Porsche Cayenne S 2008 - BC Coilover Install with Swift Springs

I have decided to post a new thread for the BC's with Swift Springs and all the other threads are without Swifts, and don't want UN-related info, settings, tech talk, reports to be construed as the same...

ok

Just Installed the Bc Coilovers with Swift springs

After much tinkering and adjusting I have the install down with many photo's , tips n tricks that I will post

The swift springs sure soak up the bumps, yet are firm, they are a fantastic upgrade!

Reading up on all the stock black BC spring settings, the firmest setting I found from another CS drivers setting was: 9 front, 11 back (from full stiff), this was my first dampening setting with the swift springs (the swift springs are same rates as the stock BC springs).

Many people have been setting dampening WAY to soft and getting bounce especially on rebound ...like 11f/13r and end up spending days under the vehicle getting it right

For every 1 click stiffer on BC Coilovers - Rebound is reduced THREE times!. The Tech guys at BC Racing are always avail for questions

Well 9/11 settings with swifts were lovely...like a Bentley, hitting big bumps was amazing, the ride was good with 1-2 people and a tad of bounce with 3-4 people, their was more bounce in the rear, and a tad front...I was thinking of going 9/10, but my next setting was...

Next 8 front, 10 rear FIRMER! 'but better' , more control in turns firm ride but well inside harsh. the CS feels awesome on the highway fast, hard turns, and getting on it. I feel I can push the CS harder and its very grounded

My lowered settings were front... (length of strut)
11 1/4 inches from top of strut, to top of lower adjustment ring - with 8 threads of shock body between lower and upper adjustment rings. I have approx 6 mill pre-load front, 5 mill rear. Pre-load and ride height settings were finally adjusted after two weeks 100 miles driving.


Rear: 52 threads between the two adjustment rings I used a drawing pencil with a fine lead tip to count the threads, or a fine point instrument will work well

These adjustments are 'Bang On' for a lowered ride but not too low, or the *** will look getto...I also took in mind that too low will void any possible alignment away from too negative camber. also rear is approx 1/2 inch higher than the front for some rake/passengers and a reasonable tow hitch height

The springs did settle front appeared a bit, however the rear settled more for some reason, so I checked the pre-load in case the springs had gotten shorter. I was very fussy with strut height measuring the threads, as well as overall length, as pre-load can +/- half a thread

I will post the pic's and steps I took soon ...I did this whole job in my driveway with the stock porsche jack and a floor jack, stands with some plastic ramps

 

I had the alignment done by Weber Wheel Alignment of West Palm Beach

They do all the racers, jacked up truckers, Rollers, ferarris etc

Webber don't do factory spec's as there is 'to wide a range' of adjustment

Alignment was done with just over 1/2 tank of fuel to get decent weight on the back end

Basically the older technician with 20+ years of exp did the job

Result was -0.5 deg of negative camber all around, plus all the other alignment adjustments like toe,caster etc that were all adjusted as well

I did not get a printout however for $265 they said it came out perfect ...'especially since I lowered' the car

The steering feels a little lighter now its adjusted, but not as light as stock with the stock springs (have power assist), which was airy at low speeds or fake feeling...now its more natural with power assist.

I will post measurements from the top of each wheel arch to the top of the rim of the lowered setting on a flat surface (very important - FLAT!)

I am running 20 inch Tech Art wheels 275/45/20 on all 4 wheels

I will say today that I really like my dampening settings 8f/10r from full stiff, and won't go softer. My tire pressure is 40psi front 42psi rear, perhaps I will drop 1-2psi

I will keep a eye on the tire wear and 'may' lower the front and rear 1 full turn of the coilover (basically 1 thread) very minimal prob 1/16 inch lower, in order to get 'more' negative camber, as the CS drives on rails with negative camber, and I will take more of it if the tire wear allows it...if not then up a tad.

I think -0.5 negative camber is close to the stock -0.35 max setting (however I cant confirm if -0.35 applies to a CS 2008 geometry - chime in if you know the CS 2008 stock alignment spec's)

I just drive home from the Alignment shop so I cant really report on cornering yet...will post some more later

edit: tested: yes it corners VERY well---Wow it turns flat and fast...awesome turning ability!!!!

Next will be some GTS sways...

My odometer is 12,000 miles so all my bushings are tight

P>S before you get out from underneath squirt WD40 on all the nuts/bushings that your alignment guy is going to work on...nice to undo nuts and perhaps the dry bushings being turned are more favorable to alignment reading specs

My wife's comment pre-coilovers was (after driving a BMW E46 M3 for 5 years which we still have for long journey i95 road blasting) ..."Do something about it"

Her comment after BC/Swifts/Alignment "Finally...its drives like a Car!"

