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Hi Everyone
I have owned my 2010 GT Speed for over 2 yrs now (58K when I bought it)
I have been working through our Bentley "known Defect" issues plus other required Maintenance as I now have 69k miles on the clock
I initially used Bentley St Pete to get the car roadworthy when I first bought it as, after checks, it required a new "Main Battery" and a new Air Compressor.- it ran ok after that but they found another 30k of work reqd !
Obviously great Service but next steps were too costly for an old car like mine
Since then I have been using a local Indy and have spent well over 10k with them (All new front Control Arms, 4 x new tires, 2 oil changes, all new spark plugs & coils, brake fluid change, fuel filter change, new MAF and a couple of smoke tests with attempts to repair my Vacum Issues) - the car ran ok for some time after but I have developed a new problem...
CEL On
Oily residue at exhaust (Running too rich on start up)
Idles stable at 500 RPM
Sounds too "throaty" on start up
Performance on Open Road is great
The reason for my post is that I am a bit dis-illusioned with my go to Indy as they are good at changing parts but I think not too good at Engine Diagnostics (their last smoke test was written up as "Inconclusive" - how can that be ? - it leaks or it does not !) - I have seen the "Part Changer" situation in many other posts also
I would like to get your opinions of your favorite Indy in the area (Reason why they are so good) - we may all learn something from your replies (Is there a "Wizzard" in our area ?) I would like to try another Indy - who will get the most number of recommendations from us ?
Once I get this issue fixed I have an Upholsterer lined up to strip out my saggy roof liner & refit it
While the roof liner is removed I plan to get a new (2nd hand) Upper Brake light as it has never worked since I bought the car - no alarm is showing so I am wondering if some has used the resistor trick to remove the alarm ?
Where is the resistor normally installed & could someone advise the fuse number / location for the Rear Brake Light or any tips to check operation before I replace it
BTW I would be interested to know if anyone has a working Brake Light for Sale ? - there is not much out there that I can find and it looks about $1250 for a new one
As to the CEL, we need a scan, if you do not have the Ross-Tech VCDS, I suggest that you purchase it, it will save you time and money chasing issues, one diagnostic appointment at the dealership will pay for the ROSS-TECH.
As to the throaty on startup, is that only on cold startup, or every time you start the engine, meaning, if you run it until up to temperature, then shut it down for say two minutes, then re-start it, does it do it again, or is it only on cold startup when the secondary air pumps are running, which then leads to, is the exhaust system stock ?
As to oily residue, is the engine consuming oil, is it definitely oil, or are you saying it is fuel, therfore way to rich, like black smoke rich, again, a scan and data would help at to the A/F ratio, stuck, leaking injectors, etc.
As to the inconclusive smoke test, I agree, it should have been a report of no leak, a leak, or it leaks over a period of time, meaning that the ball on the smoke machine never makes it to it's best reading, maybe close, but not all the way, they either should have seen smoke or not, even on a vacuum test, the HVAC field always says, if you can pull 500 microns, you don't have a leak, not true, I have pulled below 200 microns, and held, but during normal operation, I still had a leak, time for the dye, but we can't use dye in our vacuum lines, so someone just has to take their time, use a good machine, and prove a leak or not.
How long after the plugs coils MAF did the issue start ?
If you are still with me here 😁, let's talk about the high mount brake light.
As to a seperate fuse just for said light, no, there in no dedicated fuse for it, although, there are 4 fuses that supply power to the rear body control module located in the boot, one fuse (F59) is located in the driver's facia fuse box, the other three are located in the boot on the left side facing the boot, they are fuses F24, F26, and F42, now, if everything thing else is working, I don't believe that you have a fuse problem, more likely like you stated, a resistor installed to kill the warning on the dash, said resistor would be installed right at the plug for the CHMSL, said plug in as shown in my rebuild thread and pictured below, accessible by dropping the headliner a bit, and a side trim.
As to you installing a new or used light, the new one from the dealership cost me $619.71 plus a $21.63 surcharge for using my debit card, yes, seriously, a surcharge... If you want new, I will price it for you tomorrow at my cost, and see what drop shipping to you would be, so either post or pm your zip code if you want.
The next issue with the light is, your light most likely has the flat ribbon cable as factory, whereas the new unit from the Bentley dealership has the standard 2 piece cable with red and black as shown, but, it also has connection plug/socket that in no way will go through the butyl caulk between the glass and the body, so I decided to drill a small hole as pictured, remove the wires/pins from the plug, fish wires through the hole, then reassemble the plug and wires on the inside of the vehicle, I know others have worked the wires between the glass and body, but I wasn't taking that chance, I had already cracked my spare glass from the parts vehicle..
If you have some pictures of the light, please post them, does it have any cracks ?
Johnny
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CHMSL PICTURES.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Apr 10, 2024 at 10:45 AM.
