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@sazam ,
I use this battery/load tester, the batteries remain connected.
This tester is nice, gives state of charge, plus state of health, along with other readings.
My battery tester (TopDon) showed that house battery (while off the car) is great and registering full CCAs (860A even though battery is rated at 850A lol). However, at idle, the multimeter shows house battery at 11.6v which later goes up to 12v on its own and starter battery at 14v. I'm wondering why the house battery is not reaching 13s with the car idling or even high 12v. So I'm now starting to clean all relevant contact points of corrosion to see if that helps, started with relay 49 in the boot fuse box which is marked '432'. The pins definitely had carbon and are now nice and shiny. This did not really make much of a difference. So my question is, is there a component in the system that may be PREVENTING adequate charge from reaching the house battery?
Not sure if relevant, but earlier I used to hear the parallel solenoid relay activating now and then in the boot, very audible clunk. I don't hear it anymore. Could it be faulty? Is there a way to confirm?
No errors on the scan pertaining to the parallel solenoid relay though.
Last edited by virtual_law; Jan 29, 2025 at 05:26 AM.
Every single electrical component checked out fine, so I bit the bullet and ordered a remanufactured alternator.
Havent put it in yet.
Shall do so and update.
Big update!
With alternator installed, both batteries now receiving full charge (13.7v+) as soon as car is started. It was indeed a faulty alternator! Hope this helps someone!
