Secondary air injection pump replace/fix - DIY
#16
I'm in dusty, hot Tucson. 1st secondary air pump just failed at 98K miles on my 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I did not replace the passenger side yet. No codes. It was tough using two 2 foot ratchet extensions like chop sticks to get the metal gasket and the valve in place on the driver's side. I hope it will go easier when the bank 1 side fails. At first I just replaced the air pump, but ALL the broken fins from the old pump lodged into the plastic tubing going back up into the new pump. I had no more than 1-2mm of space open in the plastic tube, but I'm grateful they all got stuck in there so my new pump was not damaged. Just quite dusty from the black particulates. It was a strange thing to see. If the exhaust is pulsing air out of the tube from the manifold, then it is the valve. I had to get a new one. Thanks so much for that how-to. I'm really grateful. Thanks!
#17
I understand this cannot be removed without throwing a cel. Assuming a good pump motor with broken fins and clogged valve. Could you remove fins and let the motor run but not pump air, block off the hose to valve and call it a day. This is assuming the system doesn't have a sensor to detect airflow.
#19
The two modes of failure I have seen with the SAI are :
The filter foam dry rots and gets sucked into the fan blades causing them to clog/break.
The egr valves get carbon deposits and the plunger/piston/rod won't allow stroke or the actual valve seat will not seal due to deposits or the plungers inability to see full travel also preventing a seal.
The EGR's are expensive. You can take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and make small cuts in the crimped cap to unfold it and disassemble. There is a nitrile diaphragm under the cap. After cleaning it can be reinstalled and crimped back on.
Part of preventative maintainence should be to remove the SAI pump cover caps and replace the filter foam if it is dry rot.
The filter foam dry rots and gets sucked into the fan blades causing them to clog/break.
The egr valves get carbon deposits and the plunger/piston/rod won't allow stroke or the actual valve seat will not seal due to deposits or the plungers inability to see full travel also preventing a seal.
The EGR's are expensive. You can take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and make small cuts in the crimped cap to unfold it and disassemble. There is a nitrile diaphragm under the cap. After cleaning it can be reinstalled and crimped back on.
Part of preventative maintainence should be to remove the SAI pump cover caps and replace the filter foam if it is dry rot.
#20
Hey hows it going? Im trying to do bank 1 pump and valve on my 2005 cayenne turbo and I can't get the pictures you posted to enlarge without distorting the words. Id much appreciate if you still had them in a format I could enlarge. I know hey are old but this is the best DIY i have seen for this job yet. Thanks
#22
Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected.
The following code description is seen:
Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
What is wrong:
From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).
The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.
Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.
NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.
Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.
Hope this helps someone make the repair.
Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump). The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.
Have fun.
The following code description is seen:
Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light
What is wrong:
From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).
The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.
Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.
NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.
Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.
Hope this helps someone make the repair.
Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump). The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.
Have fun.
thx!
#23
got them on my laptop by right clicking
#24
Thanks for the DIY and pics. I go the driver side bank code a few weeks ago, only to find blades broken, foam disintegrated, and the fuse blown for the SAI pump. After cleaning the pump of fan blades, replacing the fuse, and using a vacuum to suck debri out of the rubber pipe to the valve (I checked with a boroscope), the pump was working again at least, but obviously not flowing enough as the code popped up again after clearing it. The valve was not stuck open at this time, as I had no exhaust pulses out the hose back into the pump.
i bought a new cheap ebay pump, which after one use trashed its fan blades, putting me back in the same situation. This time, the blades blocked open the valve,at least I thought, letting the exhaust back into the engine bay, it was easily heard and felt when I pulled the hose from the pump. Sounds like you have an exhaust leak under the hood. I temporarily plug it with an old screwdriver handle.
So I purchased a remote cable hose clamp tool, which made easy work of getting the hose clamp off of the SAI pipe to the valve. I looked in with the boroscope and found nothing obvious blocking it. This is all while the valve was still on the car. Didnt want to get underneath and remove the 2 E10 bolts yet to remove the valve itself for cleaning, as some of you have.
I took some intake valve cleaner I had laying around (CRC), sprayed into the open end of the valve, and then started it up, and that solved the problem, allowing it to close again.
My theory was, perhaps the valve wasnt getting worked enough since the original pump wasnt blowing enough air for some time, and for the one morning start that the new pump worked, it opened it briefly, and i got stuck, and the intake valve cleaner which has lubricant in it, freed it up.
So, try cleaning the valve from the topside, before removing it from the down pipe 1st, to potentially save some time!
i bought a new cheap ebay pump, which after one use trashed its fan blades, putting me back in the same situation. This time, the blades blocked open the valve,at least I thought, letting the exhaust back into the engine bay, it was easily heard and felt when I pulled the hose from the pump. Sounds like you have an exhaust leak under the hood. I temporarily plug it with an old screwdriver handle.
So I purchased a remote cable hose clamp tool, which made easy work of getting the hose clamp off of the SAI pipe to the valve. I looked in with the boroscope and found nothing obvious blocking it. This is all while the valve was still on the car. Didnt want to get underneath and remove the 2 E10 bolts yet to remove the valve itself for cleaning, as some of you have.
I took some intake valve cleaner I had laying around (CRC), sprayed into the open end of the valve, and then started it up, and that solved the problem, allowing it to close again.
My theory was, perhaps the valve wasnt getting worked enough since the original pump wasnt blowing enough air for some time, and for the one morning start that the new pump worked, it opened it briefly, and i got stuck, and the intake valve cleaner which has lubricant in it, freed it up.
So, try cleaning the valve from the topside, before removing it from the down pipe 1st, to potentially save some time!
Last edited by Corvetteboy6988; 08-16-2019 at 01:02 PM.
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