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Hello @yanacha ,
I hope you are doing fine also, besides you SAI issue.
I would first check for the operation of the B-1 SAI pump itself, by checking the fuse # 29, and relay #36, then, or first, check the connection of the tubing at the bank 1 combo valve right at the front of the engine, on the left facing the engine, the tubing does run down under and behind the headlight pocket, I did some color schemes to show which is B1, and B2, check that the tubing is not cracked itself, if the pumps are both running properly, and the connection at the combo valve is good, and the tubing checks out, then check the air intake filter/muffler for and clogging.
thank you for your message, and explanation, I can hear the pump running thanks to the VCDS, during a control test so I can eliminate the fuse and relay problem, or you think it even if it works the fuse and relay can be blamed???
I just ordered a new pump.
07K959253A secondary air pump.
what do you think of the pressure sensor 07C906051??
Hello friends, I hope you are doing well.
here I am for the change of the pump.
a question how do you adjust the headlights?
the connection of the pump is with oxidation
Hi I'm new to the board. My 2010 Super Sports is making me Crazy
About two months ago I developed a bit of exhaust noise on the right side (RHD Car). Turned out to be the gasket after the turbo, so engine was pulled by an independent shop. Changed all the pertinent vacuum lines and all the exhaust gaskets from the front of the turbo back.
Car was test driven and alignment was done, shop said everything was fine. Delivered back on a slide truck, as soon as I started the car to take it off the truck I get en engine light.
I drove it briefly and found it was not running on all cylinders. I ran a scan tool and I got random miss fires on bank 1. I decided to change out the coils which I did myself, and found the connectors were brittle and should be changed, so I got new connectors and swapped in the
existing pins that were in good condition with no signs of corrosion or frayed wires. I then got hold of an ODIS 7.1.1 and ran it and reset all the codes. Started the car & it ran perfectly. Took it for a 15 minute drive, all good, smooth power same as it was before the engine out.
Come back, let it sit for about 5 hours, start it again, engine light & rough idle. Scanned it again & getting faults on all 6 cylinders Bank 1. (Forgot to mention spark plugs were also change when the engine was out, along with the belt & tensioner)Ignition Coil A Primary/secondary Circuit. P0351 No signal/communication
Ignition Coil A Primary/secondary Circuit. P0352 No signal/communication
Ignition Coil A Primary/secondary Circuit. P0356 No signal/communication
849 4 P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/secondary Circuit (No signal/communication static) 850 4 P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit (No Signal/Communication Intermittent)
These codes do randomly change (see screenshot)
Couln't figure out how to attache the creenshots
Other codes wer as follows
08960 002 (P2300), Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low Lower limit not reached (static)
•08978 002 (P2312), Ignition Coil "E" Primary Control Circuit Low Lower limit not reached (static)
08966 002 (P2306), Ignition Coil "C" Primary Control Circuit Low Lower limit not reached (static)
08981 002 (P2315), Ignition Coil "F" Primary Control Circuit Low Lower limit not reached (static)
• 00850 004 (P0352), Ignition Coil B Primary/secondary Circuit No signal/communication (static)
› 08976 001 (P2310), Ignition Coil "D" Primary Control Circuit High Upper limit exceeded (static)
When I start the car with these codes present I get no heat from the Bank 1 exhaust, but Bank 2 is normal
When I clear the codes, the car runs perfectly, I re-scan with the engine running, no codes, normal exhaust
heat & full power. Test drive the car, all good, park it and scan again. No codes. Next start up after 30 minutes it starts all over again.
The only other code I did get 1 time was a P0491 code, so I ran the test for the fuse/relay & can hear the pump, but I am wondering if it could be the SAI pump sensor or a weak pump
and it causes the ECU to shut down Bank 1 and just stop it from firing the coils.
Any ideas would be much appreciated, I have looked for vacuum leaks, loose or disconnected wires, I cleaned the ECU connectors, checked all the ground wires Etc. I am running out of ideas
short of changing the SAI pump(s) and sensors, and maybe the Kombo valves.
Does anyone know if it's OK to swap the Bank1 /Bank 2 ECU's to eliminate a damaged ECU?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have had this car for 5 years & it has been relatively trouble free apart from routine maintenance, but now I am stumped.
