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i am confused what you did to check voltage - you dont need to disconnect anything to check voltage - you need to do it in you check amperage.
anyway - this cable you are reffering to on the top is to the facial fuse box, so no surprise it gets power
shorting = make the power directly to your compressor omitting any electronic, controls etc to see if motor just runs
vcds = if your air suspension system detects anomalies and fires errors then the system wont start - you need to check these errors clear them check if they come back and if yes you need to fix the problem
you say about battery consumptions so you just have the battery depleted that the electronics gone crazy and you need to power up your battery first - this is super critical before starting any investigations
I checked it using voltmeter and it shows 12v running, other 3 cables shows 0.0v, this method I saw on YouTube channels used by big engine mechanics to locate where is the leaking is coming from.
I disconnected all the fuses in driver side and still shows 12v, so it must supply another location.
should I connect a direct 12v supply to the compressor from under the car or there is another way?
I checked it via thinkdiag and found miss fire 01-02-03-04-05-06, also level control fault code, it won’t erased and keeps coming back.
Hi Shaqovic.
Maybe this is an unnecessary question. But have you forgotten to take the car out of "jack mode"? The compressor will never kick-in whilst the car is in jack mode.
Hi Shaqovic.
Maybe this is an unnecessary question. But have you forgotten to take the car out of "jack mode"? The compressor will never kick-in whilst the car is in jack mode.
When I start the car I press both buttons and jack mode reads on dash, I press them again and the same happen, I guess I tried both and no compressor worked!
how to be sure jack mode is off ?
The second press of those buttons should clear the "Jack mode" message instead of showing it again. I would start by finding out why it behaves that way before going any further.
I would also start by trying to switch the car off after the first press of the buttons, but only after the "jack mode" message followed by the "Level control failure" message appears on screen. Take the key out of the ignition. Wait a minute or two, and start the car up again, wait for the "level control failure" message appears and then do again the pressing of the buttons to see if it clear that "level control failure" message.
First, please explain again what piece of equipment you used to test the voltage, and please post the link to the video you watched, as all 4 cables should have 12 plus volts at all times when hooked up to the bus bar as shown in the photo you posted, I know that is not your photo of your vehicle, so, if 3 have no power then check each of their mega fuses with a continuity/ohm tester, as what you are saying is not coming across to clearly, on the other hand if you were doing an amperage draw test, and took the cables off and put an amp tester in-between the line and the load, then you would see an amperage draw of some amount, or none, you would not see 12.4 volts, maybe 12.4 amps.... ??
As to your suspension, being that you jacked it up to just about normal height, that may be the reason, because it isn't low enough, BUT, as others said, jack mode, and you also say you have a suspension fault code, what is that fault code ?
As to misfires on all 6 cylinders 1-6 on the right bank, that is odd, as that is the opposite side with the white smoke..
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; May 7, 2023 at 04:31 PM.
First, please explain again what piece of equipment you used to test the voltage, and please post the link to the video you watched, as all 4 cables should have 12 plus volts at all times when hooked up to the bus bar as shown in the photo you posted, I know that is not your photo of your vehicle, so, if 3 have no power then check each of their mega fuses with a continuity/ohm tester, as what you are saying is not coming across to clearly, on the other hand if you were doing an amperage draw test, and took the cables off and put an amp tester in-between the line and the load, then you would see an amperage draw of some amount, or none, you would not see 12.4 volts, maybe 12.4 amps.... ??
As to your suspension, being that you jacked it up to just about normal height, that may be the reason, because it isn't low enough, BUT, as others said, jack mode, and you also say you have a suspension fault code, what is that fault code ?
As to misfires on all 6 cylinders 1-6 on the right bank, that is odd, as that is the opposite side with the white smoke..
Johnny
Hi Johnny,
I used voltmeter to test the cables, I disconnected each cable separately of those 4 and put one side of voltmeter on it and the other end on the positive battery terminal, cable 2,3 and 4 shows 0.0v only first cable shows 12v.
I started the car today and it blows huge white smoke from driver side only and after 1-2 mins smoke stopped and still passenger side rev isn’t normal it’s like in the video needle is not stable.
I pressed both buttons and it shows jack mode on screen, switched off and on the car and it says jack mode again, pressed again and off then on the car and it still says jack mode, also yellow car is showing on top of the dash, can’t turn off jack mode manually I guess, I tried to change height every time and it says level change not possible.
Is there a way to activate the compressor via direct 12v source ?
also I took a picture of the driver side fuse box, it seems not confusing for 2005 GT
also I connected voltmeter on first cable as mentioned above and removed fuses one by one and 12v is still shows on voltmeter !
