Great and wonderful mr. Johny ,

so right now I’ll work on it with pics and reply with in a couple days .

 

@Owner bentley ,
I just wanted to add a few pictures to clarify the difference between the heated and non heated housings, the 87°C non heated thermostat comes out as I pictured previously, meaning, that the mounting stud/shaft comes out with the thermostat, whereas the 100° and 105°C thermostat housings retain said shaft in the housing itself, as it is part of the heating element, SO, when removing the thermostat from the shaft, do not put pressure side to side, slide it straight up and off the shaft.

Here is a 100°C electric heating element thermostat housing with the thermostat removed.

You never did post any pictures of your thermostat, or answer as to your testing of either electric heating element with an ohm tester, please do.

Johnny

.

 

Check the radiator cooling fans to make sure they are moving air the proper direction.

If one or more are trying to push air out the front, your car will overheat while driving at or near the speed in which the fan pressure cancels out the air incoming from the grille.

 

Here it’s ,

so right now I remove the 87c thermostat and install it on 106c housing ,

this is the difference between 87and 106c heated element with circuit,

And coolant sensor that located on rear of the engine had been replaced

sorry about the testing ohms , I read the thread late,

The car still not tested and driven , the fans won’t to run except when i unplug the coolant sensor or the temps go’s above 107c in obd wifi iOS

and when shutting the engine of i hear the fans work
The gauges read 90c


87 housing it has a shaft but no wiring


This is 106c housing

 

Hello Johnny

as you say

the 87°C non heated thermostat comes with stud/shaft comes out with the thermostat, where is the 100° and 105°C thermostat housings retain stud/ shaft in the housing itself

But about the 87th (non heated) it’s possible to remove the shaft from the thermostat or from the housing itself .


note: never try to remove the shaft from electric heated element thermostat because the shaft already connected to the wiring if you do it will broke up , I test this on the old thermostat (105) before I threw it .

 

@Owner bentley ,
I do not know what happened to your writing quoted above and in your previous post, very light, hard to read..

Anyway, once again your comments are hard to follow, you said that you gave wrong information before, 100° vs 105°, now you say that you tested removing the heating element from the "old 105°", you don't have an old 105°, I certainly hope that you followed my information and my pictures above, that you infact have the original 100° that you tested removing the heating element from, and not on the as you stated Audi 106° thermostat housing...

PLEASE BE CLEAR.
You were to remove the 87° thermostat and it's shaft from it's 87° marked housing, then pull the shaft out of the 87° thermostat as I previously showed im my pictures, then you were to remove just the "106°" thermostat from it's housing leaving the 106° housing's heating element in place, therefore sliding the 87° thermostat onto the "106°" heating element and securing it in place, please tell me that is what you did.

You say the car is not tested and driven, yet you mentioned temperatures of 107°, and fans not running, etc.
Is the engine back together, thermostat in place, you are not turning on the ignition or powering up the heating element of the thermostat in anyway without it submerged in coolant, are you ?

I asked for detailed history, but you just threw a blanket statement out about everything bad, bad in which way, is the engine original, has it been out of the vehicle chassis, has any work been performed on the engine wiring harness at all ?

If you have the engine all back together and running with coolant filled, is this now were you are seeing 90° on the dash, and 107° on the obd reader, if so, is the engine coolant boiling over, spitting out of the coolant tank, or is it at 90° on the dash, and is the radiator now warm ?

If I understand you correctly, when the engine is idling, the fans are NOT running, if so, what happens when you switch on the AC, make sure the AC is NOT in ECON mode, so when you turn the AC on with all temps set to LOW, do the radiator fans kick on ?

On your model year with the electric heating element fitted thermostat, as is my 2005 A8L W12, the fans barely come on at idle, because the system is designed to run hotter at idle for less pollution, same with the Bentley, they are designed that way, and the gauge on the dash does not even move off of the 12 o'clock position, which is 90°C /194°F on my A8L, because the gauges are set to react to a certain range, or not, not till it gets past a safety point of hotness, then the gauge will show, and warnings will go off.