As to your issues, I do not see the secondary air injection pump for bank 1 being the issue, I have a SAI fault, it is a wiring issue that I must attend to, but it doesn't stop the engine from running properly, on the other hand, any vacuum leak will cause misfires, but for your whole bank to misfire and then go dead (cold exhaust) as you said, leads me to believe that you have a wiring issue with the coil connection plugs you replaced, which in turn brings up the question of, did you replace all 12 coil connection plugs for banks 1 & 2, and did you replace all 12 coils to match, or did you just do bank 1, and which brand coils did you install ?
As to swapping the ECU'S 1 & 2, I highly suggest that you mark each ECU 1 & 2 as to match the numbers 1 & 2 stickers on the wiring harness plug ends, you don't want to take them out and mix them up, now as to swapping them, I refer to @BWings for that clarification, I recall that a pin #49 may be of a different use, or something to that matter, but if memory serves me correctly, it was BWings that had that conversation with others here.
I myself would swap them to see if the issue goes to bank 2, it may cause another fault, but atleast it would test the firing of cylinders.
As to your issues, I do not see the secondary air injection pump for bank 1 being the issue, I have a SAI fault, it is a wiring issue that I must attend to, but it doesn't stop the engine from running properly, on the other hand, any vacuum leak will cause misfires, but for your whole bank to misfire and then go dead (cold exhaust) as you said, leads me to believe that you have a wiring issue with the coil connection plugs you replaced, which in turn brings up the question of, did you replace all 12 coil connection plugs for banks 1 & 2, and did you replace all 12 coils to match, or did you just do bank 1, and which brand coils did you install ?
As to swapping the ECU'S 1 & 2, I highly suggest that you mark each ECU 1 & 2 as to match the numbers 1 & 2 stickers on the wiring harness plug ends, you don't want to take them out and mix them up, now as to swapping them, I refer to @BWings for that clarification, I recall that a pin #49 may be of a different use, or something to that matter, but if memory serves me correctly, it was BWings that had that conversation with others here.
I myself would swap them to see if the issue goes to bank 2, it may cause another fault, but atleast it would test the firing of cylinders.
Johnny
You should be able to swap ECU 1 and 2 without issue.
They are essentially clones of each other with the Immobilizer info being read off of ECU 1.
Whichever ECU is on 1 will be Master
Whichever ECU is on 2 will be Slave.
The way this is determined is through Pin 49 that you spoke of.
On the wiring harness going to ECU 1, the wiring going to Pin 49 carries a 12+.
On the wiring harness going to ECU 2, the wiring going to Pin 49 carries a ground.
The ECU that has 12+ on Pin 49 thus acts as the master and the ECU that has ground on Pin 49 acts as the Slave.
I have swapped the ECU's from 1 to 2 many times on the W12, and there is no change in the car.
As to your issues, I do not see the secondary air injection pump for bank 1 being the issue, I have a SAI fault, it is a wiring issue that I must attend to, but it doesn't stop the engine from running properly, on the other hand, any vacuum leak will cause misfires, but for your whole bank to misfire and then go dead (cold exhaust) as you said, leads me to believe that you have a wiring issue with the coil connection plugs you replaced, which in turn brings up the question of, did you replace all 12 coil connection plugs for banks 1 & 2, and did you replace all 12 coils to match, or did you just do bank 1, and which brand coils did you install ?
As to swapping the ECU'S 1 & 2, I highly suggest that you mark each ECU 1 & 2 as to match the numbers 1 & 2 stickers on the wiring harness plug ends, you don't want to take them out and mix them up, now as to swapping them, I refer to @BWings for that clarification, I recall that a pin #49 may be of a different use, or something to that matter, but if memory serves me correctly, it was BWings that had that conversation with others here.
I myself would swap them to see if the issue goes to bank 2, it may cause another fault, but atleast it would test the firing of cylinders.
