Ciaka,

That sounds reasonable, but you are in uncharted territory. I briefly checked the provided part number you gave here and it look like a Denso Refurbished unit. Not a Denso original or Porsche (Denso) OEM. If that is the case, then they might have just messed up the wiring color code and it is meaningless.

Before you swap anything, did you check with a multimeter? I would check continuity and ohm resistance to try to match up leads on both compressors. Then if needed, try to swap it out.

Can you just remove the entire cutoff switch and port it over?

 

FWIW, Amazon does not seem to think that Denso 471-1580 is the right AC Compressor for an 05 Cayenne...

 

the 471-1580 comes in three flavors. 471-1580 RC is reman unit.
The 471-1580 NA is a new one. 471-1580 NC is oem new unit (what I got).
I called a couple different places about the denso unit I have and tried to get more info. Each (buyautoparts, discountacparts) and all confirmed fit for the 05 CTT.
As stated, the compressor fits. The only question is electrical connection.
I have found in other forums of people doing that routinely, especially when parts for makes/models get updated. Changing connector and thats it.

I will measure impedence on both units to see how they match up.

 

did and the old one fluctuates between 11.4 and 11.5 ohms.
New one is at 11.5 ohms sometimes going to 11.6 ohms.
Differences are due to me holding probes I am sure.

so?

 

Ciaka,

Seems fine to me. Your call though.. this the chance we all take if we do not buy parts directly from a Porsche dealer.

 

well, i am taking chance. swapped connector altready. putting drive belt on .

still have to find drier location though. need help here.

 

See attached, it's integrated into the condenser.

 

That is a better picture than I have. Ciaka, you have PM.

 

in the pic from spooltime, just under the heading condenser, does the drier go into the black tube on the left side of the condenser (looking at the pic left side)?
Thanks.
The drier I received looks just like this but in white container.

Thinking of doing drier replace just before going to the mechanic, so they can flush/seal(pull vacuum for leaks), check all components for function, then refill with 134a.
If I replace now, it will start to pull moisture out of the air and may need to be replaced again. Jul 4 coming up tomorrow, so hoping to go to the shop Fri/sat if possible.

Thanks for all your help. have ac compressor diy and will have drier diy too. the drive belt diy that exists on renntech is what I used for taking the belt off.

 

From the workshop manual, it looks like it fits in the passenger side of the condenser (which is consistent with the other thing I attached, which says it's on the right side (i.e., passenger side) of the condenser). Hope this helps.

 

ciaka- how did everything go over the weekend?

 

...all went well.
Will create DIYs when I have time (work killing me now).
parts worked fine and fit fine too.
Will update when time is available. Thanks.

 

Hi Ciaka,

Looking at the latest reply, seems like you've done everything by yourself. I'm sort of in the same shoe, except that right now, I just want to recharge my freon and see if that does the work, and if it fails, I will know the compressor has failed for sure.

Do you have any easy instructions for recharging the freon? I looked up on youtube, a lot of them are for other cars, and I read from somewhere that for cayenne, it's somewhat special. I already bought a can of freon from autozone that you can connect to the low pressure port, is this all I need?

Thanks,
Steve

 

Hi. Looks like you are in the boat of determining if your ac system is shut down due to no refrigerant (which would imply leak somewhere in the system).
Since ac coolant has leaked out somehow, it will be best to determine where the leak is. Some places are easier to see while others are more difficult.
You can inject some ac coolant with dye in it, to look for leaks with UV light. Helps a lot.
Assuming you located your leak and fixed, then you should be good to go to do below stuff.
Common places (easy to fix) where leaks can happen are:
- hi/low side service valves
- compressor bad - ac coolant leaking out of it
- various seals at piping junctions, or junctions to/from compressor or dryer
Uncommon:
- hi/low side metal piping damaged for some reason
- condenser unit



If you have service manual, it will help you a lot.

IMO, what you want to do is find the chart in the manual, showing plot of refrigerant needed (aka pressure inside system) versus ambient temperature during the work.
Depending on how hot it is outside, you need to put in more or less of the refrigerant into the system.

Some things to look for as possible clues of low refrigerant in system:
- obvious one first - ac on but not cold
- in multilane systems, one side has cold air while other side blows not cold (although sometimes it may be due to bad servomotors that open flaps to control air mixing for temp control).
- your AC does not come on at all
- when AC on, there is no water dripping out of bottom of car (multi zone systems would have puddle under passenger side, as well as in back, on driver side near exhaust pipe)


To get recharge, you would need a set of gauges for hi/low sides.
Need the chart to tell you how much you need to put in not to overload system

Once you have above, turn on AC full blast with recirculation turned on.
Put in a thermometer of some sort and attach to one of the center vents (I used masking tape to tape it to the vent so it gives me accurate reading real time).
Close all windows in car.
Let car warm up to operating temperature.
Attach AC gauges to hi and low sides (make sure gauges are closed).
attach refrigerant to middle (yellow) hose, but keep gauges closed.
Observe the pressure reading on hi and low sides, then compare to chart.
IMPORTANT: Purge the ac gauges to get rid of trapped air in hoses before starting to put refrigerant in. This is done with relief valve in center of ac gauges, or if not available, loosening the yellow host fitting a bit to let air and some coolant escape to make sure no air is trapped.
Then, you are going to have the refrigerant can inverted upside down and then slowly open the low side valve (MEANING SLOWLY), and over time allow refrigerant to be sucked into the system. Meanwhile you continue to monitor the gauges for pressure. Assuming you repaired whatever leak you had, AC compressor will start cycling (you will hear). Once you reach hi side pressure indicated in chart and your current conditions, close the valves, detach the hoses and you should be done.

IMPORTANT: when attaching gauges, DO NOT try to screw them in all the way in. Some gauges will damage your hi and low side valves, making refrigerant leak out. Then over time you will be back to same low ac coolant condition and will have to replace the valves. So when screwing the gauges on, be gentle and do not go all the way in, only until you know you have solid connection.
Also, if you are sure your system was unpressurized for some time, you will need to replace dryer (located on passenger side, on side of radiator - vertical tube module you need to buy to replace, that has the desiccant in it for removing moisture from system).

 

still have not posted the pics. During the swapping it was hot and long, and after that I lost inclination to complete formulation of the DYI. I will see if at some point I can locate the pics and annotate/post for others.

One thing to note is that the compressor for these cars operates at all times. So if you replace the compressor and start the motor, you will ruin the compressor within just a few seconds, as they are not intended to be running dry. Must have refrigerant+oil added before starting initially.