That has happened to me a few times. 9 out of 10 times if you look VERY closely, you can see a part number printed on them. I can also try to look them up, but turbocharged cars have an excessive amount of tubing, so it can be difficult to locate in the parts catalog.

I recommend replacing the hoses with OEM parts since any small air leaks can create issues for your air management sensors. This may result in rough idling, hesitation, and/or check engine lights.

 

Yes it's normal. If you have a solid relationship with your service writer he/she will usually be more open with information. If they don't know you personally it probably won't happen. You, and I, probably wouldn't give out information to strangers in person, let alone over the phone. It's just smart business.

 

Absolutely Renaissance Man,
$180 for those 2 frail tubes, but well spent. No way do I want to deal with idle, throttle, or any other engine issues down the road by taping these things up.

I wasn't able to pressurize the cooling system using a rented pressure tester, as none of the adapters fit. Any other quick options to get this done, or will I need to buy the Cayenne-specific adapter online?

 

I bought the UView Airlift Coolant Leak/Purge tool. It is made for modern cars that do not have typical radiator caps installed on the radiator. It is made for cars that have separate reservoirs. I have not used it yet, but it came highly recommended.

You can for a reasonable price with overnight shipping.

You may want to contact the manufacturer to ask them if you will have any issues using it. Without doing it before, I would bet that this is what you need.

 

Yes this is what ECS used in their DIY, ordered one and on its way, thanks for the link. When I get the parts in I'll be sure to let you all know where the leak is coming from for future references. Cheers!

 

Cool - good to hear. I am sure the community will appreciate the update when you pin down the leak. Good luck!

 

Subscribed!

 

After dealing with the Amazon seller of the UView kit while it got "lost" for 2 weeks in shipment, I finally got the kit in and hooked it up to my reservoir, and can't find the leak! I purge the system to about 22-24 psi of vacuum, the radiator hoses pinch like they're supposed to, but no coolant leaks and can't hear where the system is losing pressure! As soon as I close the vacuum from the air compressor, it loses pressure very rapidly, so this must be a very large leak. No clue what to do next, I'm pretty invested in doing the fix myself but at this point I might have to cut my losses and get it towed to a shop.

Anybody have any suggestions?

 

UPDATE:

The source of the leak was the coolant reservoir, it had a crack on the bottom of the tank. The reason I couldn't see the leak when doing a pressure test is because it was leaking underneath the heat shield straight down. All the coolant that was sitting in the starter area was from when the previous owner had the coolant pipes replaced.

 

How hard was the tank to replace? I may do mine next time I am working on it!

 

I let the dealer do it, I towed it in since I couldn't find the leak. They already had me for $180 to assess the problem, so I just let them use that towards the fix. Charged 2 hours of labor on their end, could've probably done it in less than 1. I couldn't see any mounting areas around the reservoir, I think there's just a couple of bolts and the hoses and you should be able to get it off/replace it. ECS sells the OEM tank for less than half what they charged me for mine too, FYI.

They wanted another $1000 to install my starter and put on the upper intake and reattach the coil packs, etc. "Nah I think I'll just tow it back to my house and DIY in 3-4 hours, thanks though."

 

Glad to hear! Thanks for updating your thread. Good call on the reassembly yourself.

 

Figure I will make my first post a good one. I am going through the same issue right now. Just playing the waiting game for UPS to show up with the part. My tank split on the back side closest to the firewall where the 2 parts of the tank are fused together to make a "seal".

Changing out the coolant tank is easy. All you have to do is remove the passenger headlight. Then take a 16mm socket w/ many extensions, and remove the bolt on the torque arm and the bolt on the bottom of the arm that ties into the suspension. Then you just swing the torque arm up and disconnect the hoses and electrical bits from the tank and just reverse it back in.

The only advice I can give for anyone doing this job is to wear a glove that provides protection, you will end up slicing a finger while inside of the headlight housing.

And finally parts just ran a total of $75.

 

Good to know, thanks!

 

Sounds like the "T" in the back of the engine. It's a nightmare to do, but is possible. The old rubber won't want to come off the metal pipe. Use a razor blade to cut the old hose off. Good luck.