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I started driving my 06 CGT after winter storage and the Check Engine Light came on. Before I parked it in my garage, I filled it with ethanol free gas and one bottle of Techtron gas treatment before parking it in October. I did start it about once a month and took it for a spin on dry sunny days. I never saw the CEL until I went to drive it in mid April. I also had it on a Ctek maintainer all winter.
Before I hook up the Ross-Tech I was wondering if the fuel change and or additive could be causing the CEL to come on. If it is possible, I could just use up this tank of gas and refill it and see what happens.
Well I ran the scan and got the following error codes.
I was thinking the CEL was caused by the exhaust gas temp sensor shorting out on bank 1. Could that be correct? I removed the filter box on the passenger side and the wiring looked in good shape. I guess I need to replace the sensor. Removing the sensor looks like quite a job due to the tight quarters. In my research it looks like there is a risk of snapping the sensor if it is frozen to the exhaust manifold. Does anybody have any tips? I saw that induction heaters may help loosen the sensor.
Could the CEL be on because of the misfires? They do say MIL ON after them. Could the misfires be a result of the gas?
Does anybody know what the "check DTC memory of ECU" means?;;Sorry for all the questions but I am a rookie when using the Ross-Tech.
just erase all error codes, and drive the car, make sure this is longer drive, where the car will get good temp;
and go on a highway to make some more aggressive drive also;
after that do the scan again, paste it here, then the community can help / we can start disputes.
Hello @Bigdog63 ,
If you clear the codes, and you still have a mis-fire, I do not recommend any hard acceleration, as mis-fires under hard acceleration will overheat your catalytic converter/s.
As to your question of what "check DTC memory of ECU number 2" means, the w12 has 2 ecu's, master and slave, you have already read ecu number one at address 1, ecu number 2 is at address 11, you can do a full auto scan, or check each module individually, but best for you to do an auto scan for now.
As to EGT sensor fault, you can see the link below to the thread here on 6Speed, go to post number 8 for the board replacement, wherein, only the board is replaced, the probe is never removed, furthermore, some have only re-soldered the 5 connection points on the board itself, therefore no replacement board needed, as just a loose connection at solder points.
If a board is needed, sid motorsport in Poland has them at $40 usd each.
Good news. I took Beatrice (B for short) out for an extended spin today as recommended by Sazam. When I initially started the car it felt like I had a rough idle. I cleared all the codes and went for a ride. When I got home I noticed that the idle was a lot smoother. I scanned the car again and the misfire codes were gone but the CEL was still on. Needless to say I was a little disappointed. I then scrolled down to address 11 and saw that a Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected Fault was still present with MIL ON next to it. I remember you telling someone else that sometimes you need to open up the specific address to delete the code, I did that on address 11 and as soon as I cleared the fault the CEL went off.
The exhaust temp bank 1 fault also disappeared when I rescanned the engine after the drive.
Do you recommend that I keep an eye on the Exhaust Temp sensor? I guess it does not cause any light to come on so should I run the VDCS more often?
I am pumped. The Ross-Tech just paid for itself as I don't need to visit the mechanic.
May I ask, when you say you cleared fault codes the first time, was that with the "clear all" tab, I am thinking it is, and that you just didn't clear address 1, that's why I say, I go into each and every address one by one to check and clear, why the "clear all" doesn't catch every fault for clearing, I don't know why, as the auto scan seems to catch all fault codes when reading.
As to your EGT sensor fault with "shorted to ground", I would check the wiring in the vicinity across the valve cover, it's most likely temperature related to the engine compartment, or it may be a solder point inside the box, I have the same issue right now, maybe this weekend I will solder the 5 points, just haven't had the time with my recovering and my Range Rover giving me a whopper of an electrical fault for over 3 weeks, I think my B misses me, I haven't driven her since I picked up the RR December 2023... I think it's time.
Johnny,
I did use the clear all when I first cleared the faults. It is interesting to note that address 01 had a fault to check the memory of ECU 2, but there was no MIL ON note. When I went to address 11 it had a fault of Multiple Cylinder Misfire with a MIL ON note. My guess is the fault in address 11 was the one that caused the CEL to be on. I didn't run another scan after the CEL went off. I went and grabbed a beer. I will run it again tomorrow and hopefully both the faults in address 01 and address 11 will be gone.
I agree it is time. She is too pretty to let her sit.
Well that excitement was short lived. I started B again today to run the scan and she had a rough idol. I hooked up the VDCS again and rescanned. The Exhaust Gas Temp Bank 1 fault and the misfire faults all came back but no CEL. The rough idle lasted a few minutes then go better. When I took her for a spin yesterday and returned home the idle was fine. It is interesting to note that all the misfires and the temp sensor are on the passenger (R) side. It is hard to believe that all 6 plugs, coils, wires are bad at the same time. I was wondering if it is a vacuum leak but wouldn't the issue be there all the time if it was? Here is the scan results from today: Yesterdays is above.
Many times vacuum leaks are the culprit of misfires and idle issues regarding our Bentleys. A smoke test is highly recommended before throwing parts at the problem. The 2006 GT's fortunately don't require engine out to replace the plastic lines. Removal of the stearing rack will gain access to the vacuum lines. An internet search of smoke testing a Bentley Continental will reveal several YouTube videos.
After erasing the fault codes and [insadentally] the fuel trim mapping the ECU compinsated at first for the lean mixture. As the ECU re-established the proper fuel trims the requested fuel trims were out of spec and the fault codes returned.
vacuum - maybe, interesting is the missfires are on all and only bank1 cylinders :/ smth like electric/electronics issue
Thanks guys. If it were a vacuum issue wouldn’t it be there all the time? When I got back from the test drive it was idling perfectly with no misfires on the scan.
Thanks guys. If it were a vacuum issue wouldn’t it be there all the time? When I got back from the test drive it was idling perfectly with no misfires on the scan.
@Bigdog63 ,
A vacuum leak could be temperature related, depending on what is actually leaking, if it is at all, a cracked plastic line is not going to change drastically with temperature, as when they crack, they crack wide open, and do not close back up, the rubber hoses connected to these line could seal with temperature, as the same with the MAF seal down the the turbo inlet funnel, so a smoke test as previously stated by 1eapplebaum.
But, I am thinking as Sazam said, and your EGT sensor fault kind of leads me that way, I have the same issue right now, EGT fault, and I have experienced mis-fires on the same bank with said EGT fault, it comes and goes in warmer weather, and me really leaning into the throttle, wasn't an issue in cold winter, if you Google EGT fault causing mis-fires, the AI answer will say no, a EGT fault does not cause mis-fires, yet, if you read on to the results, you will find that people on Audiworld actually say that yes, the EGT fault caused mis-fires on their vehicles, the consensus is that the ecu sees the fault, then gives a rich fuel mixture to the faulty bank to protect the engine from lean and mean, therefore a rich mixture causes mis-fires, and being you have the same EGT fault again, I would most likely start there, on my GT, I am just going to open up the box and re-solder the 5 points on the board to start, that's a simple enough task to perform to tie down the cause.
Sorry for the long post, I just like to speak it out.
I will add, these EGT sensors really are crap, or, the engineer that decided to mount an electronic element to the heat soaked valve cover wasn't too bright...
Your vehicle has 28k, and it has the EGT fault, the 2011 Supersports engine I installed only had 11K miles, and in the few thousands of miles, it has developed the same fault, that's truly ridiculous, I will try the re-soldering, but if it fails again, I may relocate it somewhere else off of the engine.