Johnny
Hi Johnny
Thank you for your input. I did only change the coils & Connectors on Bank 1, I used the original coils from Flying Spares, and ordered the connectors from Audi. I changed the connector housings myself, and I did them one wire at a time, being careful to make sure the pins were in the same sequence. Not sure why there are 2 grounds on each coil connector, but I tested the grounds & ignition leads with a meter, I was unable to test the triggers as I don't have a scope. As there are no issues with Bank 2, I thought it's better to leave them alone. The main issue is that every time I erase the codes
the motor starts & runs perfectly, and will not throw the codes again until the next cold start. This indicates to me that there is no wiring issue, as the engine is able to run normally for a period of time, and makes
good power, no engine light & idles perfectly smooth at 600 rpm. Only when shutting down for more that a few minutes, I will get the issue again on the next start up. I did replace both batteries as well, about a
month before the engine was removed. I am leaning towards a sensor somewhere that has the ability to tell one ecu to shut down, but there are so many sensors & none showing a fault code, I don't know where to start.
"You should be able to swap ECU 1 and 2 without issue. They are essentially clones of each other with the Immobilizer info being read off of ECU 1. Whichever ECU is on 1 will be Master Whichever ECU is on 2 will be Slave. The way this is determined is through Pin 49 that you spoke of. On the wiring harness going to ECU 1, the wiring going to Pin 49 carries a 12+. On the wiring harness going to ECU 2, the wiring going to Pin 49 carries a ground.
The ECU that has 12+ on Pin 49 thus acts as the master and the ECU that has ground on Pin 49 acts as the Slave.
I have swapped the ECU's from 1 to 2 many times on the W12, and there is no change in the car.?
Thank you for that. I was afraid that the 2 ECU's were not swapable. I will try this next, at least it will eliminate if I might have a damaged ECU, as this is something else I have been thinking about.
So yesterday I swapped the 2 ECU's but was unable to start the car, due to "Immobilizer Activated" in the center cluster screen.
I swapped them back again, and car starts but still has the same issue. In the next few days I will inspect the underside of the engine exhaust and look for any loose or damaged wires or components that can't be seen from above.
There is also a strange ticking/clicking noise coming from the vicinity of the right rear exhaust under the car upon starting it. Lasts for 3-4 minutes
There is also a strange ticking/clicking noise coming from the vicinity of the right rear exhaust under the car upon starting it. Lasts for 3-4 minutes
So yesterday I swapped the 2 ECU's but was unable to start the car, due to "Immobilizer Activated" in the center cluster screen.
I swapped them back again, and car starts but still has the same issue. In the next few days I will inspect the underside of the engine exhaust and look for any loose or damaged wires or components that can't be seen from above.
There is also a strange ticking/clicking noise coming from the vicinity of the right rear exhaust under the car upon starting it. Lasts for 3-4 minutes
when you swapped the ECUs, did the key still make a click noise when you put it in the key slot?
Also, did you wait 5 minutes after swapping the ECUs?
From what I know, it will kick on the immobilizer active for about 5 mins after, and if you try to start the car, it will kill the engine...but as long as the key makes a click noise when you put it in, car should start after 5 min...
HI. I didn't know there was a procedure for the Immobilizer. I didn't' insert the key, just tried to start as usual with the Keyless Go. Engine did crank, but then the Immobilizer Active popped up. Will try again as you suggested. I left the scuttle panel cover & wipers off for the time being so it's easy to swap the connectors around now.
Does anyone know the correct procedure to swap the ECU's. I have tried twice and still getting the immobilizer activated.
Car starts OK with them in correct positions, and yes, it clicks and starts into an powered up mode when I insert the key.
First time I tried I only used keyless to try to start, then I tried again a few weeks ago using what was written above, swap them, wait 10 min, then insert the key wait another 5-6 minutes then try to start with the key. It cranked, fired & then shut down with the immobilizer again. I must be missing something i the procedure.
Could anyone tell me the exact procedure that should work? Starting with, should I disconnect both batteries. (I didn't)?
Any help would be much appreciated, Just want to rule out a faulty ECU before I go any further.
Thanks in advance for any more input / ideas on this
P.S. Last time I worked on the car (a few weeks ago) it started right up, and ran perfect on all cylinders, making good power just like it always has. Went for a 5 minute test drive, then parked the car.
later that evening went for a longer drive, about 25 minutes, mixed city/highway driving, everything was normal, then stopped at a grocery store, shopped about 20 minutes, started the car again & got
immediate engine light & bank one gone again.