As far as your fans running after you turn off the engine, this is kind of leading me to believe we are not getting the full story, I have the same exact operation of my fans on the GT, my fans run normal very low speeds if at all at idle on startup, and they operate up and down in speed depending upon engine loads and temperature, BUT, when I turn my engine off, my fans run exactly for 7 minutes, I have timed it quite a few times, my issue is that I have a complete matching 2011 Supersports engine, ECU'S, transmission, instrument cluster, etc package installed in my 2005 GT body with a 2006/07 body wiring harness, and the 2011 engine/ECU'S package wiring harness plugged into a 2005 radiator cooling fan setup, so I know that I am either missing, or I have a problem with one wire, it is yellow and brown, and goes from the ecu's to the fan control modules, BUT, I like the fact that my fans and the after run coolant pumps run for 7 minutes cooling the engine and turbos down, instead of heat soaking everything, BUT, I know that my house battery isn't happy about working for 7 minutes without it's alternator friend supplying power...

Johnny

 

the 105c/100c thermostat I threw it from before along time it was broken and bad.

and about now I had removed the 87 from it house and install it to the electric 106 Audi housing , this is what I did now.

Note. Bank 2 cylinder head is warmer than bank 1,

coolant is cold when bank 2 cylinder head is hot i don’t know what is happening

ithink is the heating element need to program write?

 

Passenger side MAF sensor when unplugged the car not shutting off, and the driver side one when unplugged the car shutting off , when I turn the steering wheel full side the engine shuts off , what is that !!

 

@Owner bentley ,
Why do you constantly keep making comments that come across as to the 100° and 105° being the one in the same, or better said, as one unit ?
It comes across as confusing, almost like you actually have 4 thermostats, 100° 105° 106° and 87°...
I will add, I asked you to post pictures of the thermostats, yet you fail to post one picture showing the information engraved on the side of each thermostat housing as requested.

There is only a 100° for the 2003 to 2006 Bentley, and the 87° for the 2007 and newer Bentley, NOT a 100° thermostat inside a 105° housing, so please stop, give the proper information.

There are no easy settings as to changing the heating element range, nor is it that simple for the fan speeds, and being that you still have failed to post a scan, I cannot continue to guess, as you never give the full story, or a detailed response to my questions.

First off as to your issues, you say it is "overheating", yet you fail to answer my questions as to the engine coolant system actually overheating, as in boiling over, spitting coolant out coolant at the coolant tank, so please answer that question.

As you say that the Instrument cluster gauge is at 90°, then, it is NOT overheating, if NOW as you posted in another thread what you are trying to say is that the word "OVERHEATING" is displayed in the DIS (driver information screen), then, being that the gauge is in the proper range, then the "OVERHEATING" message almost certainly has to do with the passenger side (LHD) BANK 1 EGT sensor, it's a known issue, I understand that you stated that you replaced both EGT sensors, yet, you still don't have a scan to show the faults cleared, or any other faults for that matter.

As to your comments about the catalyst convertor being hot and glowing red, which side was it, did you remove and inspect said convertor for damage / broken pieces / being clogged ?

You also said in the same comment that the passenger side exhaust was cold while the other side was hot, and that you fixed some wiring to the ECU, did this wiring repair take care of the convertor glowing red, or the passenger side exhaust blowing cold exhaust at the exhaust tip ?
As the way you said it, it leads one to that it took care of the convertor glowing, so, what about the cold exhaust blowing out, and again, which side was the convertor glowing ?
Is it that the convertor is, or was clogged, therefore it was not even blowing exhaust out the rear passenger side, therefore you thought it was cold ?

As to your comment of one head being colder than the other, is the engine misfiring, are all cylinders firing properly ?

If I am going to continue to help you, you need the Ross-Tech VCDS or ODIS VAS 5054 to give proper information on faults.

Johnny

 

good afternoon dear,
Now ill explain about the thermostat that I have now

along time ago I have the original once it’s 100c

it was broken and I just throw it ,

now iam using 87c on 106c housing

the coolant is not getting out from the tank

but the fan works full speed when temps go’s above 90 on the dash after roaming for 15 mins then it’s cool down at few moments the. After that the fans start normally works at normal speed .

the catalyst converter is not getting red like before it was as bank 1 passenger side LHD

the wiring ground ecu bank 1 fix already from before ,

egt sensors are new but not oem it’s Chinese

the engine not misfiring but also when I get for a ride and came back still one time exhaust hot and one is cold

the weather temp here about 20c.

I would like to add that all fuel injector plug connectors have been changed without cutting the wires , iused Nissan plugs , I will give some photos for it tonight.

now that I can do is using the vcds. I can show all codes better , the story of the car is to long

iam here to inform everything is showing to me

I appreciate your support .

 

I think one of the wires are swapped !!

They are in incorrect positions

which one is correct

the blue and red wire should be left or right 🧐