, one at a time. The 5/16 brake line is close enough to 8 mm. The 3/16 brake line works for the smaller line as well. I used oitiker clamps and high-quality rubber fuel line to adapt the metal lines to the factory metal junctions. The various fuel lines & oitiker clamps are available on eBay and Amazon.
Use copper nickel brake line which is quite malleable compared to steel brake line. Hand form each line as per the section removed, one at a time. The 5/16 brake line is close enough to 8 mm. The 3/16 brake line works for the smaller line as well. I used oitiker clamps and high-quality rubber fuel line to adapt the metal lines to the factory metal junctions. The various fuel lines & oitiker clamps are available on eBay and Amazon.
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Update:
OK, I fixed the leaking vacuum line. No smoke showing anywhere now but I am STILL getting the same misfire codes; all cylinders on the left side (7-12). Flashing engine light only comes on when idling and goes away when moving. No engine light at all except when idling and then it comes on flashing.
WTF?
OK, I fixed the leaking vacuum line. No smoke showing anywhere now but I am STILL getting the same misfire codes; all cylinders on the left side (7-12). Flashing engine light only comes on when idling and goes away when moving. No engine light at all except when idling and then it comes on flashing.
WTF?
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Hopefully this will close out this thread with a POSITIVE!
It is with great trepidation that I admit what a complete idiot I am. Hopefully this can save someone a headache in the future. While trying to track down my misfire problem I DID find a substantial vacuum leak in the typical spot; between the engine and the firewall. Instead of removing the steering rack I opted to reroute the vacuum line using Steven's brilliant idea (documented here on this forum). Took me about 3 hours and the car definitely ran a lot better but was still throwing a few misfire codes. Not all 6 on the left but still enough to trigger the engine light.
Prepared to start ANOTHER smoke test when I was looking at the engine bay. There's the oil dipstick, "Might as well check the oil while I'm thinking about it". Uh, the dipstick wasn't fully seated and created another vacuum issue. Pushed the dipstick all the way in and no more problems.
I have greatly been helped by many forums and have always tried to pay it back by helping if I found a solution. So here's my solution........
Don't be a dumba$$ like me. Check the oil dipstick and any other simple things before tearing things up.
Ron
It is with great trepidation that I admit what a complete idiot I am. Hopefully this can save someone a headache in the future. While trying to track down my misfire problem I DID find a substantial vacuum leak in the typical spot; between the engine and the firewall. Instead of removing the steering rack I opted to reroute the vacuum line using Steven's brilliant idea (documented here on this forum). Took me about 3 hours and the car definitely ran a lot better but was still throwing a few misfire codes. Not all 6 on the left but still enough to trigger the engine light.
Prepared to start ANOTHER smoke test when I was looking at the engine bay. There's the oil dipstick, "Might as well check the oil while I'm thinking about it". Uh, the dipstick wasn't fully seated and created another vacuum issue. Pushed the dipstick all the way in and no more problems.
I have greatly been helped by many forums and have always tried to pay it back by helping if I found a solution. So here's my solution........
Don't be a dumba$$ like me. Check the oil dipstick and any other simple things before tearing things up.
Ron
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Hi dear
miss fire on bank 1 or bank 2 engine ecu happens because of short ground at one of the engine ecu’s , the issue is 6 cylinders has high gas pressure and misfiring and stalling and the exhaust catalyst will be hot and red so if thing happens to your car check the bank of the ecu that you have issue with , and re install one wire pin in the engine ecu that is moved from the ecu terminal.
thanks I hope that I can help .
miss fire on bank 1 or bank 2 engine ecu happens because of short ground at one of the engine ecu’s , the issue is 6 cylinders has high gas pressure and misfiring and stalling and the exhaust catalyst will be hot and red so if thing happens to your car check the bank of the ecu that you have issue with , and re install one wire pin in the engine ecu that is moved from the ecu terminal.
thanks I hope that I can help .
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Hopefully this will close out this thread with a POSITIVE!
It is with great trepidation that I admit what a complete idiot I am. Hopefully this can save someone a headache in the future. While trying to track down my misfire problem I DID find a substantial vacuum leak in the typical spot; between the engine and the firewall. Instead of removing the steering rack I opted to reroute the vacuum line using Steven's brilliant idea (documented here on this forum). Took me about 3 hours and the car definitely ran a lot better but was still throwing a few misfire codes. Not all 6 on the left but still enough to trigger the engine light.
Prepared to start ANOTHER smoke test when I was looking at the engine bay. There's the oil dipstick, "Might as well check the oil while I'm thinking about it". Uh, the dipstick wasn't fully seated and created another vacuum issue. Pushed the dipstick all the way in and no more problems.
I have greatly been helped by many forums and have always tried to pay it back by helping if I found a solution. So here's my solution........
Don't be a dumba$$ like me. Check the oil dipstick and any other simple things before tearing things up.
Ron
It is with great trepidation that I admit what a complete idiot I am. Hopefully this can save someone a headache in the future. While trying to track down my misfire problem I DID find a substantial vacuum leak in the typical spot; between the engine and the firewall. Instead of removing the steering rack I opted to reroute the vacuum line using Steven's brilliant idea (documented here on this forum). Took me about 3 hours and the car definitely ran a lot better but was still throwing a few misfire codes. Not all 6 on the left but still enough to trigger the engine light.
Prepared to start ANOTHER smoke test when I was looking at the engine bay. There's the oil dipstick, "Might as well check the oil while I'm thinking about it". Uh, the dipstick wasn't fully seated and created another vacuum issue. Pushed the dipstick all the way in and no more problems.
I have greatly been helped by many forums and have always tried to pay it back by helping if I found a solution. So here's my solution........
Don't be a dumba$$ like me. Check the oil dipstick and any other simple things before tearing things up.
Ron
Last edited by Owner bentley; Jun 3, 2022 at 09:58 AM.