In other words the wallowing bouncy pig has GONE!...Solid Grounded, Stable, Flat Turning, Performance is here...its feels A LOT safer! as less harsh on bumps than stock!...yet very firm...doesn't say much for stock!

Its all about the Swift springs...a $350 additional cost...DONT DO ANY COILOVER WITHOUT THEM PERIOD!!!!. They make the BC's magic, despite the shorter travel...but who needs so much travel, especially if your lowered and bouncing into excessive negative camber causing mega tire wear.

With Swifts I feel you can dial in 1 more setting Firmer on the dampening, and still get a smoother ride over bumps than the stock BC springs, plus be more level,grounded, firmer. I don't think I will ever drive on 'regular steel springs EVER AGAIN!, They are unresponsive to road conditions, and smaller impacts on the suspension, Swifts soak up EVERYTHING and you feel more connected with the road

Think I will get 285/40/20 next as I will be pushing the rubber hard

Will post pic's soon...

 

Front strut my lowered setting is 11 1/4 inches from top of BC coilover mount plate to top of lower adjustment ring. Also there is 8 threads on the shock body between rings. I feel this is probably the 'near lowest' setting to get -.05 deg negative camber.

 

Handy trick to hold up the spacers (needed for Cayenne as the bolts do not have enough thread tapped from factory to tighten the plate up to the chassi)
I used Cat5 cable wire wrapped twice...as they will fall down and roll away!.
Also I market the top of the shock mount plate which way was hard or soft with a sharpie marker pen, so I can get my fingers in there to adjust again without full removal...just the upper bolts backed off will allow enough room to get the dampening settings access. Rear...SORRY full removal required...

 

Make Sure you undo the lower sway link first to take tension of the other bolts...leave it off and install the other side the finally come back to it to re-tension the sway's. This is your first step

 

Get some white paint (or your wife's nail polish!) mark the shock body so you can have a reference on how many turns you turn the shock body and its 'exact position'

 

Porsche bolts are slightly tapered to the head so robots can mount on them fast...in other words they are cast crap that will not hold worn tools...get new or decent sockets that match the bold head octagon shape, also a ring spanner is key.
I would advise some light gloves to save some knuckles if you get a tool slip...the scar and black fingernails don't look good at dinner! YOU NEED GLOVES on porsche bolts!!!!

 

Some Tools 12mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm 3/8 rachet, 1/2 inch rachet, puller Alan keys. Dont undo your wheels with the factory porsche tire iron...its rough and will scar your inner mag wheel bolt holes...use a socket

 

Get a cheap puller to 'snap' out this upper control arm bushing. apply good pressure then tap with a hammer to release it...it pops out with a snap...not a bang or extreme crazy. Also leave a few bolts in a few threads holding up the strut at the top of the chassi so it wont drop, once you get this out of the way carefull un-clip the brake lines from their holders and rotate the strut out without going aggressive on removal...it has a way to remove out...find or take a break and get a glass of water

 

On install there is a alan key to stop the top turning before it seats, so use a ring spanner to tughten the nut and the alan to hold the shaft

 

Remember when you are working without a full lift and using jack always put chocks in the wheels (brick), brakes on, large wood pad under the CS jack (2x10 wood) to spread the weight on the small ground plate.

Also beware the Porsche jack fully extended it becomes wobbly and my lean/fall get more blocks of wood under it rather than extend fully PLEASE! Also use jack stands / back up jack NEVER ATTEMPT THIS WITH ONE JACK ONLY. RAMPS HELP TOO

 

initial step...take the spring off the sway to help undo the bolts initially...little jack save some difficult bolt removal...sorry my pic's are out of order

 

WD40 these bolts as the are stubborn due to road weathering...actually all bolts. Also I used marine grease on the bolts and longer bolt shafts to install.
I also recommend using lubricant/grease on the shock body threads, as you will be under there doing a lot of adjustment...so easy nut/bolt/shock body turning will make it A LOT easier!
Buy a new can of WD40 and spray everything that connects, turns, threads

 

You can install the rear shocks at stock strut length then adjust the ride height later...or install the BC Coilover being shorter and jack up the linkage to get your mounting bolt in..yes grease the bolt and bolt shaft, in case you have to remove the shock to change dampening later. Remember you will more than likely undo every bolt you tighten, so get a very good grease lubricant to make the nut/bolt threads be nice to turn easy for next time adjustments.

 

Rear shock installed