Hi, I have P2279, P0300, P0301 thru P0306 codes showing on, I already fixed vacuum hoses behind the engine and on top of the transmission, and no leaks showing in test, but these codes still poping out and still having a slight rough idle my car, I replaced Bank 1 PCV valve today, and it was ripped off the diaphragm, I installed a new unit from Flying Spares but after a while code P2279 still showing up, at this point I don't know if I need to replace the other bank PCV or if I have timing chain problems.
¿Do I'm missing anything to check up?
​​​​​This are the values of my Bank 1 timing chain, I don't really know how to interpret these values, any help is appreciated...

 

Hello,

Good start repairing the stated vacuum lines. However something else is leaking. Your codes are misfires as a result of a vacuum leak. Keep looking. There are many possibilities for other vacuum leaks. Make sure your air boxes are seated properly to the turbocharger down pipe and that the "o" rings are not damaged. The PCV hard lines to the intake manifold are sometimes brittle. So check these lines and the "o" rings inside the connector on the intake manifold. Anyway you have to keep exploring...sometimes the obvious is hidden on our B's.😏

Forget the timing chain theory unless there is more to that thought.

 

These codes seems to be very common and extremely problematic in VW vehicles. I replaced the diaphragm in the bank 2 PCV as well since it was ripped off, I replaced it with a Dorman kit, used original spring, so now I have no vacuum when removing the oil cap and the idle has improved, I performed a throttle body calibration too, unfortunately P2279 and misfires codes (P03XX) still appearing as well as P0134 and P1455.
Both, Exhaust Gas Temp. Sensors and O2 sensors are properly connected, at this point I dont know if replace both combi valves and purge valve as well, those are the only ones I haven't replaced yet. MAFs are new too, but harness wires seems to be worn out and starting to peel, ¿Maybe replacing the harness will solve it?
The vehicle worked properly several hours after throttle body recalibration and new diaphragm, then I re scanned both ECUs for codes and found P03XX, I cleared those codes and as soon as I clear the codes and turn on the vehicle again it starts idling erratically for a while and this god damned P2279 code shows instantly.
¿Any ideas?

 

Hello @Jurgeenh Borbon ,
Please post pictures and part numbers of the PCV you replaced.

Johnny

 

Hello Johnny

*First image is a 07C103474P for Bank 1, I replaced the whole assembly, I ordered this exact part.
*Second image is the Dorman kit I bought to replace the diaphragm in Bank 2 PCV.
*Third image is the original diaphragm in any of both PCVs, both were in the same condition.
*Fourth image shows the condition of the wiring from MAF harness (This is why I'm thinking to replace the harness).
*Fifth is the codes I just erased (ambient temp. sensor is because the bumper is removed out of vehicle and there attached is that temp sensor).

 

@Jurgeenh Borbon ,
Thank you for the pictures.

As to that MAF wiring/plug, yes, definitely 100% in need of replacement, seeing the condition of those wires, I would be concerned about the condition of the O2 sensor wiring, as well as the EGT sensor wiring, possibly even checking the wiring condition and pins at both ECU'S.

BUT, being that you have P0134 for the O2, did you check the fuse for said O2 sensor, I do not know the year of your vehicle, so, prior to 2007 the fuse is the 25 amp F13 fuse in the E-Box in the engine compartment, BUT, this fuse is listed as being for both bank 1 & 2 O2's, whereas from 2007 the fuse for bank 1 O2 is a 15 amp fuse in position F9 in the same E-Box, and F13 becomes a 15 amp fuse for bank 2's O2.

Got a call... BBS.

Johnny

 

I replaced 3 out of 4 O2 sensors, the one I didn't replaced I believe is the same Bank 1 sensor 1 giving faults but im unsure, I have to check my records, I didn't find a suitable cross reference number for that specific one, all other are Bosch brand new, fortunately that specific sensor can be replaced by the right wheel arch, is right there accesible but before droping the power unit all sensors were completely functional with no codes whatsoever I just replaced them because the engine was already out of the vehicle. I will check today that fuse and let tou know.

 

I did as suggested, fuse #13 is good, I checked wiring and harness of O2 sensor and EGTS, all seems fine, also I cleaned them (again) with electrical connector cleaner in can.

