To anyone who did this and changed battery without hooking the car up to a battery tender...exactly what would you lose and does anything need to be "coded" by the stealership?

Would hooking up the car in a CTEK batter tender keep enough power on the car while the car battery is being replaced?

 

Thanks for the tutorial, would be great to see how to replace the other battery where ever it is

 

I did mine without it hooked up to power and nothing happened

 

to avoid having to "reset" things after the battery changeout, why not do it with the engine running ?? I have read about people using a battery tender to accomplish this, but they only put out milliamps which I don't be enough to maintain these systems during changeout.

 

my dog interrupted me during my post...sorry for the bad English.

 

Reviving this thread from the dead. I was attempting to do this a few days ago and successfully got the bracket bolt towards the center of the car off, but the bolt near the door is stripped - probably from the last PO attempting to change this. The result is that the 10 mm triple square drive won't catch, and it seems to be torqued down really tight too, so that a vice grip won't work (also it's fairly tight in there with very little clearance)

I purchased a set of screw extractors to try and drill this out, but this won't work either - the bits are simply not long enough to drill deep enough into the bolt.

Anyone have any other suggestions to get this bolt out? Can it be accessed from underneath the car? Could i try dremel a slot in the bolt head and then try unscrew it that way?

 

Is there a date code on the OEM battery somewhere or if there's not an obvious month/year sticker, does that mean it's the original?

Thanks.