I guess this car is haunted !
@Shaqovic ,
I think I follow what you are trying to do, but I do not believe that it will work on the Bentley, it's not an old truck or vehicle with simple on/off switches, or it may, see below.
I rewrote this as I was thinking of how are you getting a 12 volt reading on the upper cable when it is disconnected from the battery bus bar, because the upper cable is disconnected, and therefore not supplying positive feed to certain circuits, those circuits become a ground source feeding over to the positive side of a circuit, module, relay etc., maybe a closed circuit, or as what I believe the thinking is, one that fails to go to sleep/shutdown/disconnect ect, so you are doing by voltage, instead of amperage draw on that cable, got it.
As to your removing the facia fuses, you are looking at it in reverse, and now I understand why, with the upper cable acting as a ground, you are using a theory that if the upper cable becomes the ground while disconnected, somehow that means that a circuit is still running so to say, I am not sure with all of these electronics if that test will work, I call on @BWings and @Bentley Tech NC for their thoughts.
Also, the upper cable with 150 mega fuse, not only does it supply the drivers "Facia" fuse box, it also supplies the "E" fuse-box, which has the smoothing capacitor, along with the "Thermal" fuse-box under the drivers side carpet next to the KESSY module, this thermal box has 4 circuit breakers, not fuses.
The "Facia" fuse-box box is also supplied by 4th cable down, with the 80 amp mega fuse.
You didn't say what the fault code was for the suspension, any other codes for the engine besides the misfires ?
Did you get a Ross-Tech VCDS yet ?
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; May 7, 2023 at 07:32 PM.
we wont be able to help too much without more precise info - the full vcds scan would be needed.
1. i am speculating he can not pump the suspension cause there are errors in air module
2. jack mode wont work in that case (errors/defects reported in the module)
3. there are too many different issues - where for sure it is need to conrirm the battery is in great condition prior to dealing with diagnosis
4. when shaqovic says left side right side etc what he actually indicating? this may be confusing in diagnosis of the white smoke vs cyllinders with misfire / bank.
5. shaqovic started with rough idle issue then air suspension fix (why) and then with power consumption and finally talked about white smoke - too much at one time to discuss about :/
1. charge batteries
2. disconnect hose battery for 15 mins then back
3. do vcds scan record errors then clear dtcs and scan again and record errors
4. come back with these scans here
5. tell the reasons of all your jobs on air suspension battery voltage checks etc
5. make sure as the team says to put the car on a level where sensors wont complain on the level out of range (wood etc)
6. short the power to compressor if it is not starting after clearing the dtcs.
I do not have access to vcds, I need to take the car to Indy for this.
the problem is how to drive/tow the car, I was thinking to remove the front wheels and inflate the shocks via small tire inflator to rise the car to drive it.
would this be possible ?
we wont be able to help too much without more precise info - the full vcds scan would be needed.
1. i am speculating he can not pump the suspension cause there are errors in air module
2. jack mode wont work in that case (errors/defects reported in the module)
3. there are too many different issues - where for sure it is need to conrirm the battery is in great condition prior to dealing with diagnosis
4. when shaqovic says left side right side etc what he actually indicating? this may be confusing in diagnosis of the white smoke vs cyllinders with misfire / bank.
5. shaqovic started with rough idle issue then air suspension fix (why) and then with power consumption and finally talked about white smoke - too much at one time to discuss about :/
1. charge batteries
2. disconnect hose battery for 15 mins then back
3. do vcds scan record errors then clear dtcs and scan again and record errors
4. come back with these scans here
5. tell the reasons of all your jobs on air suspension battery voltage checks etc
5. make sure as the team says to put the car on a level where sensors wont complain on the level out of range (wood etc)
6. short the power to compressor if it is not starting after clearing the dtcs.
Updates.
The batteries are good showing 12.5-6v, when car started going up to 13.9-14v
i do not have access to vcds at the moment, I would need to find an Indy to visit my car at home, yet I am wondering if VAG-COM KKL CH340 409.1Test Line Cable will work as Ross tech or even similar 😞
The left side is driver side, and when I start the car first time it blows a huge cloud of smoke( video attached)
I still need to level height to normal so I can take the car to Indy for full diagnosis/repair, today I tried to short the compressor via replay, connected a cable between plug 3 and 5, compressor making noises(video attached) but car is not lifting.
I still need to find a way to lift the car, I will remove the driver’s wheel and try to use air compressor to inflate the air suspension, has anyone tried this method ?