 

Hello @Jurgeenh Borbon ,
I have to ask, is this your vehicle, or are you working on it for a customer, either way, what is the history of the vehicle, as you say vacuum lines repaired on the back of the engine and over the transmission, you also say new MAF's, yet the MAF you pictured is filthy, as is everything under the hood, it almost looks like a flood car, I would know, or this vehicle it is just driven in a extremely dusty area, please explain, as I am confused, if the engine and transmission were dropped, why wasn't the complete engine bay, along with the engine itself cleaned prior to install, and what is with all the yellow, red plastic tubing, along with copper tubing, and the assortment of non factory hoses and clamps ?

Also, being that you say now no vacuum when you remove the oil cap, that doesn't sound right, you should have a degree of vacuum, along with a brief idle change when removing the cap, you should also check the dip stick o-ring and tube it sits in for damage, another here some time ago found his vacuum leak to be the dip stick.

Worm gear clamps should never be used, as one can over tighten them and create damage, as a fellow member here found out, he had to drop the engine transmission package all over again, because the worm gear clamps cut right through the rubber hose, therefore resulting in vacuum leaks.

Johnny

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The vehicle is mine, I have several years owning this vehicle, I cleaned all the engine bay but I live in a desert, I have a ranch so just entering the main road towards the main house is a chipbase road, so thats why is so dusty. Those hoses in the back with different colors are the hoses with the N75 solenoids, I relocate these to have easy acces in the future since doesn't make sense remove an engine just to replace a 50 dollar solenoid, I mark them in different colors to identify the right fitting on them.

The engine has vacuum, but very low if you remove the oil cap. Before replacing both PCV the vaccum was very strong in the oil cap and oil dipstick, and the erratic idling got stabilized as soon as you remove the oil cap, right nowz with new PCV, it has a very soft vaccum and as soon you open the oil cap the idle becomes erratic, now seems normal to me like any other car I have owned before, but still showing after a while P2279.

All vacuum hoses were replaced and I used copper piping instead, and high temp silicone hoses made for vacuum systems, I vacuum test the system outside of the vehicle and once intalled in the firewall I re tested everyting, hold 20 InMg for hours, afther that I reinstalled the engine and did a smoke test, showing no leaks.

Edit: The yellow zip ties are a reminder on which hoses and wires needs to be disconnected to drop the power unit, this for faster and fluid work in the future.

 

I wanted to chime in on the Dorman OE Solution parts, I believe from my own experience, that if if is a Dorman OE Solutions part, then Dorman is sourcing it from the OE supplier to Bentley/VW. I bought Dorman Air Struts and they turned out to be the original VW struts.

 

That's interesting, I noticed the quality of the diaphragm and seems lower quality than the one I got at Flying Spares, of course, that one was 500 USD with all hoses, the Dorman diaphragm was just the diaphragm and a case which I didn't use.

 

@Jurgeenh Borbon ,
Thank you for the clarification, I applaud your relocation of the N75/N275 solenoids, I just said the same thing to @Camaz not more than 30 minutes ago, others have pulled the engine to replace same solenoid on bank 2, only to replace it in the same location, again, a great move on your part, as to the dusty engine compartment, damn... that poor car.

As to the vacuum leak code, how is everything at the rear of the vehicle, exhaust flap solenoids, and apparatus at the charcoal canister ?

Johnny

 

Unfortunately I can't do much for the dust, I wash this car every time I'm going to use it, but especially in this part of the year there are A LOT of sandstorms in Texas, and living in a rural area doesn't help much, but I like more the rural areas than city conglomerations. Anyway, that's a good question, my exhaust flaps were disconnected by a shop many years ago, and I didn't remind that until you mentioned here, I'll check that today, or maybe tomorrow.
¿How can I check the apparatusin the charcoal canister? I removed the purge valve and did a vacuum test and isn't holding vacuum, I can blow a small amount of air through it, I suppose I need a replacement for this too ¿Right?

 

@Jurgeenh Borbon
do you have photos of your mod to the vacuum lines on the back and over transmission? Can you share?

And do you have more detailed photos of the N75 replacement?